lonezedder

Its leaking from the circled point. Any more ideas anyone?

How much was the new one from Z centre please? All in with the VAT+delivery.

I think my BMC is leaking from a small point that sits between the 2 pipe connections on the side of the unit facing the engine. Has anyone else experienced this and is it just a case of time for a full new BMC or would a seal kit solve this? Just seems a funny place for a leak, its definitely not the pipe connections though. Thanks for any advice. :)

I don't think many people on here have bought a 300zx because its a cheap fast car that's all they can afford. Most on here run them as hobby cars and run a far more expensive run-about be it a nearly new Ford Focus or a nice high end Merc. They own them because the 300zx 'does it' for them. Its a car they love and have been interested in for many years. I myself own a much newer car (it was bought brand new) to deal with the daily business, I own my 300zx because I have loved them since the day they were released. I had a little book of sports cars back in the early 90's and under 'N' was one of these beauts! I was probably about 12ish and thought they were the best looking car about. Even compared to other exotica in that same book. I still do! Sure, I can afford a nice late generation Astra VXR or Focus ST. Maybe look at some thing nice from the BMW or Audi range, but I choose my pride and joy to be a 25 year old Nissan sports car. It is testing my patience though it has to be said!

^^^ Obviously the more radiators, the more water to expand in the system. Different boilers have different sized expansion vessels though. Personally though, based on your cold pressure of 1bar rising to 2.5bar when hot, I would say your EV is ready for some air. 16 radiators is plenty, but not uncommon these days. And of course the higher your run the boiler stat, the more expansion you get as well. The main job of an EV is to take up this expansion of water and keep the pressure in the system stable. If there is no EV then the water can't expand and so the pressure rises instead, a flat EV is essentially no EV, so the PRV will operate at 3bar as a precaution to stop seals failing.

I think your expansion vessel is ready for some air as well. When cold 1 bar of pressure is good, then when all rads hot, pressure with a very healthy EV shouldn't get anywhere near 2 bar unless you have lots of radiators. As a healthy example I recharged one yesterday on an Isar HE30. Pumped vessel up to 1bar with system open (i.e. blow off valve open), then re-seated, refilled system to 1.5bar, got all rads red hot (10 of them) and system pressure only read 1 3/4bar. That's how it should be really.

You really need to give British Gas a call and either take a boiler and controls contract or just pay for a one off repair. All this guessing is getting you no where. "When I turn the hot water on, the boiler pressure goes up and up and eventually the boiler goes off. Same errors as before. Any ideas?" Very strange, generally system pressure and hot water function aren't really related on a combi boiler. The system pressure is the water in the primary side and radiator circuit. It could be that when you run the hot water, the heat generated in the plate heat exchanger opens up a small leak inside this plate to plate and so main water pressure 'leaks' into the primary side of the plate and over pressurises the system. If that makes sense and trust me I know what I'm talking about! Stop playing and call BG!

Its definitely a combi boiler right? Assuming so, it could be a number of things. In what manner do you mean the hot water went off? You simply have no hot water full stop, or it runs hot then cold? If you turn the heating completely off and turn a tap on does any thing at all happen or does the boiler appear lifeless? Possibilities include:- Hot water flow sensor. Hot water temperature thermistor. Heavily scaled plate heat exchanger - this would cause hot/cold/hot/cold behaviour. Diverter valve body or motorised head (doubt its an old type diaphragm based valve). It is unlikely to be the main PCB.

He says he's fitting the full 350z brake setup. The rear calipers do require proper modification or bracket work to fit.

I have recently made a couple of orders from a well known US supplier and I can tell you it works out A LOT cheaper. Obviously it works better to make a bulk order for the shipping to be viable, but even that is reasonable. On both occasions they also marked down the value of my order without being asked to make the import duties cheaper. I know about the insurance implications of that. My last import bill including the handling charges was just £24. The order value was significant.

Nearly always the case! Sadly. And often parts are always in stock, so arrive quicker.

It has been said many times that one of the problems with this type of media is the lack of a voice with a tone and manor. Words on a screen can easily be taken the wrong way. I suppose if I were being super, super critical Lexx's final sentence could have been written better, but I'm 100% sure just like me his intentions were purely to be helpful and no bad feeling was intended at all. I don't know the guy, but being around and about this forum for years now I've read enough of his posts (some were helpful replies to my queries) and his intentions are purely to be helpful.

Very impressive. :) I must admit I'm a big fan of the stock look and was very dubious about what you were doing to your fine example of SWBZ, but after seeing the progress and quality of workmanship I really like it. You'll have many jealous folk on here soon! Great choice of colour to, my current Z is gunmetal grey, it seems to suit the car really well somehow.

:lol: Sounds just like my case. I had one previously and genuinely believe it was a truly excellent example, one of the best and better than ANY I have seen since! So like you I know they are there to be had. Its just finding one! I'll stick with my riddled with issues, but rot free Z and slowly sort it all out to make it a excellent example. Dog with a bone! :)

^^^I understand your point, still very frustrating though. I was very clear with the sellers about what I was and wasn't looking for to try not waste their time as much as mine! My main criteria was rust or lack of it, but still viewed many with significant rot, one guy even try to tell me that the remains of his wheel arch in my hands was just muck. :lol: In one instance, after a long honest chat with one seller, I drove ~4hrs down to Kent, pulled along side the car in question and drove straight home without even knocking on the door. Lying *******! A massive waste of my time. :( My advice now to people looking would be to keep the phone chat to a minimum, cos it makes no difference to the truth bending. The only way you'll know is by viewing. Even good photos manage to hide a multitude of sins.

^^^Interesting that, I was just having a really good look at the photos on that advert using the super zoom and was thinking parts of the paint looked iffy and I was thinking its probably not a good as it should be... Useful for anyone else interested to know. I looked at quite a few up and down the country after long discussions with the sellers only to be disappointed by what can only be called lies. The one I've bought was the best of the bunch and its far from perfect, but it ain't rusty! Oddly though its one of the oldest been a 89.

Hi. If I'm honest I don't think there are any truly mint ones available at the moment. Have you seen the Slicktop on the bay, this one looks pretty good... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Fairlady-300ZX-TT-SLICK-TOP-SWB-1994-Series2-Recent-Service-/301474147918?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4631426e4e

Go figure! My TT is an '89' G plate. The rear discs are 297mm. How strange your original ones should have been smaller. Ah well. :)

??? The stock rear discs are 297mm, are you sure the GTO discs are 297mm? Sure a bigger caliper makes a difference, but most of the advantage of a BBK comes from the bigger disc and extra leverage.

Stick with the stock rears, the R33 rears from any variant are no real upgrade.

I did wonder if you'd hit a problem like that. I suppose it will be different with other types of kit. My K-sport kit caused no such problem. Doesn't sound like you have a choice, I am struggling to visualise the problem though. Is it possible to drill a hole in the shield or something similar so you can get this bolt in?

If it were me, I would try to keep them by bending back the shield as necessary to clear new bigger disc. They can then be bent back into shape if you return it to stock at a later time. They will also offer 90% of the protection they previously did, as apposed to 0%! Some people do remove them though, they are only held on my a couple of spot welds. I kept mine when I fitted my BBK on my previous Z, 330mm discs, the shields were only bent back a bit to clear them-easy.

No difference, I just find it better to have the book in front of you. Its much easier to flick back n forth as needed within the book. Trust me, its just better! :)

Love or hate it, you've got give credit for the time, effort and brass invested in it. :)

Feel free to PM me with any information.:wink: