Maz

it´s kind of hard to tell the size...depends on how big the metal bin to the left is ..if it´s a full size bin then that is a big model.

That´s odd, it still had 9 days of bidding. although at that price I guess no one would have bid.....but it just "ended" ...perhaps took it off to put it up for a more sensible price.

On German eBay, (Not mine)way too expensive but interesting as I thought I knew all or at least most of the model 300zx´s available, but I never came across one in 1:4 scale. http://cgi.ebay.de/nissan-300zx-1-4-scale-grosse-yankee-/140415238577?cmd=ViewItem&pt=RC_Modellbau&h :)

you´re welcome Not too sure myself , at a guess Primary resistance is between ECU and PTU ( which amplifies the spark) Secondary resistance between PTU and coil packs Could also try this: Ignition coil and power transistor diagnostic: 1: Turn ignition switch “ON” 2: Start engine and wait at least 3 seconds (If engine does not run turn ignition to “START” for at least 5 seconds) 3: Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 5 seconds and then turn to “ON” 4: Perform diagnostic test mode II ( Self-diagnostic result) on ECU :)

Ignition coil : Primary resistance at 20 degrees Celcuis Approx: 0.7 ohm Secondary resistance at same temp 8 kilo ohm Injector : Resistance 10 - 14 Ohm I´d swap the PTU for a series 2 though mate and give that a go :)

Looks pretty cool ..if it were a track car ( modified for the track too ) but not as an every day drive.

slick 50 isn´t really the oil, it´s an additive that puts a ptfc ( teflon ) coating on the working parts, I used it in the engine of a Jeep I once had and it really worked well I have to say.....not sure I´d use it on the Z though...why though I don´t know. :)

mine did that with a faulty Temp sensor ( the one that goes to the ECU) :)

Fuel pump control module ? try a FPCM bypass and see if it works then .

might be easier if you could identify wich type of recaros were fitted to the Z. i.e Recaro SP-G´s or whichever manufacturer name was given to them and then search for the covers you need,

Welcome, nice looking ride and to answer the earlier question; not sure about back in the UK but over here in Germany the tint on the front side windows would be illegal i.e a bit too dark. but seeing as you´re in the UK I wait to stand corrected. :)

having both i.e the Z and a bike isn´t an option ?

I really hope it isn´t what I had on a previous car....car started perfect when cold or cooled down but once the engine was hot it wouldn´t. You name it, we tested or exchanged it...still no joy. long story short, I had a cracked piston ring that expanded under heat and when the engine was switched off would jam the piston and the engine wouldn´t turn over. went through 4 starter motors before discovering the problem. So I really hope it´s something a little more simple with yours mate, just a worse case scenario to bare in mind. Maz

The 2 seater must be different as I´ve had my fuel pump out about 10 times in the last months and " O ring" ? the pump is suspended in a rubber "holder" doesn´t go anywhere near the body of the car...or am I missing something here ?

The most obvious first, and you´ve probably already checked but what´s the oil level like?

Only 350z´s with a turbo ( Twin Turbo) that were actually manufactured by Nissan were the 350Z JGTC and the 350 Z Super GT, both using a VQ30DETT engine....and both of them race / track cars. Just thought I´d throw that in. :)

I don´t think they did, I read somewhere that they decreed that the seat had so many settings that you didn´t need an adjustable steering column. :)

Not mine, just thought someone might be interested http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300ZX-Z32-PARTS-Illuminating-rear-light-panel-/360257535209?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e105bce9 :) I like the bit about " tried and tested....think it lights up green" would have thought if he tested it he´d know what colour it is.

is it a rattle like something loose or is it more a squeeky rattle?..if that makes any sense

and don´t forget the fuel pump control module...i could write a book on that little sucker.

faulty temp sensor ? thinking the engine is too hot and overfueling to cool

Ade I have to say that mine did the same thing before dying, but then again the pump was "fighting" a positve pressure in the fuel tank as opposed to a negative pressure, I think that´s what killed mine. ( easy to check, just tape a small plastic bag around the square opening to the petrol cap, open the cap and see if the bag fills with air or the air is sucked out,or open the fuek filler cap when the car is running and listen if the whinning from the pump stops) even though the pump started a low pitched whine it still lasted a good 800- 1000km before dying completely so might be an idea to get a new one and at least have it on the shelf ready to go. If the pump does die and you buy a new one ( not second hand )I would personally go for the Walbro pump on an N/A ( I wasn´t happy with it on a TT ) but with a little modification to mount it, it is far cheaper than an OEM replacement and I´m sure it will do the job just as well. Maz

For those that don´t already have the book, I came across this: http://www.fairladyz32.com/downloads/images/enthusiast.pdf :)

"constantly making some noise" ? noise like what ...like the pump is running full power the whole time ..a whinning noise..a high pitched buzzing ? is it an OEM pump ?

you´re most certainly welcome. :)