Maz

Lammypie..mine is a US import mate :)

are you talking about a sandwich plate between the oilfilter Ritchie ? that could be the "ring " you´re refering to..if so..get a decent one, not a cheap ebay thing :)

"it's the resistance of the sender which makes the difference..." agreed, but the temp range is always stated with the sender as opposed to the "resistance" ..so if you buy a 0 to 140 gauge you need a 0 to 140 temp range sender...or not ?

if the range is the same then you can change the gauge using the same sender..if the range , as in o to 120 degrees is diferent i.e the new gauge shows 0 to 140 degrees then you will probably need a new sensor to match the range of the gauge. :)

mine is buid date August 1989 chassis 000598

Also test the ECU temp sensor, had it mine that the sensor was telling the ECU that the engine was overheating and flooded the engine in an attempt to cool it...made starting up almost impossible. Also take a look at the pipe that connects to the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator..there is one underneath , out of sight so to say , so 3 pipes in total. :)

you can pick one up for about 40 quid on ebay..or try someone on here that´s breaking one. as for changing, no idea mate, that´s a part I haven´t had to change yet :)

*battery

like you said..if you hook up a new bazzery to a voltmeter you should get 12 volts..when the alternator is charging you get a reading of 14 to 14.5 volts, if your voltmeter goes to just above 12 and then when you use electrical items drops to below 12 ( with engine running ) I´d say alternator isn´t charging.

alternator ? sounds like it isn´t charging with that voltage

sorted, cheers for that guys...appreciate it :o)

This might sound like a silly question, but if you found drops of oil in the catch pan you put under the car, is there anyway of telling / testing whether it´s engine oil or gearbox oil before getting under the car and investigating the source ? Cheers Maz

I ilke the "NOT PVC" bit in the add...it´s not PVC it´s leatherette: "Leatherette is a form of artificial leather, usually made by covering a fabric base with plastic. The fabric can be made of a natural or a synthetic fibre which is then covered with a soft PVC layer." Have to agree with Si there it´s like going backwards

could be something from these guys http://www.goldbook.ca/brampton/Automobile-Repairing-Service/18280_AST-Auto-Select-Tuning.html

cheers Joely , Richard Ill have a search for both although I´m thinking the aircraft cabin window restoration kit is not going to be so easy....don´t think many people own a Jumbo, and those that do probably don´t polish their own windsreen :) but certainly worth a look,,,cheers guys appreciate it

Does anyone know a product that actually works in removing swirl marks in the likes of the rear center panel and rear lights, i.e plastic ? Cheers Maz :)

If I remember correctly, you have to modify the set up...been a while since I fitted a Momo to the Z but I´m sure I had to add a wire for the horn to work.

Really ?...looks black to me :rolleyes:

for what it´s worth ( just a registered user) I agree with "takemetothepub" If someone sold you a ferrari 430 for 20 grand because they really needed the money, you wouldn´t, when it came to selling it say " I only paid 20 grand, give me 18 when the car is worth loads more. just my 2pence worth

Baz Try http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/6901.html for the carbon canister issue :)

i´d have thought anyone breaking a Z would have those parts left over . clownpants is breaking one and a few others that I´ve seen too.

http://photos.streetfire.net/photo/1666497.htm Kind of looks like a kitted Fiero,

don´t you have to take the fenders off to bolt the hindges of those Lambo doors on ? would make sense then that there are some bolts behind the fenders then. Not that I have those doors, but sure I read that somewhere..could be a pointer. Maz

received the connectors from Boost Pro and changed them today. Perfect and highly recommendable, way better than splicing cables and sooooo easy to do. Cheers Dave :dance:

except for the needle bouncing around mine "started" the same way, Turned out to be the ECU temp sensor. ECU diagnostic didn´t reveal the fault either, had to measure the resistance between the connectors to discover the sensor had an intermediate problem and when cold would tell the ECU the engine was overheating and while trying to start her up from cold would overfuel the engine. worth a try :)