Funkysi

Few extra bits collected from the powder coaters. Just some further parts from the platers and I'm almost ready to send it to Jimmer to go under the knife! Few minor modifications to the intake manifold and I'm there. This is pretty much all the tin work from the engine bay that hasn't already been powder coated. Anything else like the bracket for the battery harness and the one for the relay on the inner wing next to the CC module is being cadmium plated. I have some further new old-stock hoses coming over from Japan (I don't care for silicone hoses) and some additional OEM bolts from the US.

Which he listed as a series 1 as well. :lol:

I see one person here being resonable and another being insulting. Let it lie please. :thumbup:

Higher proportion as a ratio than who voted in the Brexit referendum. :lol:

:lol: How the hell did that happen!? :lol:

No really, they're different and will look different. Very odd decision, but each to their own.

Why would you do that? You have chrome bezels around the reverse lights on the 99-spec centre panel and none on original, it will look completely miss-matched. :confused:

Maybe I'm missing something here but are you putting a 99 spec rear panel on with original rear lights!?

Congratulations Nick, well done! You've been through thick and thin with this car and you've popped out the other side with it head heald high. See you some point later this year I'm sure!

No more or less reliable than a VG. The VG is actually a reliable unit when well maintained. The only real benefit I can possibly see is the weight of the thing. VG has an iron block and the VQ has an alloy block. A Twin Turbo modified VQ is likely to be less reliable and significantly more expensive than a VG30DETT.

As mentioned, when I change the temperature, I can hear a motor working behind the dash, so can assume that that part of the system is working correctly, so I believe it would either be a broken or disconnected rod/arm.

Heat position. I'm S1 also, so have no air direction other than screen or non-screen.

Jeff, thanks, no I can't hear it clicking but can hear the motor. Ian, I don't think it's the ECU as the control is making the actuator work. I'll pull out this glove box at the weekend. Thank you all.

Has anyone suffered zero heat from their heater system? My actuator can be heard working so I can assume that something has become disconnected or broken preventing the blend door from opening to let hot air in. I can't remember from when I did a dash pull and want to avoid it if I can (although it's a fairly easy job what side the actuator is on. In photos of LHD cars they're the passenger side, so can assume that they're mirrored for RHD Z32s? FSM gives me the following: It states manual air conditioner but there are solenoids present so I'm slightly confused. Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Did you need to do a dash pull? What was broken or had the rod become detached from the actuator?

.....and no, you wouldn't be quite at the top Paul, but LOL :lol: especially after all the mess I cleared up about you on Facebook. :lol:

I know someone who would win it by a country mile, however, if nominated, an ungodly shit storm would ensue. :lol:

You're just bitter about those awful dump valves. :lol:

They ruin an otherwise glorious exhaust note.

If they're making that noise then they're screwed. :lol:

^^^^ this x 1million!!!

Original or 99-spec front bumper would finish off the car externally. :)

Had to disassemble the central part of the throttle assembly today as I'd put the spindle the wrong way round! Bit of fun beating it out and back in again. Totally destroyed my rubber mallet! All reassembled and now bolted to the manifold with replated OEM fasteners. Slightly fiddly, but happy with the result. :) Considering this is what it pretty much looked like before, I think it's come up pretty well.

Throttles partly rebuilt. Turns out the spare shims and spacers I had were junk. I've ordered a replacement kit from Z1, so I'll refit everything when that comes in. Happy with how it looks though. Serviced and refinishing the spare S2 CAS I have. Main bracket and CAS backing were anodising with a natural anodised finish and the sections were then painted. The trigger wheel was gently cleaned and then it was all reassembled. The contact surfaces were left bare (apart from the anodising) and was treated to an aluminium grease - this bugger will never seize! Those of you with a keen eye will notice that the bolts are not the correct ones. These are NLA at so need to take the newish ones that are already on mine and get those replated to a cadmium finish.

Missing a few little parts if anyone has any of these laying around or a tired old throttle body. Condition is not important as they'll be refinished. You can't buy these individually, so hoping someone has one/other/both. 1 stopper 1 spring (the smallest on the TB housing which sits in a tiny spindle which the main throttle spindle sits).

Fortunately I have some spares in bits, so it's not too difficult. :)