Royal

If you've over filled with oil then the pressure will be high inside the engine and it will push oil out of any dodgy seals. Its quite common for the rear crank seal to go because of this (gearbox off to fix :( ) If you are overfull by a lot then I'd drain a little out, if its just a little then you'll prob be fine. I'm not sure of the best stuff to do a bodge fix with, I think it would have to be something a bit more substantial than liquid gasket. Maybe the window sealant stuff that people do the engine sumps with? Best to ask one of the traders maybe, as I'm not an expert and just guessing at what might work. Either way it will be a bit of a bodge fix, but at least you don't have to spend all day dismantelling the engine. I'd get it done properly as soon as you can though.

Not that I've ever heard of although may be wrong? I have heard the noise on other cars so maybe someone will pipe up. I think slick petes car had a similar noise when we were at Brunters?? (sorry if it isn't you Pete, just remember hearing it and thinking it was like mine)

Might be worth speaking to TonyC, I think they were like that when he put them in?

I hate those clamp things that nissan use on the tubes. Whats wrong with jubilee clips (is that the right name, the ones with screws on?) is what I say? :)

yes, thats the power steering pump. Have a look here: http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=em&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=6&design=default&total=70

You'll lose more oil and it'll smoke more when it falls on to the turbo pipes (assuming that is the problem). You could do a temporary fix with some liquid gasket type stuff on the outside, but its not that good. You see lots of old zeds where someone has done this as a quick fix.

Are you getting it all the time? it pretty much stopped doing it for me once the weather warmed up. I'll get the alternater and power steering belts off to you ASAP (and the coolant adapter thingy). Hopefully they will sort it out once and for all.

Love the front of your car Coopers-SWB, I think you're bumper and the 99spec ones are the best looking around. Thats an awful place to put your number plate though, it'll cut off half the air to the rad and contribute to the engine over-heating :(

Nice phots mate. My missus has to work all weekend so we couldn't come.

If he's just been fitting discs then the brakes wont need bleeding as they wont have been touched. BMC as you say sounds the most likely? Its a bit odd though?? Maybe take him a copy of the workshop manual brake chapter?

Fair one. Congratulations on finding such a low milage one if thats the case. It would be the lowest milage Zed I've ever seen :) If the mechanics think its genuine then you really have picked up a beauty, as its only age associated problems that makes zeds go for so cheap. They are one of the best road cars out there otherwise.

Hello mate, welcome to the club. Lots of good people here. Dave ps - Don't mean to be pessimistic, but think your car has been clocked! 16yr old cars that need a replacment exhaust will have done at least 60k, most likely 112k! Somehow I don't believe someone could spend £30k on a car and only do 750 miles a year!

I did it myself on my first zed, there's nothing particuarly complicated. There's just lots of little bits to remember, and there's also lots of bits that can break as you take them apart (inject./coil connectors, all the hoses, and bits like that). Its quite an involved and frustrating job to do, lots of awkward bolts and hoses to get at as usual with the zed. If you rely on the car for work then maybe get a pro to do it, but if you can leave it in the garage whilst you buy new hoses and things then I'd do it myself. If you fancy doing your own work and have all the tools then its a good place to start as you get to know the engine bay layout a bit.

Tein (most models) are a very good suspension but mostly track orientated. Lots of people find them too stiff for the road. Maybe you could swap with someone? or if you can find what model they are you'll probably be able to get enough to pay for some new softer ones. Smithy does the kyb ones for £300. Tein are very expensive to buy so you may get enough.

They are a plenum off job, you take off the plenum and all the gubbins that goes with it. Then take off the rocker covers. I can't remember very clearly what else you'd do at the same time, but certainly the rocker cover gaskets. I'd also replace all the little hoses while you are at it. The turbo coolant hoses down the back of the engine which you can probably reach a bit better then also. I'd need to look at the workshop manual to remember all the other bits to replace while you are there, but you should definately do them if this is the problem. edit - I'll have a look and get back to you as I can't remember if the rocker covers get you to the cam seals or not. Here you go: http://300zx.co.uk/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=em&dir=&config=&refresh=&slide=26&cycle=off&scale=0&design=default&total=70 You can see the rubber bung at the back of the cam shaft area. You should also do the rocker gasket. I'd strongly recommend doing as many of the hoses around the plenum and rear of the engine as possible while you are there as it takes many hours to get the plenum off, and you'll knacker lots of tubes and things. If you havn't changed them then your pcv valve pipes will crack (might as well change pcv's?? as well). Basically do some homework and try to change everything that could need doing as pulling it apart will guarantee problems if you re-use old hoses and stuff.

Cam seal probably? The black half circle rubber behind the engine/cam area.

Its probably just the angle of photo? I often notice the zed looks unusual from certain angles. It was why I mentioned it earlier though, the perspective looks emphasized in that photo? rear wheels look too big.

http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible.html This is a brilliant web page. Scroll to the bottom to see explainations of all the ebay type myths ,magnets on your fuel lines, petrol ionizers (!?), etc My favourite it the holographic sticker that sticks to the bottom of your fuel tank!!! :headvswal The MPT SmogBuster™ Status : Untested fuel disc Websites : fueldisc.com and/or fuel-disk.net If I started this paragraph by telling you that a device projected "holographic frequencies into the gas tank and changes the molecular structure of the gasoline" what would you think? Well it seems that plenty of people think enough of that statement to cough up $299 for a plastic disc with some fancy silk-screen printing on it. The idea is, apparently, that the molecularly-changed fuel (!) burns more efficiently thus giving you better gas mileage and less emissions. It's about the size of a US quarter or a UK 10p piece and is supposed to - wait for it - be taped to the underside of your gas tank. The website even helpfully suggests that superglue could be used. From the Denverpost.com : "It doesn't work," says Dr. Terry Parker, a physics professor at the Colorado School of Mines. Parker and graduate student John Dane of the chemistry department tested the device for 9News. "It's clear that it's just a sticker and nothing else," Dane said. What should set alarm bells ringing with this device is that it's sold through multi-level marketing, the new buzzword for pyramid selling. The more of these units you sell, the cheaper they get for you to buy. The best part of the sales pitch is this section : OceanCity Network, Inc. is proud to offer a 30 day 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied. To qualify for a full refund, the MPT SmogBuster™ must remain adhered to the paper in which it was shipped on.. Great - so if you unstick it and use it, you can't get your money back. However, they add that to test it, you can simply duct-tape the thing to the gas tank, complete with it's backing paper. So even if the device was electrical (which the silk-screen printing might lead you to believe), putting a piece of paper in the way would prevent it from making any contact with the metal of your tank. I also suspect that trying to remove the duct tape from the fuel disc without removing the fuel disc from the backing paper is going to be next to impossible. One last point to note : most fuel tanks are covered in a rubberised underseal protection - there's no metal to stick this thing to in the first place.....

I think the weather is going to be fine up there this weekend.

Its a bit of an odd angle isn't it? Is it just me or do the rear wheels look way too big? I do like black zeds though, right bugger to keep clean! That does look nice though.

Ssswwwwweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeetttttttttt!

If you wear them for more than three days (right way in, inside out, and upside down :) ) then you'll get gangreen and your feet will fall off.

Yep I'm more than likely going to be a saddo! It was funny because to start with I had to work on Sat and Sunday but then two days ago it got cancelled so I was thinking 'awesome we can go to JAE!' But now the missus has to work both days DOH!!! I'm not too depressed though as I've got North Weald airfield drivers day, a London Prowl meet with the rx7 guys, and the Isle of Man TT course (closed to the public if we get enough interested, but no speed limits anyway so should be awesome. We'll also do the circuit there), and track time at trax :), oh and prob the brunters charity day haha sorted, hope I can afford it. All those in the next 3 months!!

do a search for znuts threads, I posted the details for the resister mod. Plenum (intake manifold) off takes maybe 3 hours if you havn't done it before. You remove the fuel connections, the coil connectors, inj connectors,most of the big vac pipes, the egr pipe connections on either side, coolant connections at rear side, tubes at rear, the list goes on.... You are better off doing the resister mod if you've no other reason to take it apart. You'll probably develop issues after pulling apart all the old cooked wires and pipes.

30 in a couple of weeks, just sold the zed as I'm getting older than the average!! :)