redwine300

Looks like the weather may be promising. The jet stream is travelling north of the UK so may mean warm air and high pressure coming from the south east. Hope it hangs around long enough for the weekend.

I think I am beginning to understand things a bit clearer now. My reference to the pulley marking may not be relevant, as this relates to ignition timing and not valve timing? It is the marking on the crank itself thats important! It may well be off TDC when setting valve timing so as to put the valves in a safer condition, hence the timing mark on the pulley showing BTDC. (just a theory I hasten to add) Again, I am only trying to understand myself so please do not take my comments as read. I am merely putting my thoughts forward for clarification and discussion.

Me too. I have everything in place, I would just like to understand the exact layout so as to detect the leak. It would also help me locate the location of the overall system.

This is not to contradict anyone, it is just for my understanding. I would have thought that as the crank pulley's primary function would be to indicate TDC then surely it would line up the timing marks as 0 to 0? From this point would it not be correct to then align the relevant cam markings? As I say, this is something I would like to understand and I am open to correction/education.

That's a good price mate. I can personally vouch for the quality as I have fitted these myself from the same supplier. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/thanks-everyone.15465/page-4

Wiesmann Gecko?

That is sad to hear!

I know that these type of fans can be a little frustrating, but once they are working correctly they really do work well. I had issues with mine initially, but after a little work all is fine now. As Andrew said previously, the fan should only really engage at normal running temperature at speeds below 30mph. This is when the incoming air from forward movement is insufficient to give the necessary cooling, this then in turn activates the thermal spring which will rotate a delicate valve within the coupling releasing viscous oil so as to engage the fan. (thus maintaining good engine temp') Once forward speed is above 30mph (there abouts) the spring is then cooled by the incoming air so as to close off the internal valve. Once the existing oil is dispersed by centrifugal force, the fan will then disengage. One of the main reasons for this to fail is that due to the spring and shaft being in direct line of fire to all elements, the shaft may have become seized either in the open condition or the closed condition. One possible cure could be to remove the coupling and soak the spring and shaft with releasing agent over a couple of days. Be very carefully though if you rotate the shaft by hand as the shim type valve is very delicate and will damage very easily against it's internal stops rendering it useless. (it should only rotate about a quarter of a turn MAX! from stop to stop, do not force it to move) Please be carefull.

Happy Birthday Graham...:happybday:

Once you do get her running well on all 6 cylinders, I would strongly advise finding a way of physically checking the timing by way of a strobe. Data Scan will tell you what the ecu is seeing reference engine temp' etc' and making the calculations accordingly, it does not mean that your timing is necessarily correct though. You will need to use a strobe to check it when the engine is at normal running temperature.

Like you say, it would be great to get the opportunity and time to restore the NA to near perfect condition. After all, it sounds like it would not take too much to get the TT roadworthy. Gets my vote.

Should the black screw grommet be in the wing? That way the screw attaching the bumper to the wing passes through the hole in the support bracket.

Fantastic thread JaiKai! Very inspirational. :thumbup1:

I had a similar problem with USB cable to laptop using DataScan. I eventually managed to update the drivers by connecting everything up and powering everything up until seeing the same error. I then went into device manager which showed the port had a driver fault, once updated it worked fine. Hope this helps.

:happybday: Have a good day Russ.

Tell her to concentrate on the ironing. :lol::lol:

Any pictures ?

Wtf?

Damn. To late.

Think the tester got it wrong with regards to vehicle model. He has put her through as a 350Z which is incorrect. As the 300zx does not apear on the data base, he should have run it through the B.E.T. as regards emissions. At least any exhaust related results may have been OK

:drool:

Si, you may already do this, but when I have fitted door cards in the past, I leave the plastic snap in poppers that secure the door card until I have hung it. This way I find it less likely to snag them on the wiring, or worst still, puncture one of the speaker diaphragms. It also helps to prevent knocking the plastic mounting pillars off the card. I then lay down and snap the little blighter's into the pillars and pop the card to the door.

From my understanding it looks OK. There is supposed to be a small gap so as to allow a small amount of air from cold so as to aid start. What happens then after the engine is running is voltage is applied to a heater within the unit which in turn closes the disc with the aid of the spring, thus cutting of the air. I think it should take about 30 seconds or so, by which time the other valve takes total control of idle. ps is there a base idle screw in the second unit? it looks to be missing. Or have you removed it?

I think you can just disconnect the yellow connector from the top aluminium water hose. Front and center of engine as you look at it.

So near and yet so far. I can not believe I had parked next to you and didn't get to say thanks for all the help and advice you (and many others) have offered to date. Thanks.