lonezedder

Good question. I don't actually know! What I do know is that the speed sensor on the gearbox talks to the cluster. The signal then goes from there onwards. From what you've said, you be better simple removing the chip and returning the wiring to standard and fitting a 0-120mph dial face. The only thing with that is the odometer would read in KMs.

Where is this place in Doncaster that work on Zeds? Johnyboy, how many times have you used this guy, what other stuff have you had done?

Speed sensor signal ---> speedo cluster ---> steering ECU etc. Speed sensor signal ---> convertor chip ---> speedo cluster ---> steering ECU etc.

It should return the steering to a normal resistance level. Obviously it is a speed sensitive setup, but fitting a 'convertor' effectively fools the steering ecu and other associated components into thinking the car is travelling 33% slower than it is, so the steering is lighter than it should be. I always found my steering on the lighter side, then I put a UK speedo cluster and it returned every thing to normal.

Power should be clean, powerful and smooth right through the rev range until close to 7k. Take it easy with that engine bud.

Eh? I'd be taking it nice and easy with the engine until its been given the once over by someone clued up. These engines fly over 5000rpm, very rev happy!

Get it all ripped out and returned to stock starting point. Get the car running 100%. Then apply some sensible and well known modifications for decent results.

I really wouldn't bother with the hassle for such a small change. You'll be changing from 280mm to 296mm and I think you'll find the caliper is much the same. Most of the improvement from 'upgraded' brakes comes from the disc size increase and the additional leverage the bigger disc provides the caliper. 280>296 not that much. You can get kits that allow you to use the stock caliper and use 330mm discs or even 345mm discs! Hold out for a notable upgrade, IMO minimum R33/R34 GTR or 350z Brembo using 324mm discs. Although not that cheap unfortunately.

A bit more information for him. Only the R33 GTR Brembos are considered an upgrade, little point in bothering with the R33 GTS brakes - same size. The GTR Brembos use 324mm discs and bolt straight on, the 300zx discs are only 280mm. The R34 GTR Brembos are the same as the 350z Brembos other than the colour. They also use a 324mm disc. The difference here is that the mounting bolts used are 14mm as apposed to 12mm, so to use them requires the hub holes on the car drilling out to 14mm. The actual caliper size is the same in each instance. Important to note is the disc/caliper offsets. You must buy the right discs for the appropriate calipers, although they are all 324mm diameter, the GTR R34/350z Brembos have a different disc offset than the GTR R33 discs. Also worth noting is there is little point in upgrading to the equivalent rears as they are only slightly bigger by the tiniest margin than the 300zx rears unless your doing it for cosmetic purposes or just to have them all matching. Another option is the front R34 GTS brakes. They are not Brembos, but are bigger using 310mm discs. I wouldn't bother myself. Always consider wheel clearances when fitted bigger brakes, the above need minimum of 17" wheels and even then aren't guaranteed to fit due to spoke design etc.

http://www.kgfclassiccars.co.uk/details.php?cid=248

This car was for sale at KGF classics for around £5k not too long ago. It sold, then very quickly ended up on eBay & sold again. Now its at auction, I'd be wondering why nobody has stuck with it recently.:detective: It has always looked like an excellent example on the adverts.

You must sound like a rough un! :lol: Joking aside, a very strange response although I'm sure you'll get a quote without the registration number. I bet most insurance companies won't even differentiate that specifically, it would just be a twin turbo manual 300zx!

Have a look a this one... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Fairlady-300ZX-TT-SLICK-TOP-SWB-1994-Series2-Recent-Service-/301474147918?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4631426e4e Bare in mind its a slick top (no removal panels and only 2 seats) so might not be what you're after though.

I think I would agree with the above. My first thoughts were - nonsense. Doesn't mean its not a nice car though. Its not my cuppa though, some of the kit looks a little poorly fitted and I would think on close inspection it will be far from perfect. Doubtful its only done 41000miles, they are so easy to clock and being an import doubt he can prove it! I viewed many so called 'mint' or 'perfect' examples before choosing my current car and it isn't either so take what you will from that. If its close enough go have a look, bare in mind its been on sale for a month, a real good one IMO will have sold.

Ah, the magical 56k miles. Funny that. Not my cuppa tea, but shouldn't be too hard to return to forma glory. Looks generally quite tidy.

Time for some pics! :)

Wow! You haven't messed about have you! Well done:) What makes you think the clutch is going? Are you getting some slip? Normally a clutch that is ready for changing will start to slip under heavy load. Under normal conditions the clutch will hold, but when you boot it, say in 3rd gear, if the engine revs suddenly shoot up with no real speed/acceleration increase that is clutch slip and indicates worn clutch friction plates.

That'll be roughly 300bhp then!:wink:

Simples!

This is fine, but be aware there are minor differences between an auto engine and manual engine which equate to ~20bhp deficit, this is due to a difference in turbos and camshafts. In reality there is supposed to be negligible difference in performance and doesn't effect the conversion, but being a newbie thought you'd like to know. Cost and time wise, I would aim for ~£500 for the conversion parts and ~£500 for labour costs. Add more if you want the piece of mind some choice new parts might add, like a new clutch kit for example. Time wise, 2days, but you'd probably be better just letting someone keep it for a week, better not rushed. For what its worth, you might like the auto once you'd driven one for a while. They have their advantages and the kick down acceleration is pretty awesome especially on a 'chipped' car.

:drool: Careful guys! The PC brigade might be watching. Caution required!

Careful now, you'll have girl number 3 thinking she's fat!:D Whilst I agree they are some what under weight, they are still pretty hot! Nowt wrong with number 3 though!

Where to start? Check for smoke from cold start through to hot idle and smoke on boost or overrun. The engine should be pretty smooth, with no knocking. Don't worry about the oil pressure reading - many of the gauges read very low especially when the car has warmed up, this is normally just a tired pressure sender unit - I've replaced it on both my Zeds. My major concern when looking was corrosion. Remember body kits are very good at hiding rot. Look every where, but especially the rear sills, rear arch well - particularly where the bumper meets. Also look at the front sills and the radiator support bar. Some get jacked up there and some rot badly. Turret tops under the bonnet can rot. Check the carpets for wetness, especially either side of the centre console as water here normally indicates a leaking matrix - mine was, check cooling system for signs of leak sealer. I could go on! Hopefully others will chip in some more. Otherwise, check just like you should any other car - tyre wear, panel gaps etc. Try to find one with a pile of papers and receipts to help indicate a well looked after car, there are many rough examples with owners would can't really afford to maintain them (properly). A cam belt change with genuine parts would be preferable. They are old cars, will need constant love and they don't use Fiesta parts. Once in a reasonable state maintenance costs will drop to a tick over amount, however an owner should be prepared to drop a grand on it at anytime!

From an owners point of view, optimistic! I would like prices to head reliably that way, I'm sure they will. There have been a number of half way decent machines sell for well under £5k on here recently!

Doncaster hey! Where about? I'm just up the road, near side of Scun thorpe. If you want an up close look at one you'd be welcome. I'm also reasonably clued up with these cars now having been on the Zed scene since 2007. The fact the car is a 1989 model should not be of concern. I'm saying this a lot recently, but condition is key, age and mileage much irrelevant with these cars now. At 25 years old, a 1989 car will have had its 'problem' if it were going to!! Buy the best you find. As for spec across the range, a lot of that can be retro fitted should it be wanted, even autos can be converted to manual for a reasonable price. Bear in mind being old cars, you'll struggle to find a minter, if you want one, buy a good one and then make it a minter. There are a few on the forum, but the owners aren't likely to part easily with them due to the effort and brass they've invested! Good luck!