Maz

electrics...my favourite. Only problem is it´s not easy to diagnose an electrical fault without actually seeing the wiring and doing some measuring with an electrical tester. I´m still trying to figure out why the headlamps would have been rewired in the first place, I mean you could bypass a faulty pod switch by adding a switch on the side, but why rewire the headlights. Sounds to me as though the person got all confussed with what goes where when rerouting the electrics and messed it all up. You need a tester to check earth, voltage and the passage of the wires to really establish what´s going on there and how to rewire it, in my opinion that is. Sorry, not much help, but electrics is always a bit tricky. Maz

maybe take a look at this thread titled: Stay away from M2 Performance http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-164004.html :o)

ECU ? maybe Fuel Pump control module ?..is it a LWB or a SWB ?

Should work. I did the same with a German spec and US spec cluster, Because of the different circuit board on the back and warning lights being different I ended up just taking the clocks from the German one and putting them into the housing of the US gauge cluster with no problems at all. :)

" Whats peoples thoughts on trying to rig a de-humidifier in it??" I´d say it´s worth a try...it certainly can´t do any harm mate.......that´s seriously messed up with the flooding mate, hope you´re able to sort it out. Maz

NA 270cc and TT 370cc injectors :)

"f one of the hoses has came off the aiv you will get an exhaust blow as its piped in from the cat." Aha, you learn something new every day, Good to know too :)

I thought the things under the wings were the secondary AIV and when defective they make a "gurgling" kind of sound from under the wing. They´re not "canisters" though, only canister I can think of is the Carbon canister, but this only fills with gases, nothing that would require emptyinng as you say. I could be wrong but I can´´t see how either of them would cause the exhaust to "blow" as you describe. :)

wouldn´t a decent impact screwdriver do the job ?

using the dremel method changing the injector is sooooo easy if it does turn out to be an injector :)

"Have to end up taking the fuel pump fuse out to drop the pressure and free up the plugs of fuel and start it with a little bit of throttle to catch it straight away before it floods with fuel again" and that works ? ..could it be a shot fuel pressure regulator, or maybe a fault with the fuel pump control module,or a combination of both ? doesn´t explain why it starts okay when warm though Like Grimmer said , check the temp sensor, not just optically though, test for the following readings: at 20c (68F) resistance 2.1 - 2.9 at 50c (122F) resistance 0.68 - 1.00 at 80c (176F) resistance 0.30 - 0.33 :)

sounds similar to mine when the injector was on it´s way out...not totaly shot, but dying. Maybe check the resistance across the injectors to rule that one out.You should get a reading between 10 an 14 ohm :)

I definitely heard of them, and "seen" them on a Z too. Is your car an import ? as ZEE´s is a typical Japanese Exhaust system often seen on the likes of Lexus, Honda NSX and the Z over in Japan. You may have to search the Japanese sites and import from there. Not much help really I´´m affraid. :)

Temp sensor ? the one that goes to the ECU...if the temp sensor is broken and telling the ECU that the engine is overheating , the ECU floods the engine with fuel in an attempt to cool the engine. :)

Found this on the German ebay, and I might be wrong, but I can´t really see the bids on this going very high as it´s primarily in MPH, which is no good in Germany. http://cgi.ebay.de/Nissan-300ZX-TwinTurbo-Tacho-320Kmh-/220679410048?pt=Autoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item3361849180 Maybe of interest to somebody, and although they haven´t specified that they would mail it outside of Germany I can ask the guy if anyone is interested. :)

how does the car sound on idle ?

Have a read of this, might be useful. Not exactly a "walkthrough" on how to do it, but perhaps still of some use to you. http://forums.nicoclub.com/auto-to-manual-swap-t181456.html :)

I notice though that the ebay add doesn´t state what width of tyre the ramps will take max,you´´d really need tp establish that first as it´´s no good if the max width is 205´´s or even smaller.

yep, exactly what Gary said :)

Oh, right...I misread that :)

according to their site they do rails to fit an R33 GTS/GTR http://www.driftworks.com/shop/driftworks-super-low-side-mount-seat-subframe-left-side-3320.html

seriously...why? http://cgi.ebay.de/Nissan-300-ZX-orig-81tkm-BJ-97-letzten-7-/190447349352?pt=Automobile&hash=item2c578bee68 :hammer:

http://www.tyredrive.co.uk/tyres/Autogrip check them out, seriously cheap tyres !!

Or did you ask the question because of the financial aspect, seeing as you can pick up an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator for half the price of an OEM one ? :)

oh, woops!! sorry mate