Maz

could the ECU temp sensor be faulty but not kick the auxillary fan in then ?

only sometimes ??? lol

Pete you are refering to the temp sensor that leads to the ECU right, the one with the two conections and not the one that leads to the temp sensor ..reason I ask is the temp sensor that feeds the temp gauge is knackered , but surely that wouldn´t effect starting starting.

as the title says "clutching at straws " here with my starting problem but, if any of the belts were slipping on start up could this cause problems when trying to start her up ? Maz

I might be wrong..or be confussing it with something else but I thought the US version doesn´t even have a transmission cooler ...just the european version does ...with Germany in mind and high speed motorway driving ...sure I read that somewhere.

I´ve also noticed that the longer you leave the car stood the worse it gets :( after warming up , switch off the engine, 30 mins later starts perfectly 1h 30 mins later starts with slight hesitation 5 hours later it takes 2 to 3 attempts to start leave it overnight and it starts as described earlier :(

damn! ,,if I was still in the UK I´d bring a crate of beer around and see if we could jog your memory :(

Jeff I checked the fuel dampener and seems to be working ok...the vacuum hose leading to the balance tube is dry too. started her again this morning...took about 4 attempts to get her idling at 200 or so, dash lights remained on ...tried pushing the accelerator pedal but no reaction at all...didn´t cut out and didn´t go up in revs either, after it running for about 30 secs like that i gently püshed the accelerator pedal down and the z slowly started to come...ever so slowly...hesitating inbetween but slowly gaining revs until all of a sudden she springs to life and ticks over perfectly. judging by the revs it sounds as though the choke is working ok too. totally lost on this one mate maz

must have a huge numberplate on the back judging by the recess there ...the back looks awefull !!

cheers Jeff, appreciate it. I´ll check for that first thing tomorrow :)

same here :) The temp sensors are both okay pete..and the auxillary fan stays off until i pull connector off the sensor. Thought i´d solved the problem when i found the fuel leak ..started fine for a few days after i repaired it...but now it´s playing up again and the fuel leak hasn´t returned.

like when you start an old motorcycle up (mine) without pulling the choke...i.e starts, cuts out...starts..cuts out again...then starts..runs very uneven...engine shaking...feels as though it´s about to cut out ....then as the fuel gets to all four carbs it´s starts to run a little more even until it eventual runs properly...that´s what the Z acts like on start up at the moment mate.

they don´t "drop" as such..she doesn´t react to the gas pedal being pressed...just idles very low..and runs like on 2 cylinders..then three...then runs fine.

for a while as in overnight

when I start her up it´s like she´s not getting enough fuel...cuts out straight away..then the more often you try she slowly starts to "run" ..spluttering a bit...revs very very low ( this morning was reving so low the dash lights stayed on ) then all of a sudden she picks up the revs and from then on runs and idles perfectly. Only happens when the car has been stood for a while.

Cheers pete The darn problem at start up has cropped up again :( Maz

how does the automatic choke work on a TTZ and what would I have to check ro ensure it is working properly ? tried the search option and couldn´t find anything cheers Maz

it´s mentioned here somewhere I believe http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/PICS/autoTrannyOilChange/autoTrannyOilChange.html :)

cheers Guynkate..always a good feeling when you can solve the problem yourself especially as Nissan seem to charge me 500 Euros for just driving the car into the workshop ..or that´s the feeling I get. :)

they can´t be that rare mate..you can get them from the states for 80 - 90 dollars http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mmp/nissan~300 clutch_master_cylinder~parts.html :)

Progress! I had the feeling that the problem was fuel related i.e that the car wasn´t getting enough fuel on start up and that it took a few "revs" to get it "flowing". Combined with the usual smell of fuel you get in winter made me set about checking the fuel lines. I found that the small piece of hose under the fuel rail was spitting out fuel on both sides and not just dripping it was spraying in both directions. Tightened the clips up and it´s made a 90% improvement on starting...now I just need to solve the remaining 10% and it should be sorted. :)

hmmm I didn´t check the MAF to be honest mate as I didn´t think it would cause problems starting, thought it was more a running issue with the MAF but I will certainly check it. cheers Phantom :)

okay..i´ve checked an array of stuff including plugs, TPS, CAS , Throttle bodies and coil packs to no avail. Is it possible that it´s fuel related ? choke not working correctly..or would a faulty fuel pressure regulator or fuel dampeners cause the car to not get enough fuel until you rev it up slightly...is that possible ? Maz

right, I´ve established the following: The problem is getting worse, this morning it spluttered and cut out twice before staying on. it starts up right away, runs on what feels like 3 or 4 cylinders , stalls and then cuts out. Once it starts though and you rev it lightly a few times it runs fine. Only happens when the car has been stood for a while too. If the engine is still warm then she fires up straight away, idles a little high at first but eventually settles down. Belt sqealing has dissapeared too. anyone got any suggestions at all ? Cheers Maz

Cheers Phantom, no problem with the belts..i.e replacing or tightening them ..it´s the really rough idle on start up that concerns me. I only mentioned the squealing of the belt as the two "problems" showed up at the same time mate. Maz :)