Chrisbasildon

I do hope this nice weather is here for this :clover:

Nope, seatbelt lights arent a testable item

Pooping out blades eh, ouch! Seems to be a difference in wether the circuit is normally open or normally closed, go grab your fluke and get testing and or rewiring with a relay if you need to. And sort out your blades problem :biggrin:

Not really considering it isnt a tested item

The point I was making was the fact that my surf which is still running the original turbo at nearly 200000km is still going strong which is inline with the topic of jeffs thread is it not? And oil in an intake system is not necessarily due to the turbo, I never said it was, I said every modern turbo engine I work on has a huge amount of oil within the intake system, whether this is the turbo at fault obviously depends on that particular vehicle but the turbo cannot be ruled out as the cause, and I KNOW that many times it is. I've had turbo low and high pressure pipes removed and had oil running from the high pressure outlet on idle many times, take the garrett turbo fitted to the dv6 engine for example, I've replaced more of these than I care to remember, garrett point the finger of blame at PSA who build the engine.

I didn't say it was.

My offering to this discussion is this, I work on a wide variety of cars every day of the week and therefore see many different engine types and turbo variations. We almost swap out a dead turbo weekly on one vehicle or another, some fairly high mileage but some very low mileage with good service history so it seems that turbo quality across the board seems to much lower than years gone by. My daily is a 1996 JDM HILUX SURF 3.0TD, it has nearly 200000km on the clock on the original turbo which still pulls strong with no smoke no oil usage and if and when I remove the intake pipe work it has zero oil inside. Every turbo car I work on at work has a huge amount of oil in the pipe work and intercooler it's shocking!

Lol spotted myself and AndrewG discussing the boot layout in mine.

Your work really is getting in the way of all things Z Joel! Go on the dole and live large with all the free time in the world :blink:

Assuming you will be going clockwise when u reach the M25 chris do u fancy meeting at Thurrock services? We could then convoy to the next stop :thumbup1:

Can I gate crash this Howard? I will see if chris(bedzeeman) wants to meet up on route and we can convoy down to you....

Was cleaning the zed by 6am today, weather here was pretty good, she's tucked up in the garage now smelling of meguiars gold class was. :biggrin:

Me for sure! The detailing will commence at 6am Saturday........ :biggrin:

Well worth a tenner IMO.

Very nice......:thumbup1:

Just wondering if anyone is planning to join in with this?

Received with thanks :thumbup1:

Weren't the Recaro seats available as an option the SR3 model? I believe the speed model is the replacement for the SR3? Could be wrong though.

See you all at tescos! :thumbup1:

Hydrodynamic wedge :thumbup1:

I use dynoprop in Romford russ for all my work, he's the best in the business, his work is first class and reasonable on prices too.

Correct mate, he will need to use the NA rear prop section to match up with the NA diff flange, it's whether or not the front section of a auto prop is different between TT and NA. I'm currently using a TT manual front prop and a NA rear prop, as mine is a manual conversion from a NA auto originally.

I believe russ that the front of the prop is the same for TT and NA auto, your current prop should slide straight in. Correct me if im wrong here anyone

Who's doing the work Ali?

When you say fully drained Alic, do you mean just what has been drained from the ATF sump pan or a complete drain as in rebuilt transmission and new torque converter? The amount will differ by quite a lot depending on what you mean. The sump pan on the transmission doesn't hold a huge amount of oil, firstly LOOK at your dipstick and observe the COLD and HOT markings, guess what they are for...... Fill the transmission via the dipstick tube to the max cold mark and stop. Run the engine, move gear selector from P through the ranges and back to P, leave engine idling, remove dipstick (you won't get a face full of ATF don't worry) and most likely the level will have dropped, again top up to the max cold mark and stop. Keep doing this until the level remains at the max cold mark, then go for a drive to heat up the ATF then once your back home, check dipstick with engine still running and see where your level is, it should be near max hot, if not top up to this level and your done.