Maz

not exactly at the same time, but within days of eathother

OEM gauge,, i also have a very high idle, but I don´t seem to have lost any power

Hi If I have a boost leak i.e boost gauge needle remains in the middle of the gauge, should I notice a considerable loss in power or any loss in power at all ? Maz

Hellraiser, Stu Thanks for the awesomely fast reply. I just went out to the garage and pulled the balance bar again. All 3 orings are in place and all the hoses are connected as they should be.

Hi Mention earlier in a thread that I had a problem with high idle. on Sunday I cleaned the TPS connector, CAS connector, pulled the balance bar and sprayed some WD 40 into the AAV This morning on the way into work I noticed that the Turbos were not working, or at least the boost gauge needle was smack in the middle of the dial, exactly the same as when you pull the hose off the balance bar to do the "pass emission test" trick. Are the two related , high idle and now loss of boost,...is it time for a boost leak check ? any advice greatly appreciated Maz

Hey z32bolt cheers for the reply would a vacuum leak cause the car to idle higher ? yes, my aircon was switched off.

Hi everyone, long time no "see" ( been working on my bike) Drove to Antwerp last weekend, only about 160 km from here. Didn´t thrash the car or anything as it´s a 120km limit there. when I started the car the next morning the cold idle was about 2000 rmp, dropping to around 1500 rpm when warm. I´ve: 1: disconnected the ECU for a while to no avail, 2: done an ECU diagnostic with a 55 result ( No errors) 3: Checked MAF and air filters 4: checked the ECU water temp sensor 5: disconnected the AAV and turned the base idle down, which brought the revs down to 1600rpm when cold and 1050 when warm. Throttle bodies were cleaned about 8 months ago, injectors are sound and the connectors new. The idle isn´t erratic or anything, just high, feels like the choke is permanently on. as always, any ideas greatly appreciated. Maz

*sigh* that´s what I thought , thanks for that guys, appreciate it . Maz

Hi everyone Does anyone know whether you should be able to turn the pulley on the air con compressor (pump) by hand once it has been removed and is lying on the workbench or is it really difficult, i.e doesn´t move even slightly ? As always, any help greatly appreciated. Maz

Smithy Are you sure mate ? reason I ask is because the guy mentioned that the ones he had left the "cut out" on the caliper was only 31mm and the two sets he had already sold were 35mm. I took my caliper off and actually measured the "cut out" for the disc and it measures 35mm wide. So if I took them with a 31mm "cut out" they wouldn´t have fitted over the discs,,,,or am I missing something here ? Maz

yep, just taken the caliper off and measured 35mm, so 31mm must be an N/A cheers Steams, much appreciated :) Maz

Just a follow up question: some info I got from a guy selling a refurbished caliper over here ( Germany) he says he had 3 sets of calipers and that the only difference he can see between the ones he already sold and the ones he still has for sale is that :The "opening" for the discs on the sets he sold were about 35-36mm wide and the ones he has left is only about 31mm wide" does that mean the set he has for offer is for an N/A ? Maz

Steams Spot on mate, Thanks for that :thumbup1: Maz

Hi I need a new front L/H side brake caliper for a 1989 Z32 SWB TT, is there anything I need to be aware of, i.e Auto caliper won´t fit manual, or NA doesn´t fit TT or not made of Aluminium from 199.... any help would as always be greatly appreciated. Maz

Just spotted this on the German Ebay site, Not mine, but might be of interest to someone as the seller states he/she will ship worldwide. http://www.ebay.de/itm/RC-1-10-Tamiya-TA-02-NISSAN-300ZX-IMSA-GTS-58144-Top-Raritat-Selten-RAR-/320839232659?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item4ab3822c93 :)

Hi everyone does anyone have any idea where I can get repair panels ( rear sill, rear arch ) for a shortie ? I can find them for a LWB but not for a SWB. any help as always greatly appreciated Maz

Just in case someone is after one: Just spotted this on Ebay for 60 Euro buy it now. http://cgi.ebay.de/Nissan-300ZX-Sonderanfertigung-/200636174720?pt=RC_Modellbau&hash=item2eb6d91180#ht_500wt_950 Btw, it`s not mine Maz :)

you need to use both parts...the rubber insert and the small metal plate. The metal plate keeps the injector firmly pushed down, without it the injector would have too much play as the rubber alone isn´t as resitant as the metal plate. The rubber insert with the hole in the center is basically there to give the top little "piston rod" part of the injector room to move up and down.....if that makes any sense :)

you´d need a piece that´s 1500mm x 1050mm, The bonnet is slightly longer than 1000mm it´s more like 1mtr and 4 to 5 cm to the outer corners. :)

so MJP doesn´t do them anymore. Do we know or have any contact to the "maker" as you put it jimmer ?

it´s green in colour, mounted on a small bracket along with something else :)

isn´t it behind the panel where the fuse box is, down in the footwell ?

Hi Has anyone come across a place that sells repair panels, or just sill repair panels for a SWB ? I´ve come across a few places and "spoke" to a few people that just do the sill repair panels for a LWB but no one seems to do the SWB. any tips or info as always greatly appreciated. Maz :o)

what do they charge for shipping, any idea ? reason I ask is I have seen and been quoted some horrific shipping charges from the US. :)

dead easy mate...did it myself a few months ago and was a bit scared about the plenium, but you really don´t need to take that much off. Be sure to spray around the injector with some WD40 and let it soak in over night. I would also recommend using an impact screw driver to loosen the screws on the injector. But seriously, bon´t worry about the dremel job it was way easier than I had anticipated. :o)