Maz

to be quite honest with you it took me some time to get used to the brakes as i was expecting them to be better than they are on a powerful car like the Z. I wouldn´t say they don´t work, but good is something else. Saying that though they are kind of progressive..i.e the more you panic and the harder you push the pedal the better it brakes. I put brand new OEM disc and pads on..wasn´t much better ......so, are you sure they don´t work ?

what state are the discs and the pads in ? have you had a look at them, checked if you have grooves in the discs etc ?

have you looked on ebay ? I´m sure I saw a complete "auto to manual" conversion set for a Z which listed all the parts it incorporated ? Maz :)

Hey guys Been having a bit of an issue when starting the Z . When I first start her up she runs rough as hell and one of the belts squeals too. After a few revs and driving her out of the garage she then runs and idles like normal again and also the belt stops squealing. The question is why the very rough idle on start? Is there a connection to the squealing belt, or is it just coincidental that both symptoms disappear at the same time?:confused: Any advice as always greatly appreciated. Maz :)

Lmao

Nice model, already have it, and I´m glad I do as they go for quite some cash ( for a model) these days. really nice looking example though :)

I´d check the power feed to the clock too...make sure it´s getting power when the ignition is switched off , if it´s not it will reset itself everytime like disconnecting the battery :)

Just be carefull how much you drive with a slipping clutch, Had the same on mine and kept putting it off until the clutch was slipping so bad I needed to renew all the clutch parts along with the plate. moral of the story I think is to do the change quickly before it costs alot more than just the plate. just my 2 pence worth mate Maz

mine does that too although all the lights work perfectly. I believe it has something to do with the resistance of the bulb i.e you change the bulb to one that has a lower resistance than the original ones, everything works fine except the warning light comes on because it thinks there is a problem due to the lower resistance in the bulb. something like that :)

gear box 75w 90 2.8 L Diff 80w 90 3.1 L think that´s right :)

I believe you need 75w90 API GL-4..can´t see any specs on that add

I agree with Legrath..i tried a 320mm and a 350mm and I prefered the 350mm one as I could still see the dials ...but I geuss it depends on how tall you are , perhaps you already look over the steering wheel. :)

LMAO @ StellaZ

it does sound as though the system has a leak ...check the master and slave cylinder are still working properly and that they are not wet under the dust boot.

Eisegerwind = Eisigerwind which is German for "Ice cold wind" :)

why did he make it twice, wasn´t once enough ?

That is so true!

are you allowed to remove the airbag on cars in the UK ? over here if it´s equipt with an airbag you have to keep it otherwise it fails it´s MOT. just a thought. Maz

Dan, out of interest. in the scenario you describe, wouldn´t the HICAS warning light come on ? ..i.e if the steering wheel is just slightly off could you get away with the HICAS ECU not not automatically switching the HICAS off. reason I ask is that my aftermarket steering wheel is just slightly off centre but I´m sure my HICAS is still working. Maz

Looks like good news Paul, hopefully fingers crossed...just have to source a new one from somewhere. cheers for that Tony...sounds a right bummer, i hope I don´t get the same problem. Guess I´ll replace the upper one ( when I find one) and then take it from there cheers :)

okay..think I may have solved it, jacked the car up, took the panels off so I could dry everything off and see where the leak is and i found that the bottom side of the upper radiator hose has split where the jubilee clip is and when under preasure or when you wiggle it it sprays a jet of water downwards...hopefully that´s all it is :)

Hi I noticed in the last few day, when it got really cold over here that the car would take much longer than normal to warm up. i.e heating kicked in much later. ( car never over heated though ) checked the radiator this morning and it was almost empty. So, leaving the engine runing I filled the radiator up and waited for the thermostat to open. When it did a considerable amount of water was drawn into the system but as I refilled the radiator up to compensate it started to trickle water from under the car, right hand side when stood in front of it, about 5 -10 inches in from the front wheel. I´ve had a cambelt, water pump etc change done about 10.000 miles ago and up until it got really cold here the car was runing fine. anyone got any ideas or pointers please ..would be greatly appreciated cheers Maz

kind of along the lines of what FunkSi said....didn´t you put on a ducted nose panel to allow more air to flow in to the air filter, and haven´t you just stopped that now happening with the perspex sheet ?

do the lights on the dash dim when you try to start , do they go off for a split second or does everything stay the same and just goes "click" like the magnetic switch on the starter moter ...where does the "click" sound like it´s coming from ?

you actually believe he managed 165mph in that ?? lol