Old Zed

Have you turned the car over with the fuel pipe disconnected ?

Some MoT stations won't accept 2 of your brake lights wired up as fog lights from what I have been told although I have not experienced that myself. The previous owner of my car had to pay a garage to disconnect that arrangement and stick a dangley down one on the back. Yuk.!

Marcus, has the car been running since it was broken into, and just as important since you carried out some work to the wiring.

As long as you mark it and put it back in the same position, then you are back to where it was originally before it failed. As it went to Zedworld, no doubt that might have been checked, I do not know what your remit was to Jeff regarding sorting the car out, servicing etc., but as you say, it might pay to get it checked after you have got it running again.

Thats why I told him to mark it with a sharp point !! so that he can put it back exactly how it was.

A shame that, basically it was a nice car when Lee owned it but it went downhill after his problems.:(

Trouble is the flight leaves at 6.15am.!!

Marcus, the fuel pump does not run continuously, but only if signal is received from the CAS unit. Using a sharp point mark exactly the position of the CAS unit on the adjusting screw. Remove bolts from it and pull away from camshaft. Turn on the ignition, do not turn over the engine. Now turn the shaft on the CAS by hand in the same rotation as the engine (clockwise looking at the front), You should be able to hear the fuel pump cutting in and more importantly the injectors clicking. If you cannot then it is either your PTU failed or your CAS unit, or a break in the cable in between.

Why mess around with wiring when it was going OK one minute and then would not start. I am assuming it turns overs but does not fire, so surely something either has a bad connection (very likely) or you have a component failure, PTU, CAS or most unlikely something to do with the fuel system. I had something similar on a previous Zed and after changing everything except the CAS, and by everything I mean fuel pump, fuel pump ECU, plus the relay and then the fuel filter, fitted a new Mk2 PTU as well and it still would not start. It turned out to be poor connections on the cable between the PTU and the CAS. Use alloy wheel cleaner via a childs type paint brush to clean them up but rinse afterwards with contact cleaner. It certainly sorted my car out.

Yes they are rubbish. No grip in the wet at all and don't last long, that's probably why they are cheap.

H3C but if you fit an earth you can use an H3 in the dipped beam, and H1 in the main beam.

An alarm is a priority on these cars, over and above all other mods / improvements, especially if parked on the road. No alarm = trouble. The car looks fast stationary, an obvious target.:(

Didn't the alarm go off...........................or does it not have one ?

My son Jimmer's car is knocking out about 426 bhp (poss more now) and he has a big brake kit on the front and std rears, that pulls up great. My car is now knocking out about 400 ish and I am fitting a big brake kit on the front and G&D's type rears. If you are going for big power then a total brake upgrade like Mac has done is thoroughly recommended. A good value set of rears I found is at potn.com where G&D's are about £150.

If you already have a big brake kit on the front, and the car is standard, surely it must pull up OK. Macs car is knocking out 560 bhp (I think) and that is why the need for some serious stopping equipment. Personally if your car is standard and already with bigger front discs, I would go for a set of direct replacement grooved and drilled rears with new pads, of which most people go for the 'red stuff' type.

Has anyone had these tubes perish and cause a leak inside the car.

Did she suck the poison out Lol.:rofl:

Funny enough Lisa this only started at the pub on DARTMOOR, your not jinxed are you !!:rofl:

It seems to have appeared since using my local hand car wash which uses the deadly power washers. The staff are Polish and love the car and they all end up washing it rather enthusiastically. I do not know if this is a coincidence but these two events started together. It is garaged when not in use and seldom driven in the rain as it is a bit scary then, well more scary than usual.

Thats cheered me up no end. I was getting all excited about an aircon drain and then oooooooops, mind the short. I can see that I am going to have to give some serious time to sorting this out before other more expensive problems occur.

Is that an obvious pipe Dave and which side of the ECU does it run.

I have an annoying water leak on the passenger side which is now really boiling my p@@s. I have checked all the targa drain tubes and all are OK. There is no obvious sign of water leaking around the glass. There is no water loss from the engine via the heater matrix etc., and the heater works well. Could water be coming in via the air vent situated just in front of the windscreen. Where does the water get vented out from this area ? The car is now coming up together nicely but something I just cannot stand is wet carpets, I have had enough of that decades ago with older type cars when that sort of thing was quite common.

You can only edit if you subscribe, £20 well spent judging by the way your digits fondle the keyboard. Loads of other benefits too including free ads etc.,

On second thoughts, it looks like another chavvy lot. It is described as a 'racer' but apart from the seats, rollcage and the awful paintwork, all else is standard, that said though it id a tintop maual

This has appeared on Ebay. It got to be worth the money. Anyone wanting a slicktop road racer, here it is........LEGRATH. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-Nissan-300-ZX_W0QQitemZ280210969920QQihZ018QQcategoryZ18238QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Sorry no good with computers, perhaps someone can shorten it down.