Dazsw

That's vehicular weaponisation!

I've got ES diff support bushes and rear subframe bushes, bit stiffer but doesn't bother me.

Think I will give one of these a bash as well. Consult is a bit dear so I was also considering the Data Scan as it has most of the functions.

I've always wondered what was causing this ever since I picked this Zed up 3 years ago, finally the answer! My car doesn't have that constant rattle, just when changing from first to second you can get the clunk, also if going very slowly can happen as well on bumpy roads. Not much to be done about it though it seems best to just live with the annoyance. My first Zed didn't do this, but I remember being told that the clutch fork had previously snapped and been welded, I wonder if something done during that welding fix solved it.

Ahh that's good news, I suspected Nistune would do it all, but wasn't 100% My car is heading to it's garage to hibernate till the Spring shortly, if funds allow I might go for it before it goes away, otherwise early next year mate.

Ahh that's good news, I suspected Nistune would do it all, but wasn't 100% My car is heading to it's garage to hibernate till the Spring shortly, if funds allow I might go for it before it goes away, otherwise early next year mate.

Either later this year or early next year I will be getting a nistune board installed to my ecu. Prior to this I was planning to buy conzult/datascan with the cable for diagnostics. If I have a nistune board installed and get the nistuen software, does this allow you similar diagnostics, or do I still need to buy one of the others?

I would be considering taking a hammer or similar to the garage people that did the original dodgy work.

I have owned 2 Zeds, and driven another 2, and all 4 have always idled similar to this! Current car is much better than the others but very occasionally when the car is idling it jumps to 1500 before coming back down again, can go for weeks without doing it.

The price is high, but that's up to him, doesn't do me any damage. As for sending a snidey email to the seller, all I can say is, what age are you mate, 5?

How was that baby running?

I think if an extra couple of hundred quid insurance is that much of a problem then I don't see how you can justify owning a Zed or any other performance car for that matter as servicing/repairs etc will cost you way more.

Cheers lads, will go for a bar and leave it there till it gets re-mapped and setup properly.

I did on Wednesday mate, no reply yet, that's why I am now asking here to see if anyone else can help.

Hi guys, My car has a Zedworld chip that was fitted around 6 years ago. I only know this as their is a receipt for it in amongst my folder of service history. My query is this, what boost level do these chips fuel to?

Swapped the valve round today and also adjusted the hoses as instructed, still didn't control boost! I then decided to take the bolt out and have a look at the spring, it wasn't sitting straight and instead was curled at a 90 degree angle down into the other valve end, so couldn't do it's job, took it out sat it back in straight, hey presto boost control :)

Cheers mate. Car is in the garage now. Will switch it round and also make the distances equal tomorrow.

The end of the MBC that is inline with the bolt is connected to the two hoses that are t pieced together from the wastegates, and the end that is at a 90 degree angle is t pieced into the boost sensor? I have a pic but can't load it as I'm having trouble, one of those days! - - - Updated - - - Replaced the MBC with a joiner, it's boosting at 9ish PSI.

If I adjust it any further, the bolt will fall out mate, it's near the end already. So remove the MBC, then would I remove the 2 t pieces and use a joiner in place of the two of them?

So installed the aftermarket boost gauge today. Screwed the bolt out so that would boost be be lower or so I thought, then I could screw in and get the boost to 14psi, but on the first try it went right upto 15 and would have kept going. Is there anything else I can to get the boost lower as other than screwing the bolt out to lower boost there doesn't seem to be?

If your car can get to 400bhp without the 555s and without running lean on stock injectors, then why bother changing them? Over in the USA they seem to get much more power out of standard blocks/injectors than we think possible in the UK, slowly that is changing though.

Noz has achieved over 400bhp on standard tubs mate, if you are only looking for that kind of power, I personally would just get a good proper remap with the minor mods required for 400bhp rather than the expense of engine out and new turbos.

It's chipped and setup for a bar of boost, but will be getting a remap of some kind in the near future once funds allow.

Does the car go ok? If so just leave it be :)