geeky_hawkes

anyone?

pictures be good, got most of the stuff lying around somewhere, job for next sat i think

damn it uk spec car... where is the best place to run the wire from/via... assuming either of the rear brake lights but how to run it up to the boot lid under the trim?

thanks job for next weekend, had the trim off recently to remove the counter weight off the wiper arm but wasnt looking for the connector to be honest...

nice to see, a guy at work driving a golf gti (20 valve one) keeps giving me sh1t that his car is faster than mine, but not found a good time to prove him wrong... surely even a zed stock is quicker than the r32 version of the golf?

So after finally getting round to changing my supposed dead bulbs in my spoiler brake light turns out that its not connected to anything! Im assuming that as the spoiler was swopped not long before i got the car they just didnt bother to reconnect the brake light. Im presuming that some where under the boot trim will eb the feed lines for the brake light in the spoiler and that im not going to have to wire it all the way down to the rear lights. Does anyone have pictures under the boot trim that might help or a good description of what i should find under the boot trim to let me hook the rear spoiler light up.. cheers andy

Ive set my profec B for PSi and trying to get a decent base level of boost (say cirrca 10psi) in Lo, and then 14/15psi in hi. Ive searched and found several lists of setting but not sure if they actually for the psi or kpa settings on the controller. Also the instructions hint that the unit gives real time boost so although my after market boost guage is fairly crude (last owner got one that reads in bar not very acuratly..) can i just get a passenger to read the boost levels out as i drive and then use the peak recall to avoid dangerous boost.? Currently set as: Loset: 16% Gain:18% Setgain: :48 Warning : 110 drop 20% Hiset: 33% Gain:21% setgain: :85 Warning: 155 drop 20% cheers all

sorry cant help mines been de-aerialed :hyper: well worth the hassle for the looks imho

cheers guys, il give her the links

Im sure im opening up for some abuse, but my mrs wants an mx5, 1.6 or 1.8, around the 4k - 5k mark. I dont know anything about them to be honest (not my kinda car.. sure people understand.) but was just wondering if anyone has any advice for buying (or not) and what to look for. Thanks all

not too sure myself but around 6 secs to 60 doesnt sound bad, i know id be happy if i could get close to 5.5 sec... car always makes me smile, specially on a sunny day¬!!!

planing on buying the xbox wireless usb card and the wanadoo live box is in the next room, and laptop upstaires so im hopeful

Just (Finally!) managed to get hold of an xbox 360, and im lookin at getting it all linked up wirelessly with my windows xp machine (non media center), HD tv and my wanadoo wireless broadband. Basically anyone got experiance of how easy this is to do.. read a fair bit on the internet but was hoping for some uk specific advice.

im same as legrath.. no bottom tray or splash guard and all is fine.. guess its just luck if it effects your car or not..

I have a dump valve on my auto from the previous owner.. think they largly dont do anything for the car IMHO as an auto, but if you are after the noise only sometimes it is handy.. no noise changing gear but on lift off does give a good woooosshhhhh. so maybe the best of both worlds from a sound point of view

thanks for the info... see if i can get hold of a cheap s14 cooler and see if it will fit seems a sensible first stage

thats great thanks, i will have a look and try and work out what is going on in the mess of wires there

thanks jeff, so from this assuming the fuse is going to the lights which connector off the relay do i need to use to have the side lights permanantly on? (when i come for serivce Il probably get you to give this electrical thing the once over as well!) Thanks andy

think the numbers on the bottom of the realy are like 30 (ish) 85 and 86 and then another (not very helpful but assuming someone knows these and i can connect one fo these to the other side of the fuse and get sidelights..)

sounds like what im after but im having a thick moment, remove either side of the fuse (wire?) and then feed into them from what? another section of the relay (which im presuming has a trigger and then power and an output..? ) im not having a clever day today :headvswal

thats what i was thinking but was after a "quick fix" so i can drive the car at night for the next few days then just spend the time tidying up all the eltrics (and removing the damn insulating tape)

not sure its HP really for the cooler more air mass and pressure/flow. seem to remember the guys were talking of 16 psi max really through the std s14 cooler as it caused leaks in the fittings after that, so you would be looking at 16psi through the coolers =bhp. as for the s14 turbos think it would be a huge amount of work to get custom fittings (brackets manifolds etc) for not much gain really.. IMHO

more help needed im afraid.. as described above it appears that the relay is plumped in to replace a correded section of something. The relay is actually a ford relay but is rated 12v 40amp so should be fine for sidelights.... Its triggering with the swtich of my sidelight switch (ie clicking on and off) and it has its own 15am inline fuse which i have taken out n replaced (even though it wasnt blown) but still not sidelights!! Ive checked all the connections I can see but that section of my car is a mess with insulating tape and inline fuses in it...(not lights connected just messy really). Anyone got any ideas .. it seems the rac man might have just been lucky to get the lights back buy disconnecting the relay and my assumtions were wrong.. cheers

ive got the tech info somewhere on the s14 coolers il dig it out... just thinking cheap way to get an upgrade if they fit..(as lots s14 owners have them lying round after fitting fmic.) il post anything i find

thanks, but from that should i take that a pair for s14 coolers would be an advantage to my zed? Assuming I could get them to fit somewhere..(1bar is 12 or 14 psi :headvswal )