lonezedder

Thanks Chaps. Will this play in the rear wheel cause vibration at speed?

The outer bush is fine, in fact both outer bushes were replaced less than 10k miles ago.

I'm jealous! Congrats on the purchase of a fine looking Slicky! :)

I have some play on the NSR wheel, wobble when you hold the wheel at 3 and 9 o clock position and shake it. There is no wobble vertically. The play isn't from the outer ball joints, but from either the inner arm joint or the rack itself. Can the rack itself have play or will it just be the inner arm joint and will this play/wobble on the wheel cause a vibration at speed? Thanks Guys...

I've just replaced my BMC with a brand new one, sourced through MJP on here. It was £200, a Tokico BM57 cylinder for a twin turbo manual. For what its worth, my opinion, I wouldn't bother with a 2nd hand unit as they'll all be getting on and I've heard mixed things about rebuild kits, sometimes successful, sometimes not. A nice easy job to change though, you don't need to bench bleed the unit before and you don't need to bleed the calipers, only the ABS unit in the boot.

^^^ Can we have some more information on your Volvo washer jet modification! Which Volvo model are they from and do they fit perfectly?

I'm curious, how does a heat gun help remove the scratches?

I'd also add that based on your location, I'd certainly be having a look at this UK spec car. Granted you might be wasting your time, it might be a dog, but you just never know it could be a gem!

"Besides, there are better cars out there for the money you guys think I should be spending on one. If I had 5-6k, I'd simply get an evo instead. It's not that far off r33 gtr money either." Please remember this is a dedicated 300zx Z32 forum and as such the majority of its members (including myself) own a 300zx because they choose to out of a long term admiration of them. I clapped eyes on back in the early 90's and dreamed of one, I still think they are amazingly beautiful to look at and still a powerhouse techno force to be reckoned with! They do not own one because they couldn't quite afford a R33 GTR or an EVO!! Far from it, many of our daily drives cost more than those cars. Better is also very subjective matter. Tread carefully!

Exactly!

I don't want to seem pessimistic, but lets not get carried away. Until someone views it properly the advert means naff all! Sure, it reads quite well, but the photos are pretty poor, some clearly taken at different times - see engine bay shots and I'm sure its had a blow over - see wing mirrors. I do hope to be proved wrong though, but my experience when viewing these cars taught me this. Fingers crossed its a good one!

The rear targa drain hoses run from the roof right down to an exit in the sill, if you use a torch and mirror and look hard you will see the end of the hose just peeking through the sill exit (well mine do anyway). You can slowly pour water down the rear targa drain holes and check the water cleanly exits. You can also see sections of this drain hose on its travels by looking behind the appropriate interior trim. So, my point is that the sills don't just fill with water, well their not supposed to anyway. My current Zed, an '89' plate is currently not showing any sill problems. They are nice and solid. My previous Zed, a '93' plate also had no rear sill issues during my time with the car, so it is possible to find rot free car. Sure there will no doubt be some hidden surface rust beginnings somewhere, but that's what Waxoyl or similar is for, it is supposed to kill existing surface rust and protect from further corrosion. The best way to protect these cars (sadly) is to limit their use to fair weather only, mine very rarely sees a wet road, certainly not a wet and salty one! That way the targa's don't have any water to drain! I am also lucky enough to keep mine in a good damp free garage. Makes a massive difference.

My condolences. :(

Nice one! Glad you've got to the cause of the issue and thanks for completing the thread as it may help others in the future with a similar issue.

Fair enough, just thought it might be worth an ask...

No, they both are definitely 324mm. Surely the caliper can soak up this 5mm discrepancy to save quite some cash?

Question for users of R33 GTR front Brembos. Is it not possible to use the 350z front disc with the R33 GTR calipers because they are also a 324mm diameter / 30mm thickness disc. The only difference being the height or offset which is 54mm vs 49mm. The 350z discs are available a lot cheaper and surely the pads and pistons in the caliper can compensate for this 5mm difference? Anyone tried this with success or failure?

I have been incredibly lucky this morning has I have managed to remove both my duff o2 sensors with very little fuss. Obviously I soaked them in plus gas fluid over night, then a simply smashed off the tops of the old sensors and used a 22mm socket to remove! Very lucky! I currently have my BMC out so that made room on the OS and took the battery out on the NS. My car also has no A/C so the pipework on the NS wasn't there to complicate things. My question is do I need to or should I put anything on the new sensor threads and how tight should I wind them in? Also the sensors I bought are from CPZ.... https://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=4241 They are genuine Bosch sensors and are a direct fit, but the wiring colours are different having 2 white and 1 black as opposed to white/black/red. Any thoughts on this or should I just plug them in! Thanks...

Thank you chaps. :)

I'm soon to replace the BMC as the old one was leaking. The actual nuts and bolts part of the job is obviously a doddle, but I'm wondering if there is a way to avoid having to bleed the entire braking system when doing this because I'm fed up with taking the wheels on and off all the time! Anyone got any tips or procedures I can follow to make this easier? Thanks in advance! :)

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?151390-Series-4-manual-air-con-to-digital-conversion-(pic-heavy) This is not an easy task.

Good luck on your quest then mate! You must be very handy with the spanners to be considering any of this:) Trouble is realistically there is no reason why an NA will be any less rusty then a TT even at budget prices.

No, it was just for the labour. He hadn't done one before either, but reckoned he could suss it out. Did say it would make more sense to just buy a TT though.

That's fair enough as long as you appreciate that it is harder by some degree to change an NA to TT than TT auto to manual and/or swap out rear end. The TT has different wiring, fuel pump controller, different ECU, boost control, etc and that's before you get to the front end where all the intercooler pipework etc goes. The TT chassis has provision for all those things where as you'll have to make them fit on an NA chassis. I once got a rough quote from a well known 300zx specialist to convert and it was £1500 labour + parts/engine etc.

Thanks, but I'll change it out for a brand new item with it being the braking system. Cheers anyway.