NemesizX

Wish I could.. Its for the postman so he doesn't keep banging on the door to deliver parcels.. I get them to lock stuff in the trailer instead. Not sure if my posty can read though as he still bangs on the door several times and sends the dog mental.. By the time I get to the door he's usually gone.. The life of a night worker...

Greene King? I didn't realise ale could be used Joel? Seriously, what's IPA?

Didn't get as far as the HD wax but enjoyed washing jae off her and then a good going over with some super resin Polish and a coat of fast wax. Fast glass on the windows too.. Not bad for an old girl huh? Quick question though folks. I seem to have something that looks like watermarks on the glass? Glass cleaner doesn't want to shift them so wondering if anyone else has had this and might know a trick to remove them?? I had thought about trying the Polish but don't want to damage the glass

Lucky you! I need a boss like yours.. Lol..

Glad to report that 3 days have passed without so much as a cough from my engine :thumbup: As she's being a good girl, I'm gonna treat her to a bit of a spa day tomorrow. I got a great goodie bag from autoglym as a thank you for bringing to their attention a small problem with one of their products and its labelling. So, first it's an all over treatment with some super resin Polish, then a good going over the glass with the glass cleaner before a nice finishing coat of HD wax. Now you watch it rain tomorrow! :lol:

Lee.. How much does a garage like that cost?? Jees I'd kill for that garage.. In fact I'd kill for a normal double sized garage.. I must be in the wrong job or living in the wrong place cos I'd never afford that on my pittance..

Ah the magic of the forum working well... Great stuff Ali :thumbup:

Yup mate, that's the little bleeder.. . I know someone who had trouble with it before and that's what made me think of it cos I sold him the boxout of this breaker.. Ali may have one of these.. He's just breaking a z..

Sounds like you've got a bad earth on the passenger side mate, try giving the connector for the passenger side a clean and tighten the pin for the earth by using a small screw driver to close the gap in the connector to tighten the grip on the pin.. There's also a small control box in the driver side rear just next to where the aerial fits in. These boxes can sometimes have a bad connection which can cause issues.. Fairly sure Andy the phutumsch will be able to pin pint it for you as he's a guru on the lights in these cars but those are the points I would check first if it were me. Good luck

Ermmm, yes of course.. We are the drivers.. F1 teams listen to the driver of the car for feedback and suggestions of changes to set up jimmer.. We are the test pilots and we know best.. Of course between you and I, you know a hell if a lot more than I, but I still think they should've put a gutter on the targas.. :rofl:

Ah, the relief of hitting 120mph and still feeling the power ready to come on :biggrin: It's official, the test drive was faultless! Done some wiring repairs whilst I was at it and water proofed a couple of connections. I'm so very pleased to announce that nostrils is back to full health again at least for now :dance: Thanks for all your help and support guys, it's appreciated.

OK well I decided that for now I'm only going to change injector 6, so following jimmers helpful guide to butchering your plenum, about 20 Dremel s bits later and we're in business.. :thumbsup: Anyhow, the good news is that the injector change has been done and...... She's alive :biggrin: About to take her on the first test run but things are looking and sounding as sweet as ever... Here's some pics.

They felt like witchcraft at the time! Ah those were the days, setting points with feeler gauges and kinda guessing and hoping it ran OK when you put it back together lol.. Getting the occasional jolt up the arm when you touched the wrong bit with a screwdriver and forgot the ignition was still on :biggrin: And who can forget the good old dizzy... Running the engine and turning it by hand hoping and praying that the timing would one day be advanced or retarded enough to make it tun lol.. It was all good fun back when I used to turn my own spanners..

I see what you're saying jimmer, but we must remember that if it were in front of the fan then that may work out well, however, being behind it, you have all the heat being sucked out of the radiator then being blown directly on to the ptu.. I think they should have mounted it in the nose panel area, then it'd be as far from heat as possible. I think Stephen has nailed it though, exactly the point I was trying to make, maybe I didn't explain it in the right way.

This may well be true Ian.. I do have every bit of paperwork that my car has ever had and no mention of it ever being changed in the papers I have. I've been assured that I have everything as well. As you said, yours have lasted ten years so this is my point.. Is that a bad length of time for an electrical component to last considering its use and the horrendous conditions it's subjected to? I think I've changed the points on cars far more regularly and distributors, alternators etc.. Is ten years considered a bad length of time for it to last?

Ali, I believe your reading things as you want to, all I have said is that the units do the same thing and they can't be that unreliable or we would all have the later one in the car.. I honestly don't give a flying fig what Nissan say or any other multi million pound organisations have to say because the truth is that you'll never hear the truth about something from them if it's bad PR.. You seem to be arguing your case thinking that my own opinion of this will change, but as stated a number of times, I personally (along with a lot of other owners) have never had a ptu issue. Some have but as also stated previously, a lot of factors can and do make the difference in electronic parts failure. If you lived in dubai, your Nissan would constantly have electrical issues due to heat and dust and massive temperature difference. All I'm saying is, recall or not, I can't see what the problem is with a ptu being S1 or S2. The US is a much hotter climate than the UK so maybe that is why they had a bigger issue out there. Over here it's a lot cooler most of the year so electrical and electronic items fail far less from heat damage but rather from road salt and wet or damp conditions. I'm going to leave it there as this is probably winding others up a lot more than it is me, but in my opinion, from experience and from others experience that I've spoken to, the S2 and the S1 reliability here isn't so different. The one point I think you're missing us the S1 is much older and therefore is more likely to be an issue, let's see how well the S2 fairs when it's 20+ years old..

Well, I truly believe the corporations statements.... The pure and simple fact is that some fail, some don't.. Law of averages.. If the S1 is that bad, then I'm sure they would've been completely recalled globally. Lets just say that it's non conclusive which is best so you decide what to go with if yours fails.. No denying that both series have failed in the past so it's either pay £20 for a used S1 or somewhere between £40 & £80 for a used S2 with adapter.. Pays your money, takes your choice..

Not at all Ali, I'm going on the fact that my own car and many others have never had an issue. What I've said if you take in what I wrote is that any electrical or electronic device can fail at any time. There is no correct answer for which is a better unit, it's all about luck and care if the appliance. I've seen brand new units fail on all sorts of electronic devices, it's simply a matter of if it breaks then fix it or replace it, but I can't see why there is a preference to one or the other! FYI I have a series 2 ptu on my car now, not because I needed it, but simply cos it's a tidier looking unit and I figured as it was old and I had a S2 sitting in a box with the loom adapter, I may aswell get it changed whilst other work was being done. If this guys ptu has failed and he wants to replace it cheaply then as I said, I have two perfectly good working units here.. If reliability of these units in the US genuinely was the reason for recall, why are there so many over the rest of the globe still using S1 without a problem? Let's have a think about this.. Mr Nissan has a choice of saying to the world, hmm our series 1 units could give you cancer or lets just recall them through reliability issues.. I know which one the pr people would be suggesting don't you? What you read on the net isn't always the accurate truth.. If you're selling to a global market, the last thing you want to advertise is a health hazard on your products. When you look at the US and Canada, you are still using every day products that they have banned use if in those places, can you see what I'm saying Ali? There is nothing wrong with S1 until something goes wrong with it. That could be day one from leaving the factory or 26 years down the line.. Its the same with all electrical unless they were shite to begin with through manufacturing design and processes. It's the simple facts.. If they were that unreliable from factory, we'd all have S2 ptu's in our cars.

From what I understand, the US recall was due to materials used that the US deemed hazardous to health. Not reliability issues. I read an article on it on the US z forum a while back whilst investigating the reason for the safety stickers being sold on ebay for the ptu

Lets just say this Ali, theres a lot of series one still in service today, I have two perfectly good serviceable units in my workshop. It's a factor of many things that can kill both S1 & S2 units. Let's face it, the hicas unit was changed, certain electrical components, mechanical components etc, not necessarily cos they worked better but they were improved in size and tidiness aswell. Simple fact is, both units do the same job and both have a service life that's unknown. Even storage can affect them, like if the car is dry stored, kept warm in the winter, exposed to ice or wet conditions etc. It's not a simple question or answer it's just a case of if it's still working it's great, if not then replace it. Obviously changing from S1 to S2 has the extra cost of a loom adapter to change but in my opinion, neither are better than the other. If there's hard facts to prove otherwise I'd stand corrected but the proofs in the pudding and S1 never let me down or the previous owner in 26 years.. Just saying like

All I can say Dan, is I've had a factory installed series 1 ptu on my car that hadn't failed in 26 years.. I know of people who's series 2 have failed and also series one. I think the secret to keeping the series one going is relocation away from heat sources like under the nose panel but at the end of the day, I don't see that a series one or two have any difference in functionality. They both work and as far as I'm aware, the series 2 is the same module just with better quality wiring that gives a higher and more stable voltage capacity.. Since changing to S2 I haven't noticed any difference in the cars running at all.. So reliability being an issue on series 1 I don't believe to be an issue.. Its simply age related in my opinion and experience aswell as the care taken if the unit and its connections. Like any electrical device, it can and will fail over time but the better it's cared for, the longer it might last..

OK, progress report number two on the mysterious misfire.. After running tests on just about everything from ecu to plugs and everything checking out, I was at a loss.. However, the first test on the injector showed up that the injector was working fine with 013 ohms reading across the terminals.. As the car had begun firing on six again for a shirt time on Monday, I trusted that the injector wasn't at fault. However I have been out with the meter again today and guess what?? Injector 6 shows no reading at all. Thus the conclusion is that the injector is fried. Now, everyone here has been very helpful and offers of help have been greatly appreciated, in fact some offers have actually blown my mind. I'd like to say a public thank you to everyone for your support and kind gestures. Now, I'm still going to pull the plenum but I'm considering buying a new set of injectors and replacing them all to save this problem happening again in the near future, so can anyone tell me if they have a new set of 370 injectors hiding away somewhere that they'd be prepared to sell for as good a price as possible? Or where I can buy a set of decent quality ones at a good price cos funds as most will be aware are extremely limited for me after recent problems. If anyone can help me out here, I'd be very grateful.. You might even get a kiss :biggrin:

If you require a replacement because you still have the cats installed, give me a shout mate. I have the exact set up on my series one breaker and you are more than welcome to come take it off free of charge..

Yup.. Only difference really is the series 2 has no heatsink.. If that's not a downgrade, I'm not sure what is.. :lol:

Totally in agreement with you Stephen. My 1990 z had a series one ptu on it for 26 years and was only changed because I had a series 2 in a box of spares and just figured it would be an upgrade and may make the car run more stable. The said series 1 ptu is still in good working order and has been kept as a spare ready for when the good old series 2 gives up.. I understand that the series 2 has a higher load capability and can make the engine slightly smoother or responsive but from the change of mine I've noticed no difference that's recognisable. I say if it ain't broke, leave it the heck alone! You find it stays working longer then! If your series one goes breasts skywards then either replace it with a series one again cheaply or spend a few quid and get a series two loom connector and a series 2 ptu.. Either one you put on the car will probably make no difference to the way it drives or runs.. So in my honest opinion, I'd rather have the cool looking heatsink rather than the boring old plastic box..