lonezedder

Rear HICAS ball joint :) Not so nice to change by all accounts.

No, don't just unplug it because the sounder operates for other things as well, like lights on. I have a saved PDF document that explains how to disable it. The original on line link is dead, I don't know if I can upload a PDF, but if you want a copy PM your email address and I'll send one, its not hard though.

Looking at your photos, the black faced original still looks to read in KMH? Is that right its hard to tell? If so then obviously it won't have had a convertor, the driver simply had to remember the clocks operate in KMH. The white faced 'Zedworld' clocks are probably not a genuine UK cluster, but in fact a JDM cluster with aftermarket white dial faces only which happen to read in MPH, but the cluster being a JDM still needs the convertor that the picture shows to make it read right if you understand. That's my thoughts anyway. Genuine UK clocks are black faced.

+1 I wouldn't get hung up on using an older box, the fact that many/most people are running around using the earlier box without issue after 20 years suggests they are up to the job. And a light rebuild/refurbishment really isn't too expensive if required giving you an essentially new box. Otherwise.... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=813

How are you getting on with this?

Very nice! :thumbup1: The 350z never did anything for me. I do really like the 370z though and that's strange because its not hugely different to the 350.

That isn't bad. You say full system? Or was it just cat-back?

Can you remember what they quoted?

Also interesting Pete. I have also looked into those cheap systems from the US, shipping costs are more than the exhaust! I have also trawled through lots and lots of feedback from sellers of these systems and its seems they don't fit very well. I would happily order a Labree system or the like, but after reading comments on youtube its seems they drone a lot regardless of extra resonators. I don't want drone, I'd rather have a quiet system with no drone so was thinking of taking it somewhere like there and asking for a quiet system, its bound to still have a sporty note and make far more noise than the muted stock system.

Has anyone had any recent dealings with exhaustsuk.com // Cobra exhausts in Sheffield. Looking to get a custom exhaust for my SWB at some point soon, its quite close by and wondered if they were any good? Thanks...

Does anyone know if there is any difference in PCVs between the JDM / UK / US spec cars? Looking to make an order from the US and would like to order the full PCV+hose kit, but I seem to remember that someone said there was a difference in PCVs. Thanks.

:thumbup1:

Thanks Guys, got another CZP order to place soon, so will tag some new ones on to that.

Just done this job recently, the pipes use a liquid gasket. IIRC the Z31 uses a 'proper' gasket and it fits the Z32, maybe that's where it came from?

Er, if you're talking about what I think you are, I always thought that was normal? :blushing:

When I'm driving along I get a small amount of water weep from both the front screen water nozzles, they are both brand new OEM items so what do I need to stop this happening? Its spoiling my highly polished paintwork! :lol: I don't have the same problem at the rear strangely. Are there some check valves I need to replace somewhere?

When you say engine fan, do you mean the big viscous fan just in front of the engine or an electric fan? I think my viscous fan often spins up when I first start my car and then quickly disengages until operating temperatures require otherwise. The electric fan should not spin up, unless you have your climate control set to auto maybe? In which case it will bring the air con fan on straight away when you start up. If this is the case try turning you climate control to off or economy before you turn the engine on next time and see what happens. If your electric fan still spins up then no this isn't normal. I can't recall my electric fan coming on at all, the viscous is well up to the job of cooling. A faulty coolant sensor will cause the electric fan to spin up, but normally with a code 13 thrown up. This wouldn't stop the engine starting though or cause it to cut out.

Now that you've dried out all the electrics have you repeated an ECU fault code check, more over have you done this when the car cuts out and refuses to start again? What code does it give?

Looking very nice! What make/model are the wheels?

Black or gunmetal is a good choice IMO.

Just to update this, I collected it this afternoon. Its exactly as advertised, a new undamaged OEM 89 spec bumper. What a bargain! And credit where credit is due, the seller honoured the sale with no fuss.

I'm not going to deny that the black one above ^ looks absolutely stunning, but having that aggressive stance and ride height comes at a price. On a bumpy back road that car isn't going to go very fast at all, I'd beat it in my city run around! Either that or the Zed would need some significant bodywork repairs afterwards. I like them to look nice, but they've still got to be useable! Then there's round towns where you get caught out by speed bumps and you have to crawl over them sideways at 1mph and still remove all the paint from your bump whilst the granny in her Honda Jazz laughs at you! Not worth it IMO.

Yes, its great you've sorted the water leak, long term not good for corrosion never mind the electrics, but honestly this really seems like the PTU syndrome. Try not to let it all beat you, my Zed has put me through the mill, and still has a whole load of problems to sort out, but to be fair on the car most of them are caused by abuse, lack of TLC and proper maintenance from previous ownerships. Keep us posted on this though, always really helpful to hear the conclusion of these various faults.

You need to borrow a good series 1 PTU. Start the car allow to run and fail, then immediately swap the PTU and see if it restarts. That's exactly how I confirmed my PTU failure. I think I still have a good series 1 you are welcome to borrow if you need to...

To me, it really does seem like the dying PTU syndrome. Car starts and runs from cold, 10 minutes later cuts and dies, allow engine to cool, starts up again and repeat... Although I read about you water leak issues, I think that's just a coincidence and you found that out of luck tracing this fault.