redwine300

Ditto! :thumbup1:

Phew! That looked close to disaster. Good catch.

:lol::lol::lol:

:lol: I do say! :lol:

I know I might be be being daft, but that picture just has to be upside down!:lol:

Hi Russ, I would imagine any missing pipe-work would/could affect your idle, especially when coming off throttle etc' As for boost? I don't really know, but sounds as though it would be a potential boost leak. As for smoking with asthma, well I think you know the answer to that one mate! Stick with the quitting. You will never regret it mate. By the way, are you coming up for the Coventry meet? It would be great to meet up.

Post #2 and #6 :whistling:

I get what you are saying now, good point. Maybe we need more detail as to what he means by off. Could be the electrical fan playing up due a faulty connection? I made the assumption that the noticeable roar of an engaged viscous fan drops off as the coupling disengages but still rotates under drag.

I thought the original post referred to the Viscous fan? This is the fan I was referring to also in my reply.

With regards to the fan being engaged from a cold start up, this could be considered normal under certain circumstances, such as if you had shut her down the previous day whilst being at full temp and the fan had reason to be engaged. (say sitting at idle for a minute or so) Once started from cold, the residual oil causing the fan to be engaged would quickly be dispersed via centrifugal force so as to disengage. The main thing to bare in mind is that once she is up to temperature, after 30 seconds at idle the fan should then cut in. Once you move off however, the forward motion should at around 30MPH and above be sufficient to cool the cooling system thus allowing the fan to again disengage. As for the oil sender and gauge, try looking in the traders section and ask Mike at MJP autos. I take it that yours is intermittent? Mine was initially, but after a valve lifter treatment and a good oil change, normal function has been restored. Hope that helps.

Thanks Guy's Your help and advice is very much appreciated. I have taken it all on board and hope to have a second attempt next week. All I have to do in the mean time is remove my first attempt!

Congratulations! Just managed to scrape mine through last week so know how you feel.

Nice one! Maybe we could park next to each other so as to share the attention. :lol::lol: I will be interested to hear how you get on with the Nissan spray paint though.

I get what you are saying Richard, it's just that the original paint in contrast to the newly applied paint is far brighter. Almost a pure white. Not as if it has faded, which I could understand. My picture dose not really show the difference in shade. I am not convinced as yet that my 326 code does not refer to Super White as the link, although it appears to be a US specification. Looks like I will have to get it matched somehow. Could they match it if I took my petrol flap in as a sample?

So are you saying that if Halfords were to mix me 326 it would match, even though the same graded aerosol can is way off? I am reading that the coding itself is a bit missleading as it can cover several shades. Does my link sugesting mine is could be Super White not bear this out?

Car is still in original paint. I have known this car most of it's life. Looks like Halfords paint maybe the problem, but having said that, I think mine may be classed as Super White which is probably where I am going wrong. http://www.xenonz32.com/colorchart.html#1 http://www.xenonz32.com/Images/Colorchart/Exterior/326.gif

My year is 1992 (uk model) Below is a picture of my VIN plate. Is the "G" significant?

I am in the middle of trying to tidy up my Zed so as to look a bit decent at the Coventry show. (I fear it may be the worst one there if I don't do something!) I have been using Arctic white 326 from Halfords but it doesn't match, seems a bit creamy. Not bright white at all! Can someone help me identify the correct paint code please?

so, as I understand it then, the cross member is welded in. Spot welded I am guessing. Has anyone done this themselves and can break down the stages I will need to through. I know where it is, but has anyone got any photos showing the the fixing points etc' Can this be done with the engine in?

As the title. Just managed to scrape an MOT due to a corroded front cross member amongst other things. Is it a big job to replace this with a new OEM one? Are they bolted in or welded into place? Hopefully the former. Any advice would be very welcome.

Mmmm. Scraped a pass. Advisories... Leaking rear shocks. Corroded brake lines. Corroded through front cross member. (fail next year if not remedied) As a mate has just said, a pass is a pass I suppose.

Go with the head mate. In a week a so's time you will probably be looking at a different Zed and thinking, wow! I'm glad I walked away. But at the end of the day, it's your decision mate. ps It's a pretty crappy repair by the way.

Checked her over ready for the dreaded MOT. Saturday at 1:00pm

Generally speaking an engine flush should be added to existing oil and ran for no more than 20 minutes. Then drain the oil whilst stil warm. I then put a cheaper oil through a couple of times, again for about 20 minutes before finishing off with the expensive stuff. Did this to mine not long back and the oil still looks like new, mind you it has only done a couple of hundred miles and I am confident it is very clean. By the way, try not to add fresh oil to a hot/warm engine.

Personaly, the only thing I would put in a decent engine is a decent oil. Sorry.