Maz

here´sanother red one on German ebay...say´s at the bottom he´ll ship international too http://cgi.ebay.de/Nissan-Fairlady-Z-Kyosho-Modellauto-1-18-/250688629054?pt=Spielzeugautos&hash=item3a5e34e93e :thumbup1:

SORTED! Sometimes I´m just dump :( Should have noticed that....checked all the injector connectors and one of them wasn´t on properly , pushed it all the way on and the engine is running 100% again......sorry for wasting your time there guys. :) Maz

Have you tried bypassing the FPCM ? That´s the thing that regulates the voltage to the fuel pump and by bypassing it you´d be giving the pump a constant 12 volt, then see if the same thing happens....that way you can eliminate the fuel pumpas a culprit if it then works, might also indicate a faulty FPCM. Maz

no pressure release when opening the filler cap can be something as simple as a faulty fuel tank pressure release valve. I have this on mine and have had for a while without any negative side effects.

"if so we tried fuel level new ecu bypassing the fuel pump ecu series 1 ptu series2 ptu checked cas and all injectors click in turn." You didn´t mention Fuel pump relay, but I´m assuming you have fuel pressure and that fuel is reaching the engine. Injectors are clicking.....have you checked the resistance of the injectors just to be sure as mine "clicked" still when they were not working properly, should get between 10-14 ohm resistance. you have fuel pressure and a spark at the cylinders, you´ve changed or tested the above and she´s still not starting...is that correct ? :)

I´´ll second that ...PTU

do you have fuel pressure ..as you´ve concentrated on the fuel delivery it would appear ?

series 1 or series 2 PTU ?

haven´t done a compression test yet...was hoping I didn´t have to go down that road, but I guess I will have to eventually. I think I´ll recheck everything over again, injectors, coil packs, CAS. TPS etc and see if I come up with anything. Cheers Joel :)

I´´m not sure that would work mate, the problem isn´t that drastic like losing a whole cylinder, which you would notice right away. It´s kind of hard to describe. when an injector goes the car sounds and drives like a tractor, this feels the same on idle and when pulling away but just nowhere near as bad...like 10% of that sound and feeling of running on 5 cylinders. Hardly noticable on idle from listening to it from the outside, if you didn´t know the car you might even think it always idles that way...but there´s a slight shaking and uneven idle :confused1:

Good point mate, I´ve got new coil pack connectors but haven´t checked the coil packs themselves. Is there a way of checking the coil packs or is it a matter of using a spare one and changing them one by one until you find out whether or not is was a coil pack ? Maz

had an issue with the car at the beginning of the week where it felt like it was running on 5 and a half cylinders and I suspected a faulty injector. Turned out injector No1 was on the blink. Changed the injector yesterday and it seems to have cured the problem, at least to 90% The problem is that I still have a slight hesitation and the feeling it´´s running on 5 and 3 quarter cylinders on idle and pulling away from the traffic lights. Onnce the car is moving and above 1500 rmp it drives fine. I measured all the injectors and they all read between 11.9 and 12.1 on resistance so they should be okay. does anyone have any idea what could be causing this ? Cheers Maz :)

and the 89 (90) model (at least US version) had nothing on the nose , and just had "Nissan" on the front right hand side of the bumper. :)

I have a series 2 PTU in the car for a while now with no problems at all. Is there any way to test the PTU without swapping it for another one ? :)

Cheers for that Berrica, but she does rev over 2500 with ease, it actually responds better when over 2500 rpm. I guess the best way to describe it would be that she responds and drives as though she were running on 5 and a half cylinders,,if that makes sense. :confused1: anyway..checked all the spark plugs and they´re all fine, as are the connectors. I´´ll check the injectors tomorrow and see what I get there.

I´ll do that once the engine cools down..cheers for that Paul. I should of however mentioned that the spark plugs (NGK´s) are only about 1000 k´´s old, as are the new coil pack connectors and new injector connectors. Changed out 2 injectors a few months back and she was running sweet ever since...until today :( Maz

Cheers Gary, my concern this morning was that it might fail. Then I pass the MOT and the car starts to die...things that make you go "hmmmmmm"

Went through the MOT (German equivalent ) today with no real problems, started the car to drive back home and it wasn´´t running right at all. Sounded and felt a little like when one of my injectors died recently, just not so drastic. alot of vibration on the gear stick and the car is only slightly sounding like a tractor, hesitates when accelerating from idle but runs fine when going over 2500 rpm although when you accelerate you can feel the power isn´t there although boost gauge shows full boost. Could this be another injector on it´´s way out or is there something else I can check ( when the engine cools down ) that might cause these symptoms. As always. any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Maz :)

Dutch ? German number plates there, D for Duesseldorf ( number plate ) about 20 -30 kms from me :)

seriously though...I think the only "differences" starts behind the front seats...that´´s where it differs..i.e parcel shelf instead of rear seats ...tank under the parcel shelf on a 2 seater...the plastic trim in the boot is different...different length would also mean longer drive shaft etc....but other than that I think it´´s all the same...but I´´ll gladly stand corrected :)

The SWB is Shorter than the LWB :tt2:

I thought stricly speaking white and black is not a "colour" ..so that excludes them :devil:..has to be grey then :thumbup:

I have a DIN set up myself...by far the best option in my opinion...but you didn´´t list that option :)

I think the dash mount looks the better of the two, if it´s fitted perfectly. What I don´t like is that you have to cut a bit of the dash out to mount it. So, from the two options you gave I´´d have to go with the pillar mount as it can be reversed to original again without having a big hole in the dash and having to change the whole dash.

Stumbled across this on the US ebay site,....I always thought they were dirt cheap as nobody wanted them...so this is a suprise:huh: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bose-in-dash-FM-AM-cassette-radio-Nissan-300ZX-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ250682626813QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo