lonezedder

For sale are a pair of adjustable front upper camber arms. These were only fitted in January this year by the previous owner of my car, they have definitely done well under 3000 miles, probably less than 2000 miles. There is nothing wrong with them at all, but I'm much an OEM man and have just replaced them with brand new OEM arms. Condition wise, there is only the odd spot of corrosion on the arms, otherwise they are much as sub 3000mile arms should be. No wear or play. Boxed and ready to post... £47 including delivery.

DataScan, full version here. S C U N thorpe if anyone local needs my help. Dam swear filter! :lol:

Your probably looking to go for an 'upgraded' larger all alloy radiator, but bear in mind the top radiator brackets might not fit and the shroud can be tricky to fit. If however you want to go for a stock replacement... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?178086-Stock-radiator-replacement

Today I've changed the gearbox oil. :yawn: Not as easy as the diff due to location, but not difficult. Done on the drive way mind, a garage lift would make real easy.

The filling point is on the RHS of the diff, drain point on the LHS. No special tools needed, the 1/2" square end of a socket set fits them perfectly. Torque figure of the both plugs is 43 ft/ib I used a cheap one way valve hand pump jobbie to fill the diff, a good tip is to warm the oil up first, makes it easier to pump in. Only takes about 2 litres of oil. This is what I used... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emergency-pump-Transfer-pump-hand-pump-gasoline-diesel-oil-/251431736275?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a8a7fd3d3 Got from a Wilco Motosave store.

Nice one! Always good to have a history of problem solutions for people to search and learn from in the future. It would be good if everyone finished their problem threads with their solution. I've certainly learnt plenty on here. Cheers.:)

Today I've changed the diff oil. Thankfully, this is certainly one of the easiest jobs to do on a Z!:thumbup1:

I'd just add that although removing the glass is obviously the proper way when repainting, a very high quality job can be achieved leaving them in. My 1st Z had a full repaint and the glass was left in, the end result was excellent, there was no overspray. Everyone who had seen the car afterwards commented on the high quality of the job. I'm sure there are a good few repainted cars on here as well where the glass was left in and a great job was achieved. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure there are some with very poor jobs to.

Have you tried taking the vacuum hose off the fuel regulator? Is it possible that the regulator has failed inside and fuel is being pushed through into the vacuum hoses when trying to prime causing the hissing? This might be complete b****cks BTW:eek:, but just a thought!

Nice one! Good when you find something proper conclusive like that.:)

Cheers Guys & special thanks to Cyberbean (great name BTW!). Did as you suggested and now I have a working lead that talks to the car with all the freebies including NDS. It was the USB CP2101 driver that got it working, the FTDI driver was supplied and already installed. I will probably purchase the full activation of NDS to get the full functions, unless anyone can suggest a better alternative??? Note this is the 2nd link adaptor and cable from China that is now working, the other one still doesn't so I can't recommend it. :thumbup:

Anyone got a Ebay USB jobbie that works?

I'd pay close to that IF it is the fine example it should be. Pictures hide all sorts of flaws as I found out recently travelling all over the place looking for a rot free Z. And people selling them often lie through their teeth, this was a big problem when I was viewing.

Careful with the USB jobbies, I've bought two recently, neither work with my car.

Agreed! Problem is, too many people spending money in all the wrong places on these cars. Lets fit a chrome this, rear strut brace that, flare the arches etc. Never mind replacing the knackered cambelt, worn trim, failing harness etc. My current Z was/is a prime example of that. Previous owners spent a fortune on lovely wheels, coil-overs, racing seats, speakers etc. etc. I bought it, admittedly not such a good choice, found the matrix leaking, system full of K-seal, knackered alternator, bodged PTU fitment bolt rubbing on cam pulley! And good god! - you should have seen the air filters. Unbelievable, but hey what lovely wheels! Never mind, its now a project I'm sticking with and slowly I'm turning it back into a proper good un Funkysi would be proud of. That's the plan! All that said, each to their own, people can spend their money as they choose. Eventually the bad examples will be broken for spares, the good ones that resemble something close to original will rocket in value. Eventually!

I have to say there is some truth in this.

What are you unsure of? When filling it did you remove the bleed on the other side of the radiator to help the system vent air? Best done with car slightly inclined. So you flushed your system with fresh water, when you refilled did you account for the fact that the engine would essentially just contain water and no coolant? What I mean is, if you thoroughly flushed, then you really would need to add a full 4.5 litres of coolant to the rad to dilute the water left in the engine to approx. 50/50, then fill the expansion tank with a premixed 50/50 if I'm making any sense? The total capacity of the system including the expansion tank is approx. 10 litres. You should also only use the regular coolant normally blue or green and not the long life OAT based stuff normally orange or red. Once you refilled the system, replace the bleed and rad cap, run the car until up to temp with heater on full heat, race the engine 2-3 times and then switch off, allow to cool, then top up. You will need to add some more, top up with 50/50 premix. Check the level over the next few days, you will probably need another slight top up this is normal. Another point to mention is the water level will settle below the filler neck, it will not hold anymore, it will just dump it. As long as you can see water in the radiator then its ok.

I think Baz already has one.

Beautiful, beautiful car Baz! Get that red Z badge fitted to the nose.

Really liking the 'Lude' Dan, very rare car now! Was at a classic car show couple of months ago, there was one of these - a black 2.2Vtec with a Japanese owner sitting along side. He owned it for 15 years, absolutely loved it and once I asked him a couple of questions about it he was in his element, real pleased I showed some interest!

Nope! Rather have the Z and keep the (lots of) £ change.

Hi Chaps. For anyone that might be interested or for future Forum searches. I've just replaced my radiator as top connection has broken, really didn't want an upgraded item as I want to keep everything stock fitment and didn't want any issues with the radiator brackets not fitting or shroud issues and the like. Anyway, a genuine item is very expensive now from the UK, even CPZ in the US are charging $440! So I took a chance with this 'Nissens' pattern part from Ebay. It is advertised as a manual car radiator, but its actually either, obviously you just leave the auto cooler section capped if used on a manual car like mine. Quality and fitment are 99.9% perfect, I have had no issues fitting anything, all the screw points are in the right place, as far as I can see it is 99% identical copy. It also has the bleed screw, which I know from experience not all pattern part radiators do making bleeding the system a PITA! Cost £110 delivered. Nissens part no.68719 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/320995273051?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 Hope this helps someone.:)

No, none at all for that brief time. Don't worry about it, at least it proved the fan is good!

Yes IIRC the fronts are 310mm, they might be 300mm?, but certainly bigger than the Z32's 280mm. Must be from a GTST though, the GTS are no bigger than the Z.

Whilst I agree that 99 spec lights do freshen the car up well and make it a little more modern, there is nothing wrong with the orange retro rear lights or side repeaters for that matter. Fact is these cars are old now, 99 spec lights won't change that. Even a 99 spec car is an old one. I for one am proud of my 25 year old classic! The fact it still turns heads, feels pretty modern to drive and still goes like stink is a true testimony to Nissans original design. If you prefer it like it is then keep your money in your pocket, the 99 spec rears are not exactly cheap! And after all that, I feel silly now, because I intend to change mine to 99 spec in the near future, but my car is gunmetal grey.