lonezedder

Honestly, IMO, no its not worth it. I've never looked at my bronze glass and thought badly of it, in fact I've never given it any thought at all and I bet most of us here are the same. I would imagine, like many Zeds out there, the time, money and effort could be spent on more important areas of the car. Of course, if I was choosing I'd go for the blue tint, but I won't be swapping mine out any time soon. The rest of the car would have to be 110% before even considering investing in blue glass.

Remember some people who have genuine factory manual car replace the stock clutch pipework for a direct master to slave line and then remove all traces of the original - I did, so don't have this bracket under the bonnet anymore. Fair point with the balance bar, although its not impossible for that to have been swapped to, however unlikely.

I'm pretty sure that a car of this calibre and price tag came with standard central locking, hell even my folks old 1988 Astra had it, but to be fair it was an LXi!! Further more, my 1989 SWB TT has central locking, which when I had the Cat 1 fitted upgraded it to remote central locking with the additional servo fitted to the drivers door. - - - Updated - - - Dam and blast too slow.

https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=598

Well I've learned something new today, I didn't realise about the cross over situation. :)

Hot idle smoke at tick over is often a symptom of turbo seal failure, when you raise the revs the increase in back pressure created can then stop the oil passing into the exhaust. The fact you fitted a used turbo leaves a question mark there. As I understand it, the valve stem oil seals very rarely fail on these cars and normally the smoke is more obvious at cold start up especially if the car has been standing for a few days. Then when the engine warms up the smoke clears, the opposite to yours. For what they cost it might be worth changing the PCVs once more. Then obviously allow time for any residue oil to burn off. I heard a rumour that there are different specifications of PCV's for these cars, differences between US / JSPEC etc., don't know if its true, but l remember someone saying it could make a difference. I'm no expert though.

I used a hair dryer. Heat up the tint and try to get a start by using your fingers to lift an edge. Then keep applying heat to the immediate section that you're peeling up and try to pull away slowly. If you're patient it will come away in big pieces. I didn't need to scrape anything and the rear screen element survived. To remove any glue residue left behind, I tried lots of things, but ultimately petrol on the back of plenty of blue roll was the best for me. Don't worry the smell didn't last and no damage was done. The side windows were much easier than the rear screen, I suspect the direct sun light the rear screen is subject to is the cause. This job isn't easy, will take a few hours and requires plenty of patience. Enjoy. :)

Also have a read...very informative information from Opieoils. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?147704-Coolant-amp-Antifreeze-Explained&highlight=red+coolant

Room for controversy here, not all will agree, but these cars should not use the long life OAT based coolants as they do not always agree with the mix of metals some older cars use. These are (normally) red or orange in colour. In our cars the matrix supply pipes that pass through the bulk head are copper, a yellow metal not good for OAT based stuff. Also I have read that OAT based coolants can attack certain types of rubber seals and silicon hoses, which many people are now using as they change out old hoses. In short use the regular tried, tested and proven standard IAT based stuff, its good for about 2 years and (normally) blue or green in colour. Any decent brand should be ok, mix at 50/50% and throw in a bottle of Water Wetter for good measure - this is compatible. I have just used.... http://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/300 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RED-LINE-Water-Wetter-Special-SUPER-Coolant-355ml-Bottle-/181098558961?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a2a50b5f1 I would also add that personally, I would use a concentrate rather than a pre mix because to get a 50/50 mix is much harder unless you fully drain the block as well as the radiator system.

^^^This is also very true. ZedWorld also used longlife coolant/antifreeze which wasn't around back then so go figure...

I run fully synth oil 10w50 (Fuchs Titan Race Pro S) without issue apart from a small oil leak from the main rear seal. Many on here run a fully synth oil again without issue. By all means try swapping out to semi-synth oil, but point is I don't think this is a common issue related to oil type.

I thought you were running with standard calipers and adaptor brackets to make them fit the bigger discs? Either way, I would measure all aspects of the discs and give Dan at DB-Power a call. He might be able to help you. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/345mm-Wilwood-big-brake-kit-Nissan-300ZX-Z32-300-ZX-/200954910736 The links has contact details on it.

If the old ones are 330mm then they aren't 350z discs. The 324mm discs are the largest fitted to them, the import edition brakes are a lot smaller and don't use Brembo calipers either.

The Brembo fit brake discs on the 350z are 324mm diameter. You say yours are 330mm? Otherwise for the 324mm discs to fit the Brembo equipped 350z try here.... http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/nissan/350z-coupe-03-10/350z-coupe-3-5-v6-10-03-01-10.html And you can pay a bit extra and get them coated.

Many thanks...

Hi Guys. Looking to change out my front bypass hoses as I suspect a small leak might be from there. Just wondering if its a fairly straight forward job to do? Pull the rad and fan to get proper access and take it from there? Any help gratefully received! Thanks. :)

:lol: I think not!

That's a really odd one! For what they cost I'd probably just swap out the temperature sender, for example:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-100NX-200SX-300ZX-Bluebird-Cherry-Micra-Sunny-Temperature-Transmitter-52540-/140912892178?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20cf101912 Its probably not that though, but I'd try it first. Failing that check the wiring to the sender and there's a possibility the gauge cluster has an issue with a component or dry joint. Start simple first. :)

It is difficult to say because being lowered the camber should theoretically pull the tops of the wheel in some more. The tyre size will also have an effect, don't go too wide. KJZ32's pictures show his ET35's to be flush with his arches, but I'm sure I've seen others with the same offset not be quite so... My gut feeling is you shouldn't have any issues, stick with a 265/35 tyre and the ET35 wheel. Maybe wait for some more feedback from others with different wheel types, they'll be along shortly....

I would air on the side of caution and stick with the 35's, if you find you want a little extra afterwards you could always use something like these.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201121020833?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT At ET35, you shouldn't need to roll the arch, but problem is although the offset thing is supposed to be an industry standard, I bet there are some slight differences between wheel manufacturers.

Personally I would say for the fronts with an 8.5J wheel, a sensible good looking offset is ET25 bringing the wheels nicely out from the stock location. For a proper flush fit though, you'll need ET18 - ET20, but bare in mind the extra curbing risk and stone chip damage that might occur. For the rear with a 9.5J wheel, a sensible good looking offset would be ET35 again massively out from the stock wheel face location. ET30's won't cause any problems either, but I personally wouldn't go any less although some have you'll probably need to roll the arch lip.

I can only tell you of my misfire experience, which like yours wasn't obviously on any one cylinder, cut a long story short my driver side 02 sensor was 'dead' or 'stuck' and it caused a misfire type symptom which was most noticeable at part throttle, low revs. On the suggestion of another forum member, I disconnected both of them and immediately the car ran fine just slightly rich. I ran the car like this for a few months without issue. DataScan confirmed the dead sensor, the on screen dial on the RH bank wasn't sweeping properly. I have recently replaced both of them with genuine parts and now it runs even sweeter! Disconnecting them is really easy and so worth a try. Its also worth noting, the dead/stuck sensor didn't throw a fault code.

This car was for sale quite some time ago, same seller. I would suspect not as good as it looks, if the seller was confident it would have a full MOT and if it were a gem then surely they'd hold out for a strong price like the current red UK spec at £6750. If it were a really good one, it would have sold much sooner.

^^^Yep, but that was then! You are now only half the size of the latest Ford Fiesta!:D

I'm sorry to hear of your wasted time. My gut feeling was that it was a lemon, but the trouble is you have to view it otherwise you convince yourself you've missed out on a gem! When I was viewing, one car, after a 1hr long chat with the seller about his car and asking lots of very specific questions I drove 4hrs down south to view it. I pulled along side it, hopped out and walked round it once, 15 seconds later got back in my car and drove home! I didn't even knock on his door, but phoned him politely thanking him for wasting my time and fuel. In fact not one of the many sellers I visited including the one of my current Zed were 100% honest, far from it! My current Zed was hiding quite a few issues I have no doubt the seller was aware of. Hey ho...