Maz

Border Racing made / Makes an exhaust system named "Burnout" ...try that :)

stock TT injectors should have a resistance of 10 to 14 ohm across the connectors....I believe between 10 and 16 ohm is normal for a "high resistance" injector. :)

the 1M51.s are definitely stock TT injectors the other ones, if they didn´t have the nissan logo, and were purple but looked the same I´d have said they could be old style Nismo 555 injectors,but with a Nissan logo I only know of the 2M50 injector in connection with the Z, 2H50 doesn´t ring any bells mate, can´t help you there.

Are you sure the first one isn´t an "M" aswell, i.e 2M50 as opposed to 2H50 ..in which case it should be a stock TT injector too. 1M50, 1M51 and 2M50 should all be stock TT injectors.

I have 1M51 plus a number stamped on a stock TT Injector ...so I guess that´s what those are. :)

I´m sure I read somewhere it was better to put the sensor on the lower hose as opposed to the upper hose as the upper hose would give the reading of the water temp after it´s been cooled through the radiator ..or m I comfusing something there ?

Or the locks on the Targa roof...if you have them :)

Try checking the injectors , you should get a resistance of 10-14 Ohm across the connectors.

Had to "dremel" the plenium to get to No2 and No6 Injector as both of them were dodgey. The job was ALOT easier than I aticipated though, and personally I would recommend this method as opposed to pulling a 20 year old plenium. Car is running nice and smoothly again on all 6 cylinders :yes: Thanks again to dannzx, Injectors were spot on mate :thumbup1: and Thanks to everyone for their input, always greatly appreciated. Maz

try this: http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/16304.html might help

okay...sorted, My mistake, I should have used google before posting ..sorry :( Injectors don´t have a polarity, it doesn´t matter which way around the cables go. The + sign on some injectors are apparently to allow a technician to match the terminal polarity to the terminal of the harness.. helpful for diagnostics. cheers

in a bit of a dillema: When removing the injector connectors to replace with new ones I noticed the following: There is one thick and one slightly thinner wire leading into the injector connectors. Looking at the connector with the semi circle cut out facing you the thicker of the two wires leads into the right hand side of the connector. On the new connectors I have there is also one thicker and one slightly thinner cable, problem is if I connect the thick wires together and the thin ones together the thick wire enters the left hand side of the connector instead of the Right hand side. Doesn´t it matter which way around the injector is poled or do I need to connect the thin wire from the wiring harness to the thick wire of the connector to keep the polarity the same ? any advice as always greatly appreciated. Maz

Legath.....IF this were the case, or at least a strong suspision. Would there be any way of getting to the bottom part of the cambelt casing and opening it to see if a bolt does drop out ?

Hey guys While replacing No2 injector I dropped one of the screws from the cap into the engine bay :ohmy:. I think it may have rolled into the back part of the cambelt cover. Is it now time to panic and take everything apart on a quest to try and find the bolt ? Or is it more likely that it will not cause any damage and just "drop" somewhere. Cheers Maz

you can get a sill repair bit for that part..or at least you could a few months ago, was on ebay ....I need the same thing, I guess that´s why I don´t see them for sale anymore :(

The grey ones look like stock TT injectors to me

I believe the newer type injectors have oval shaped connectors where as the older type have square connectors ...so you might have to change the injector connectors. Not sure you need a new fuel rail though, but I´m sure someone will be along soon to clear that one up. :)

fuel pump working, but no fuel being passed through the filter, If it´s not the fuel pump relay then it may be my "favourite" the Fuel pump control module :)

I know it looks cheap, and the easiest option but I wouldn´t really recommend refurbishing the Turbo yourself, especially if you don´t have the right equipment and have never done it before. Also, whatever you do don´t buy a cheap chinees refurb kit off eBay...you´re better off buying a reconditioned or new one in the long run. In my humble opinion that is. :)

I haven´t tested all 6 I have to admitt, have to take the balance bar off for the back two, but they were clicking away happily, but will test them before going ahead with anything. Cheers for the link mate, That´s spot on....I think I´ll take that route as it does appear alot easier than pulling the plenium. Now to buy a dremel :)

I just double rechecked as you suggested and found that in fact only one injector is showing 0 ohms..the one on the front right hand side when looking into the engine bay. wouldn´t a 0 ohm reading from the injector itself idicate that it is "dead" ?

looks like a plenium pull ...or a dodgy looking "dremel and file the plenium" method Not done a plenium pull yet..any pointers or things to look out for ?

yep, that´s what was next on the list mate, I was just a little apprehensious to try and remove the injector connectors as they are really old and brittle, but then again they could be the cause too. Injector connectors need renewing, that´s for sure. But unfortunately I also have 0 ohm reading on both front injectors. I guess that means I have to change them ? Anyone know if that´s an easy or difficult job , and the best way to go about it ? Any help as always greatly appreciated.

Checked all the coil pack connectors and they are all on right, The MAF is dry and I took the connectors off the PTU and checked them...all seem fine. The front 2 injectors are clicking a little less than the other 4 , took the injector connector off and cleaned it plus cleaned the injector contacts....still no change :( Also. either I am doing something wrong or something isn´t right in that I am unable to measure the resistance of the injectors through the ECU harness :confused1:

Another problem :sad: Car was working fine yesterday morning when I drove to work. After work when I started her up I could already hear her running rough, sounded a bit like running on 5 cylinders, and when you accelerate she chugs like a tractor. So far I have: 1: Checked all the spark plugs ( they have only done about 8000 Km - NGK PFR6B- 11C) They all look perfect, no signs of anything unusual. 2: I´ve checked the coil packs and the resistance is spot on on all of them. 3: The coil pack connectors are all brand new and the wiring etc is ok. 4: The Injectors seem to all be clicking- from what I can tell with the screwdriver Test. 5: Fuel pressure appears to be okay too. 6: MAF & Filter seem Okay too What I did notice is that the car idles very roughly and when you pull either of the front Two coil pack connectors there is no change in the way she idles, only when you pull any Of the 4 other connectors the revs drop. I have a series 2 PTU Does anyone have any ideas what I should check next ? :confused1: :helpsmilie: