Dazsw

There is always something mate. You'll get it sorted in time.

I'm not sure what it would be like on a Zed. But one of my mates used to have a 515bhp Scooby which he had spent 20 odd grand on. The speed of this thing was unreal, but it was so horrible to drive it really wasn't usable on a day to day basis.

Mobil 1 Super 3000 5w/40.

Personally once something has been painted with an oil based paint, I never change it back, unless I was completely stripping the material bare again.

If you are unsure, send them to me, I will test them, you may not get them back if they work though lol.

Interesting thread, I agree with Noel here. Simply due to reading that the guys in the USA with tons of expereince in this subject, Greg Dupree, etc give similar information. Plenty of research means good reliable information for us guys. Infact in the USA they rate the standard blocks to very high power levels without any mods, up until a few years ago on here I was told rebuild the engine if you want over 400bhp!

I will be getting the car Nistune'd next year. Already got a new fuel pump. I'm now looking for a set of 555s to complement the other mods? Cheers.

There are quite a few sets going on ebay just now. Is it just jecs 555 side feed injectors I'm after?

So the car is off the road till the Spring. In the meantime I am planning ahead. I sent the ECU to Noz and it has had a nistune chip fitted. Also got an uprated 320lph fuel pump. Next thing is injectors. I don't think I want mega power, well not yet anyway, just safe reliable power, so the fuel pump is good for very high hp, so I need injectors which will be good for higher power, but will work fine at a reduced duty rate for my current needs. I'm thinking 470 or 555s? JECS seem to be plentiful are would these do?

Sorry to hijack the thread, I have idle issues occasionally (when cold idles at 1600 or so, eventually drops once warm) and my car was also a former auto which was converted to manual before I owned it. Using datascan I seen the timing was at 25 BTDC, could this be the cause of the problem?

I use Mobil 1 Super 3000 all year round, it is well within the spec of even a Scottish winter.

My agreed value is 5k, 10k seems high although I wouldn't say no to that myself lol, is your car heavily modded?

No joy mate. I went into the back of a Micra at about 5mph in my first Zed, the other guy got out and looked and said his car was ok and drove away, I assumed (wrongly) my car was also ok. Half a mile up the road I'm wondering what the strange noises are from the car. Pull over to find my front dumper is destroyed! I also had cheap front tyres. Now it's Pirellis all the way.

Still playing around with Data scan lol. After the car is warmed up my AAC valve is operating at around 20-22, the car idles at 730ish, the TPS reports 0.42. From reading other threads once warm the AAC should read 15? It's ok most of the time but from cold it can idle sometimes at 1600 ish which I think is high, but then comes down as it warms. Occasionally it also does a bit of hunting, or if you come to a junction and stop the revs stick at around 11-1200 for 5-10 seconds before coming back down again. I've came across loads of threads regarding adjusting idle but they all give conflicting information. From the experienced people what is the best way to get the idle set correctly?

Yeah com port was ok, was a cheap crappy Chinese cable that was the problem. Sent that back for a refund and got an ecutalk cable which works great. I have the other rhs o2 sensor up on the data display, it constantly sits at about 25 as well. Very annoying thing about it is, when my decats got fitted about 2 years ago I gave them brand new o2 sensors to fit, but they gave me them back saying they didn't have to fit them......and I just sold them for pennies on ebay. I think when the car gets mapped in April/May after it's winter hibernation I shall get them to alter the map so that the o2 sensors are not used. From what Noz says running the car with the sensors disconnected causes it to over-fuel a fair bit.

Just been playing around with Datascan now that I have a working cable. I have noticed that when cold the O2 sensor reads 15, this slowly drops to about 5 once the car is warm, Sitting at idle it never jumps up and down like I see other people say it should. Does this mean one or both are broken?

So I had a Zed with rubbish brakes, well IMO. Changed the discs and pads all round then bled the system and changed the fluid. Brakes better but still not great for a performance car. Front brakes upgraded to K Sport 330mm kit, massive difference, braking system is now tremendous.

ECU talk cable was £70 delivered and works perfect.

Update. Cable arrived with a cd that was no use. Downloaded the drivers mentioned above and it worked once. Never worked again though. FTDI the company that makes the software has now changed all their software so that the "clone" chips from China no longer work as they have banned the chip PID. So I returned my cable and have instead ordered a cable from ECU Talk which uses a legitimate FTDI chip so will work ok. I'm sure the Chinese boys will find a workaround but I can't be bothered with the hassle.

And I disagree, the standard Zed brakes are garbage for a performance car mate.

Is your car a uk car or a jap import? The import brakes are crap unless you upgrade for bigger discs/calipers. Even the standard UK brakes are rubbish. Even with upgraded but not bigger discs/pads my first Zed was still not great for braking. Current Zed has uprated K Sport items which make a huge difference.

Welcome mate. The Shetlands, can't imagine their are many Zed specialists up there mate, so hope your Zed is a good one!

Helpful links mate, thanks :)

I got it to connect with the cable and laptop that I have now, it was connected in the morning all ok, but then after the cable/connector felt looser it didn't work. I plan to have a look around again tomorrow, hopefully it is something easy to resolve.

Recently purchased a consult cable which has the consult connector and a usb cable to attach to the laptop. On having a look at my consult port it seems the wiring has been modified, I assume this has to do with the switch that someone installed that allows you to check for ecu error codes if you turn the switch on. I am not sure what wires should be conncted to the consult port but I do think some may be loose, not connected. I purchased the full version of nissan datascan, when I initially hooked it up, it worked, I could see the ecu and also check the engine parameters and all was well. Later I tried to connect again, but since the initial connection it has never worked, but I also noticed the consult port seems looser and not as tight as before which leads me to believe some wires may be loose/not connected as I explained earlier. So, is there any way I can test it to see if it's working? Or can someone show a wiring diagram so I can see what wires should be attached to the consult connector on the car, and in what order? Thanks guys.