lonezedder

Its an idea, but TBH the noise is very central to the car and doesn't appear to be from the rear end.

Its an idea, but TBH the noise is very central to the car and doesn't appear to be from the rear end.

Does look like a good example, but we all know how good photos are at hiding defects. Hopefully its at least close to how it looks on the computer:)

Does look like a good example, but we all know how good photos are at hiding defects. Hopefully its at least close to how it looks on the computer:)

Hi, can anyone help to try and diagnose this noise. I appreciate there will be some guessing, but maybe someone has had this and can say with more confidence? This rattle only occurs at around 1200RPM, by 1500RPM its gone. It only happens under load in any gear, for example turning on to a side street leaving the car in 3rd and then applying some gas. As it passes thru this rev range it rattles like this. The video shows car on stands in 4th gear using handbrake to labour engine at 1200rpm I suspect propshaft (one piece item) or a gearbox issue? It is not heat shields or cats. It doesn't make the noise during over run, in neutral or any other scenario. Any other ideas appreciated!:)

Hi, can anyone help to try and diagnose this noise. I appreciate there will be some guessing, but maybe someone has had this and can say with more confidence? This rattle only occurs at around 1200RPM, by 1500RPM its gone. It only happens under load in any gear, for example turning on to a side street leaving the car in 3rd and then applying some gas. As it passes thru this rev range it rattles like this. The video shows car on stands in 4th gear using handbrake to labour engine at 1200rpm I suspect propshaft (one piece item) or a gearbox issue? It is not heat shields or cats. It doesn't make the noise during over run, in neutral or any other scenario. Any other ideas appreciated!:)

IIRC the factory fog light switch on my JSPEC car brings the front fogs on, but automatically brings the side lights on at the same time effectively over-riding to position 1....I'll go check....yes it does. This was the same on my other Zed too. The mystery continues!

All 3 very nice! Which is your favourite drive?

Indeed! Have a look at this thread, seems I was right there is only one power amplifier fitted in the driver door, this could be the problem... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?149276-drivers-window-not-working&highlight=window+amp Failing that, could it be a faulty driver side switch assembly, maybe the isolation on/off part has failed? Might be worth swapping out the drivers side switch if you have one, but my money is on the amp.

I think there is some sort of power amplifier/relay type box thing in the drivers door that is part of the window control system. Not sure if there is one in the other door, but I don't think so. Maybe this is faulty?

^^^****ers! :2guns:

^^^No, sadly not AC fault diagnosis, it does test the rear wheel steer function though:)

Yes, it doubtful both motors have gone. Its more likely a fault on the control side. Check your fuses as a start.

Ah right I see.:thumbup:

My SWB TT also has that same standard wheel and therefore no cruise control. It happens to be a G reg 1989 too. Wonder if right at the beginning CC was an optional extra which then became standard later. Funkysi, I thought you retro fitted CC to your Zed IIRC?

Yep, plenty of sad tits about! See it all the time on my job, people often trying to reserve small sections of side street outside there houses with cones or signs on the windows. They forget the road belongs to the council and if you pay road tax you can legally park there.

Stick to the original colour IMO, it will look better when opening the bonnet and such. Of course, he'll suggest the glitter paint or flip paint - it will cost a lot more, better for his profits! The other trouble with special paints is if you have any future damage, getting a decent match can be difficult, keep it simple.

For what its worth, I recently changed my oil pressure sender on my t/turbo Z and found it very straight forward. If you're reasonably capable with the tools it won't be a problem.

Nissan DataScan 1 is what you want, it cost $51 to activate it. You will also need a cable to plug in with. This is what I used... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Consult-Diagnostic-14-Pins-Scanner-Code-Reader-OBD-USB-Interface-For-Nissan-/251578652406?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a934196f6 I can only vouch for this one though, I did order a different type of interface which didn't work.

The relatively cheap full version DataScan also has the ability to test the rear steering...that's how I realised my steering angle sensor was out.

Really sorry to hear your sad news. Deepest sympathy, I lost my Dad 4 years ago and its crap time, but slowly it will get easier. Can you not take some holiday to add to the 2 days bereavement leave and give yourself a few days off to be with your family and close friends? Or is it not possible to explain to your manager, there maybe some arrangement that could be made? Often most people are very understanding and helpful in these situations.

With a situation like this, if you happy that you've sorted the boost leaks, why not source a good 2nd hand MAF or borrow one and replace to eliminate this as a possibility which of course it certainly is.

No, they won't fit without significant modifications. Very aggressive offsets, never mind the wheel width!

I don't think you can put a 92 plate on a 90 car, because that makes it appear newer. You can put older plates on a newer car, but not the other way round IIRC.

Very interesting! When connected, my car behaved like a pig under light load, you could drive through it with more throttle. Makes sense with a dead (lazy output) o2 sensor confirmed with DataScan. So what your saying Noz, is that the car can be mapped to run properly without O2 sensor feedback, the sensors can then just be snipped off? How will the car fuel correctly during warm up or will the map mostly compensate for that too? Cheers.