Funkysi

Was that '309' based on pure motorway driving? Most of my trip at the end of the month will be nice straight and smooth french Autoroute with a few choice Route Nationale roads thrown in for good measure. I am to stick cruise on at about 80 (their own speed limit on Autoroute).

Haha....if ever there was a ***t.....lol

All depends how and where you drive it mate. Z32s can do 30 to the gallon on a good day, but next to nothing if you're urban driving/tanking it.

If it's a freshly rebuilt engine, it could still be burning off residue, it does take some time. If you have the original ICs in there, then oil from worn engine/failed turbos can pool there and take time to burn off. Make sure it's not that before going any further down the line.

I filled up last week. £92, but it was almost empty. I'll be getting through 4-5 tanks in a week at the end of the month. That'll hurt!

Wonder if it's Chunk?

Speak to MW-Tech on the 350z forum. He'll be able to help.

No, just go to any good motorsport place and get one. They're just high-tensile nuts.

There are different lengths of Nismo studs. I'd go bolt-on for anything ABOVE 15mm. I know somewhere that makes 15mm hubcentric bolt-on spacers as I have them on mine and have had for the past 3 years. H&R are a nightmare to deal with. You know they use to make and still list 300zx springs. You have to special-order them from the factory if you really want them. They're lower than Eibach springs, but have the same quality of ride. Eibach and H&R's spacers are made in the same factory.

Well, if it's of any consideration, my Z feels no different than before. It rides very well actually, so I think you'll be fine.

All depends on offset dude. I'd say you can probably get a 10" wide rear running a +35. Much wider and you risk it rubbing parts of the suspension. You could go wider if you fitted an NA subframe and ditched ALL the HICAS stuff. As for the fronts, if you fit 10" rears, go for 9"....with maybe a +25 offset.

All depends on offset dude. I'd say you can probably get a 10" wide rear running a +35. Much wider and you risk it rubbing parts of the suspension. You could go wider if you fitted an NA subframe and ditched ALL the HICAS stuff. As for the fronts, if you fit 10" rears, go for 9"....with maybe a +25 offset.

Tried fitting replacement clutch booster hose...failed, split both ends. Resorting to plain black silicone hose after much swearing and bleeding fingers. ****ing ****ish ****ing piece of **** No amount of boiling water and Fairy Liquid could help!

Tried fitting replacement clutch booster hose...failed, split both ends. Resorting to plain black silicone hose after much swearing and bleeding fingers. ****ing ****ish ****ing piece of **** No amount of boiling water and Fairy Liquid could help!

Got any piccies of the arches?

Not a good look at all IMO. Reminds me of an old Ford Sierra that someone has welded up the sills on for the MOT and slapped Underbody Seal on the entire length of the sill in order to 'try' and disguise it. - - - Updated - - - Not a good look at all IMO. Reminds me of an old Ford Sierra that someone has welded up the sills on for the MOT and slapped Underbody Seal on the entire length of the sill in order to 'try' and disguise it.

The trouble with arches are, like sills, chassis rails and other box sections,, they rust from the inside out. The rot will between the skins and what may look like surface rusty will actually be deeper. No amount of rubbing down or rust treatment will stop it, I'm afraid it will need to be cut out otherwise it will come back. If not immediately, it will definitely come back after a winter. The only time I personally would suggest rubbing down and treating would be for things like stone chips on the bonnet, door edges where paint has been chipped off, or areas where something corrosive has eaten through the paint and attacked the metal, like battery tray area (unless it was caused by general age related corrosion).

Brakeaway.... :)

Sounds ok....they look and sound like the HKS Hi-per....personally don't like the 'spud cannon' look they have and they won't fit your bumper at all.

The door trim is pressed onto the top of the door skin. Wind the window down. Remove the wing mirror. At the back on the inside facing part of the door pillar, there's a small screw that holds the rear part of the moulding to the door. Remove that and you can gently tease up the door trim. I found it best with the window down and the door card off and you can pop it off bit-by-bit with a flat blad screw driver from the inside. Do not do it from the outside as the moulding will bend and distort. You have to be very gentle with it. The rear quarter mouldings are slightly different and can sometimes be harder to do. They're snapped on to plastic clips which are clipped to the glass before bonding, but the rear part of it is actually bonded onto the seal. On some cars though, this has deteriorated and they two become seperate. (otherwise you need to carefully seperate the seal from the trim). You need to carefully prise these upwards (large plastic scraper is probably best for this). I think there are 3 or 4 clips where it's attached. It can be quite difficult. I stripped my car myself before it went for paint and I took the windows out completely.

Mine are just faint. Not spotty.....here....shite!

Yeah, I wanna stick with plain white. I just want it crisp looking rather than all sorts of colours. The ones I fitted in mine were these type....and they're junk. - - - Updated - - - Thanks for the link! :)

What LEDs did you fit before hand? T10 and 501 are the same thing I think. I fitted T10 and the light is rubbish. I have it sat next to me....just sticking my fingers in the holes! lol. I think I could get these in it actually which would sit directly next to the light pipes.