lonezedder

IMO 20" wheels are just too big for the 300zx, even 19" wheels can look too big depending on the style. I was actually just looking at my Z the other day, thinking 18" are right on the limit for proportion, but I have a SWB version. Then there is ride quality, you'd have to fit rubber bands for tyres to maintain the correct rolling radius for the speedo etc. The R35 brakes whilst unquestionable excellent are probably totally unnecessary, of course if they fit under a 19" fair enough, why not! I'd be tempted to look at the 370Z brakes, apparently they'll fit under some 18" wheels, but probably only a few types, but they are supposed to be a massive improvement, the caliper and discs are huge and look at the price! Bargain even new! https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3217

Very nice! Certainly great in silver.

Very nice! Certainly great in silver.

Yep, already got some reasonable rubber to wrap them in. Yes, I had noticed - they look great! I'd order hyper silver if that was an option, just a little unsure about the grey on grey thing?! Fully agree, 18" for me, especially being the SWB car. Cheap enough at that aren't they, at that money its not the end of the world if I hate them after a while. Thanks Guys:)

Yep, already got some reasonable rubber to wrap them in. Yes, I had noticed - they look great! I'd order hyper silver if that was an option, just a little unsure about the grey on grey thing?! Fully agree, 18" for me, especially being the SWB car. Cheap enough at that aren't they, at that money its not the end of the world if I hate them after a while. Thanks Guys:)

Is it the turbo model? I quite like them, but they seem to get slated a lot for being dull? My friend had the MR turbo version - 320bhp from the factory, it wasn't dull! Felt better built and looked easier to work on than a Zed too.

Is it the turbo model? I quite like them, but they seem to get slated a lot for being dull? My friend had the MR turbo version - 320bhp from the factory, it wasn't dull! Felt better built and looked easier to work on than a Zed too.

Hi Guys, just looking for your opinion on these cheapy eBay wheels! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18-GUN-METAL-ST16-STYLE-ALLOY-WHEELS-FITS-NISSAN-GTS-91-98-/271580300476?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item3f3b7284bc I would be fitting proper bolt on Eibach 15mm spacers all round - I already have these and are new/never used otherwise I might have used 20/25mm spacers. The effective offset and sizes would then be.... 8.5" ET25 front with 235/40's 9.5" ET27 rear with 265/35's Unsure if gun metal grey 6 spoke will look good on my gun metal SWB? Any thoughts or pics of example appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Guys, just looking for your opinion on these cheapy eBay wheels! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18-GUN-METAL-ST16-STYLE-ALLOY-WHEELS-FITS-NISSAN-GTS-91-98-/271580300476?pt=UK_CarParts_Acc_Wheels_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET&fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item3f3b7284bc I would be fitting proper bolt on Eibach 15mm spacers all round - I already have these and are new/never used otherwise I might have used 20/25mm spacers. The effective offset and sizes would then be.... 8.5" ET25 front with 235/40's 9.5" ET27 rear with 265/35's Unsure if gun metal grey 6 spoke will look good on my gun metal SWB? Any thoughts or pics of example appreciated. Thanks.

Yep, can be mapped to run without, but apparently a time consuming process. Running without does make the car run richer, but as a temporary situation it causes no problems, it seems some people have run without them plugged in for a long time without issue. I do naff all miles in mine anyway, certainly not in winter, I'll be getting mine changed soon when I place an order from the US.

You need to alter your DataScan tool to display both O2 sensor outputs so you can compare. My current Z has a failed sensor, with DS set to read both the output on one swings wildly with a few revs which is correct, the other sits still, can't remember at what value, but that means its dead or lazy. I've currently unplugged both to get a static ECU average value to get me by as in my case the car runs like crap with one dead sensor, but only during the warm up period. I would say one of yours is on the way out from what you've said. Take it your com port wasn't duff after all? IIRC, the default O2 sensor reading is for the LHS, you have to call up the RHS sensor reading.

Bugger!

Perfectly balanced wheels and quality spacers fitted to nice clean hubs should result in no wheel wobble, but yes, if there are any slight issues they will be accentuated with the fitment of spacers. They also add more stress to the bearings too. I have fitted them in the past, with no problems though.:)

Wow. £10k! That's very good.:)

IMO machining the wheels is a bad idea because there is no way of knowing what effect it will have on the strength of the wheel, you can be sure it WILL weaken them, but by what degree is the question? And a wheel failure at speed could well be devastating! IIRC, 15mm bolt spacers are not deep enough to hide the retaining nuts if you know what I mean. The tops of the nuts stick out further than the surface of the spacer so even cutting the studs down with these is not an option unless you also trim the nuts - don't! 20mm spacers will probably have the tops of the nuts flush or slightly sunk and would allow stud trimming. Personally, I'd get 20mm spacers and cut the studs if needed, they are easy to replace if needed later, cheaper and safer I'd say than messing with the wheels.

:thumbup1: Always good to hear about service like this. I think I'll get a quote from these guys when I'm ready for new paint.

What effect with this have?

Just to update this thread, I've spent a couple of hours this afternoon removing the tint from my rear screen. I used a hair dryer on full heat, used my fingers to peel a corner then heated the tint as I pulled the film off very slowly. It came off in a couple of large pieces instead of lots of bits, but left a gluey residue all over the glass. To remove the residue, I used about 5 new pan scrubbers and lots of petrol, then glass cleaner & soft cloth to finish off. The pan scrubbers gum up with the residue and quickly lose their effectiveness hence using a few to keep the job fairly easy. The heater bars are completely fine after this procedure and the glass looks like new!:) This job is still a PITA though.

With the engine off, the clutch pedal will be very hard, once the engine has started the pedal should become very easy to press. I'm amazed by how light my clutch is thanks to the vacuum assist, so if you feel it is very heavy then it seems you have a problem, but I would think it would act like you have a boost leak.

He is probably just thinking about how to get the new car home if he doesn't have the means to tax it immediately. On completion of sale, the V5 form will be sent to the DVLA and a tax refund will be issued to the seller. The V5C/2 (green slip) is given to the buyer as proof of being the new keeper. The new keeper can then immediately tax the car via internet, insurance is NOT required at this stage, but obviously is a legal requirement to drive it. But, until the V5 is received by the DVLA, if the car is checked by an ANPR camera it will be seen as taxed under the previous owner and unless previous owner has cancelled insurance immediately the car will show clean. I would imagine the OP is wanting to sorn the new car, but doesn't want to lose a months tax just for the journey home and under that situation, you're unlikely to get stung even though technically illegal. Before the tax change, I sold my previous car. I agreed with the buyer, I wouldn't cancel my insurance until the Monday morning - it was Saturday. This was just to allow him to get the car 30minutes home without the added risk of flagging up. I told him if there was any incidents or fines etc. I would not accept liability, but I understood his reason, his insurance was due to expire the following week, to change the car with current insurance came with a hefty fee, to cancel and restart with new insurance company lost him a years NCB, so he just wanted to get the car home park it up for a week then sort it out. His risk, not mine, cash sale.

^^^ Did the rear heater bars survive this assault? :)

Or... Refurbish your rear end accordingly so that the HICAS can do its job properly. Many people slate the HICAS system, but then most have significantly worn components so it will feel poor. Theoretically, if the HICAS rear end is all tight and fresh, but you still don't like the action of it, then simply unplugging the HICAS solenoid under the bonnet would be enough to disable it and the rear would remain tight and straight, no need for a lockout kit.

On the com port connector, it is possible to briefly bridge out 2 of the connectors to activate the diagnostics mode. http://z32.wikispaces.com/ECU+Diagnostics (half way down the page) Bet that a pair of wires have been connected to the appropriate wires at the back of the com port plug and run to a toggle switch to make activating and checking codes easier. The com port connector is located on a bracket that holds it in place, but it does slide off this bracket to make connection easier, its (slightly) tricky to slide it back on, bet that's why it feels loose. To check the wires at the com port, get your head under there and have a look, it should be clear to see if any thing as come away. Removing the kick panel to the right of the pedals may help, but shouldn't be necessary. As for DataScan, make sure your additional switch is 'open circuit' before trying your laptop - if unsure disconnect the switch and make sure your ignition is on. You say you've already had your laptop connected once successfully? Is this with the recent Consult cable purchase, because my recent purchase required an additional driver to get it working. I ended up getting the seller to send me a replacement because I thought it was faulty, then bought a different eBay cable that also didn't work!! I was convinced at that point my com port was duff, but it was just a laptop driver issue.

Thing is, if you were going to replace your suspension with various adjustable arms, these come with pillow ball ends which replace the stock bushes. These are going to be even more unforgiving than polybushes as there is no bush, just a bearing. This really comes down to personal choice, I'm going to polybush my car and stick with OEM springs and OEM spec shocks probably something like KYB GR-2 / Excel-G's. I feel the ride height is fine stock, especially when I consider my driveway and I don't want adjustable because I'd always faff with it! Coilovers will always firm the ride up more, if you want comfort then it doubtful these are the right choice for you. A reasonable compromise will probably come from the Eibach/KYB AGX shocks Si mentioned, lower slightly & firming up the ride a bit. https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=944

Oddly the uprated Nismo mount is suitable for both the manual and automatic car... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=1223 But the OEM mount is apparently specific... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3340 https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=289 Hope this helps.:)