lonezedder

As above, the import low beam bulb needed is H3C. You can use H3 with a minor mod (IMO not worth it as H3C are cheap enough). The low beam are projectors on the 300zx so try your HIDs if they are the right fitment.

^^^Interesting way of looking at it!:rofl: Big blokes tend to pack up and die younger than skinny women.:eek: Sorry!

I could be wrong, but I thought JECS supply the OEM injector? If so, nothing wrong with them!

The box itself...

Here you go...

The control amp is the specific ECU thingy I've mentioned. It is behind the dash to the left of the clutch pedal.

So is the fuse in box by the throttle pedal ok then? So, we'll assume the fan motor is ok, because 0.5v isn't going to power it. You've swapped the relay with a known working one and if the fuse is ok its looking like the control pod or specific ECU. Another silly one, have you pulled the pod forward and checked the wiring/plugs etc?

Get the red badge fitted mate. 99spec and proud of it!:thumbup:

Not really because there are many owners that have had them removed now. I'm not one BTW, I like the Z badge.

Daft question, have you pressed auto. I take it your control pod is a true series 1, which as no directional button just a HI and LO. Just in case, set temp to min, press auto, then press HI, see if it works. If you know all this then I apologise!

Take a look at this.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175063-n-a-fuse-box-markings&highlight=fuses Although I would be surprised if it were a fuse because of the fact it sometimes works again. It could be a problem with the control pod or even the specific ECU which is near clutch pedal behind the dash. Can you remember on the couple of times it did work if the fan sounded healthy enough? I know these cars are getting on, but the electronics are pretty reliable, especially the in car stuff that isn't subjected to the crazy engine bay temps. Maybe the fan motor is faulty?

This is not the case, the later cars were subject to cut backs to make them cheaper to produce as the market got tougher and sales were falling. Certain features which were always standard became optional extras such as digital climate, electric seats and cruise. They even went as far as making the carpets thinner and of a lesser quality! MG/Rover did a similar thing back in 2004.

^^^^ So true! Buying these cars is the cheap and easy part. Making them and keeping them nice isn't. You really shouldn't try to run one of these on a tight budget, sure its possible, but its not likely to end up a nice example. Spend the money wisely, where its needed on keeping the running gear and bodywork healthy rather than loads of unnecessary bling and skimping on the essentials.

Sadly prices on these seem to have rocketed, IIRC they are about £100/corner for genuine OEM. Contact MJP in the traders section to get the latest price and options.

Sadly then its probably not the o2 sensors afterall. Have you swapped out the PTU to check that?

Ha Ha funny this, I've just binned my short shifter for a stock one. I have to agree, the stock shifter is smoother, altogether nicer - IMO.

Do you know if the o2 sensors are ignored at any rev range under full load or is it only at high revs & full load when the system goes open loop??? He hasn't stated full throttle, just thought it worth a try?

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?177609-Misfire-low-revs-light-accelerator-injector

I have just recently been suffering with a similar situation, I have replaced the plugs, cleaned and checked coil pack and injector connectors etc. with no success. I was trying to pin it to one cylinder, but couldn't. I also changed the PTU and checked the MAF. No joy. Anyway, after reading various other threads, one suggestion was a/the o2 sensor/s could be faulting causing a poor mixture and misfire type symptoms. It was suggested to try disconnecting them as the car will run fine without and operate on an ECU average value. I have disconnected them, problem disappeared immediately and has not yet returned. I have done several good trips in the car since and all is well! It is probably only one sensor, can't be bothered to find out which, I'll just change them both in the near future. A very easy thing to try! You should probably notice straight away.

Rears will fit lovely. Fronts will fit ok, *might* get some arch liner rubbing when turning depending on tyre choice. Certainly will look nice with that stance.

Are you talking about the one way valve connected in the vacuum pipework for the clutch booster? That wouldn't have any effect on him not being able to bleed the hydraulics properly would it. If the one way valve isn't fitted you would 'just' find the clutch pedal push back at you when the car is boosting I think, making gear changes not so smooth.

I'd like a sticker as well! Payment sent.

In my experience with chasing under braking steering wheel wobble, it has always turned out to be the discs. If your on stock brakes, then some pattern discs aren't to expensive to eliminate this as a problem. I have replaced bushes and ball joints etc. before coming to this conclusion, because in some cases the discs have been quite new.

Nah, doesn't sound right to me. My current Z with stock brakes are actually pretty good, I certainly don't need to make the pedal hit the floor to make it stop. On my previous Z, I had K-Sport 330mm brakes fitted up front, stock at rear and by God that really braked hard and fantastic with no need for braces or such like. Very powerful indeed! Sounds like you've still got air in there TBH. Have you bled the ABS unit as well and all in sequence? Don't have any input on MC's though, sorry.

Job done! Nice and easy! Raise front end, one short 17mm spanner and a bit of grunt! Next to no oil loss as well. ETA: This was to replace a pattern part item that was fitted only in January this year. It was recording nearly zero pressure at idle and low revs, fine at other times. The previous owner said that's how it was when it was fitted straight away. I believe it is simply poorly calibrated, the pattern part has had minimal mileage on it, so doubt its gone faulty. Fitted the new OEM part and gauge reads correctly at idle and otherwise. Some times the cheap option isn't so cheap after all. Thought this might help someone doing a future Forum search!