Old Zed

Until something fails..........................then nothing.:cry:

It is a shame about Z1Motorsport because they have a good website which is easy to navigate, but beyond that there is no 'backup'. Once they have your money you are on your own. They made a special effort to get me to return the faulty turbo core which failed after just 450 miles, supposedly to find out what went wrong with it but once it was back with Z1, no further contact even to repay my £26 return postage costs, and of course the cores sell for $480 so they needed it back to make MORE money. That is sadly all they are interested in, MONEY, your money. Another guy on here who bought Wiseco pistons from them received broken rings when delivered and they were packaged well so they were obviously not inspected before being shipped.

The fit of the bumper gives you a clue to the mentallity of the owner. Absolute rubbish.

Sounds as though you may have damage either an engine mount or a gearbox mount. The one to look at first is the rear gearbox mount which has some sort of stabiliser block fitted which protrudes downwards. If bent this causes a vibration.

It couldnt be you Murt, he was obviously driving fast as he was late.:rofl:

You need to be careful with pattern parts in respect of water pumps. Some have a lower number of vanes on and thus circulate the water less which also leads to overheating.

You also need to realise that wheel and tyre size affect the ride as well. I put 19"s on a previous Zed with 30's on and the ride even with standard shock absorbers was hard, by hard I mean that you felt every road contour.

I had a mate who confronted some kids trying to steal the stereo from his car, and he grabbed one but all the others ran off. He got stabbed with a screwdriver before he wrestled the lad to the gound, kicked and then bitten. His missus called the police and sure enough they did not have anyone available to respond, so eventually he let the guy go. Two days later he had a brick thrown through his lounge window. ???

I would also make sure your electric fan is working. Start the car up and pull the connector off the fan switch, the fan should cut in immediately. The fan switch is adjacent the temperature sender right in the front of the engine.

Forgive me if this has been posted before but what a collection of fancy kit here, of course it has to be the US. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/CC-Lamborghini-day-lp640_169017.htm

Well done Murt, and very well done Paul and David.:smash:

I presume that is just the labour charge. ??

Its not just the calipers that make the difference, you will need larger diameter discs too. They make a huge different when keeping the standard caliper.

RPS definitely the one Lisa. I had one fitted to mine and changed to a sport one from Z1.......a mistake. It makes funny noises and stinks. I don't think it's long for this world. The RPS was absolutely superb. Mine was kicking 380bhp before the turbo upgrade so it was certainly tested.

Yep. I agree with that. Every time I see a MK3 I have to look at it, a Mk4.....nope.

You have obviously not driven a modern diesel with the sound of it. When people jump in my Laguna one of the things they ask is 'is this a diesel'. It is so quiet and with the 6 speed box pretty nifty too.

You got no chance Lisa especially in a 300ZX TT too. The length a clutch last really is down to how much the car is tuned and how it has been driven. I had a clutch on a Xantia diesel last for 228,000 miles, on the other hand the clutch in my Zed which I replaced when the engine was done had only really done about 3000 miles and it was borderline whether I replaced it, but I did. That was a RPS Street cluch as well.

It was a cracking day......god I missed not taking the Zed, but there again the carpark at the Wheatsheaf was full. A really cracking do, well done Mark.

Gearbox out complete with torque convertor intact, so undo the 4 bolts (I think) holding it to the mounting plate attached to the crankshaft. You will have to rotate it to get to them all. Remove the mounting plate also. When that is done you will see the rear main oil seal which can be hooked out with a suitable oil seal removing tool. When inserting the new one, lightly lubricate it and make sure it goes in squarely without cutting the rubber casing. Re-assemble as removed. before removing the propshaft, it is advised to mark its position on the diff flange and re-assemble in the same position, this apparently essons the chances of getting vibrations from the prop afterwards. By the way, the box is foooking heavy.

Sadly that will not be down to you, the guys doing the testing also do the throttle jockeying, flat out in 4th.:(

How true that is.....:rofl:

I have heard that they are good too, I will certainly be giving them a go for future bits.

Not really. They sent me a CHRA (a core) which was duly fitted. As above they requested that I sent the old core back which cost me £26 and said they would refund the postage. That was over a month ago and I heard nothing about the failed turbo or about the refund of the postage. In the end Jimmer spoke to Shawn and asked about it to which the response was 'oh yeah the core was covered' in otherwords an admission that it was faulty. They also said to let them know the cost of returning it. If Jimmer had not mentioned it, I do not think that they would have done either, and on top of that of course the engine had to be taken out to replace the faulty turbo. No mention of compensation there either. There are other US suppliers which I think are worth exploring both for discounts and better service.

So where did this statement come from then ?

Murt, don't change your engine, it's sounds quite acceptable. Just get some known used turbos. There are people on here that have changed their turbos for bigger models when the old ones were still running good. They will surely let them go quite reasonable.