lonezedder

Thanks Chaps!

When was the last time it had a new radiator cap? It could be as simple as that and for roughly £10 for a genuine one worth a try?

Hi. Looking to fit an new OEM oil pressure sender over the weekend. My question is do I apply anything to the threads of the sender before screwing it back to the car? Like PTFE or what ever? Thanks...

Hi. As anyone bought the cheap Ebay Consult USB leads and had any success? I have recently bought 2 sorts... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-OBD-diagnostic-consult-infinity-S14-RNN14-VQ30DE-/230631879339?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item35b2bb32ab http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Consult-Diagnostic-OBD-USB-Interface-14-Pins-Scanner-Tool-For-Nissan-/300772340513?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item46076db321 I have tried them both with 2 different laptops with no joy. I have faffed about with com port settings to try and get them working, but no joy. I just keep getting error opening com port messages, the computer sees the USB adaptor, but not the car. TBH, the 2nd link (CHINA) product seems better than the 1st, the adaptor has an red LED for starters that at least shows there is power. Can anyone shed any light on this? The software is the free consult or Tecu. Cheers...

Can you not simply cut the end of the pipe off that contains the boost jets / welding tips? Assuming the pipe is long enough to connect back to its original point. Otherwise can you screw a self tapper into the end of the jet which will then give you something to pull them out with? A bit of WD40 may help. You might need to drill a bigger hole (3mm?) into the jet before a self tapper will go.

If you've released the pressure in both calipers through the bleed nipples and they are still binding then to me it would still point to a sticking piston/s. I know you've had them apart, but really can't see any other explanation. When you say they are sticking, are they offering proper resistance or is it just the noise of the pads very lightly touching the discs because I don't recall these brakes having any thing to push back against the pistons when released.

Sounds like the tubs to me as well. Yes, I reckon bang some cats back in, that will increase the back pressure enough to stop the leak if its just the beginnings of seal failure. It may solve the problem long term, it did with my last car.

Nice one! Just remember you are well within your rights to walk away if it is not as described, hopefully you asked appropriate questions via ebay so it is all logged. The worst that will happen is you'll be described as a time waster when it gets re-advertised and you might get a warning from ebay. Fingers crossed though, hopefully it'll be all good!

I'm not sure if you've already seen this, but it should provide the answers. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?126850-Rattling-window

I would expect to see some signs of corrosion TBH, doubtful many, if any have no signs at all. As long as its just light surface corrosion, getting some Waxoyl type product in the cavity should halt its progress and keep it sound.

This one by any chance? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300ZX-Manual-3Ltr-Twin-Turbo-/331237271733

Exactly this! And if you bought a 355 or 360, the amount of money spent of maintaining one of those would be even more eye watering!

Cheers Jeff!

I've recently bought a good 300zx breaker to scavenge parts off as required, but stupidly I've locked myself out this morning. I need to break in, there is no option of using a key or remote locking. I don't want to break a window, but I'm happy to force a lock. Can someone PM me a way to break in, can I simply force a lock with a large screwdriver or is there an even easier way? Thanks...

:D :thumbup:

So sounds like your fog wire is connected to the rear brake lights? Or the side lights? Either way not very good. I would disconnect this feed from the rear lights and connect to one of the centre reversing light bulbs - the drivers side one. Then fit a 21w red bulb and this is deemed ok. I used a couple of bullet type male/female connectors to make the change easily reversible, so everyday but MOT day, I put the feed back to how it was and put a clear 21w bulb in for 2 reversing lights. On MOT day swap the feeds and pop the red bulb in. One of the easier jobs.

Stick with the OEM part. Much cheaper from the States.... http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1883&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=2014060412232786.149.95.124 http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1884&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=2014060412232786.149.95.124

Well it states for RHD. Just email them and confirm if your worried. The pictures conflict a bit because of the clock positioning. It should be on the right side not left, those pictures so both positions. I'd ask to be sure.

Buy and fit a new OEM sender. Job done.

I assume you know they'll stick out rather a lot both front and rear. By comparison, those BBS of mine with effective 10j ET20 rear, 9j ET17 front, stick too much IMO. Even with the bodged roll & flare at the rear they still stuck out and rubbed. The tyres were also slightly stretched. According to an offset calculator the rears will protrude another 4mm on my example rear and 1mm at the front. The front aren't too bad TBH, its the rears that are obviously too much without a proper arch work.

Impressive! I can just about muster that too! The national average is around 65kg I'm led to believe. Seen many lift much more as well!

I wonder why this is up for sale again? Maybe not quite what it seems? Misleading engine bay photo too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1993-NISSAN-300-ZX-TURBO-AUTO-UK-CAR-AMAZING-HISTORY-IMMACULATE-/221447866778?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item338f52499a

Does he really want to lower that nose by 40mm? Won't leave a lot of room for speed humps and the like. I'm having to raise mine back to stock sadly otherwise getting on the drive is difficult and getting into the garage ain't happening! Not with out messing around with planks of wood anyway. Nice wheels BTW!

The GTR R33 calipers bolt straight on to the 300zx although you need the mounting bolts that came with the Brembos. As for the 350Z discs, yes they'll fit, but I think discs have 'offsets' just like wheels and I would bet you need 350Z calipers to fit over the 350Z disc. Best bet buy R33 discs.

Mondo, I know its early days but can you feel a big improvement from the larger discs and extra leverage?