Chris

I don't think people realise that if you open an unpaid item case against a buyer and they don't cough up, they get a strike against their account. Three strikes and you're banned. If people reported every non-paying bidder I think they'd be a lot less of them about! That's why I opened the case against the winner of my auction, I knew he wouldn't pay but wanted him to get a strike. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

People really don't read ebay car adverts, they just bid anyway. When I sold me old zed I truthfully listed all the problems (some pretty major) with pictures on the advert and it "sold" for about 3 times what I thought it was worth. Within a few hours of the end of the auction "oh sorry mate didn't realise it didn't have an MOT". He clearly didn't even GLANCE at the advert, there's absolutely no way you could have missed it and the massive list of problems. When I opened a case against him he said "you're mad if you think I'm going to pay for a car like that" well why the hell did you bid then?!? And the story was the same for the next 4 or 5 bidders, spoke to all of them and none of them had any idea what they had bid for, they were horrified when I told them exactly what I had written in the advert. People just dream away without a care in the world. I wrote that the car was rusting to bits (including around the seat belt mounts) and had one guy phone me up and ask questions like "what condition is the steering wheel in". Crazy. So in conclusion, I wouldn't read too much into ebay prices.

I've read complaints about lower quality like thinner carpets, no boost gauge (though I have a feeling they may have made a return in 99?), no cruise, manual AC as has been mentioned. But if lots if people are disagreeing then maybe I've read the general feeling wrong, I'm not saying any of this out of my own personal experience, just thought I was reporting generally held views so happy to be told I'm wrong! Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I've never heard most of that. The general consensus seems to be the later cars are worse from what I've heard, I seem to remember (maybe I've got this wrong, sorry if I have!) that Jeff himself said he thought S3/S4 were best overall. Maybe the 99s are different though Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Why a 99? I like the bumper and skirts as much as the next man but other than that they are a worse spec AFAIK and command very high prices. Not worth it IMO, just put the bits on an earlier stock car for far less money. You should probably try a stock car first though as you might not like it!

You can't buy new anymore so you'll have to play the waiting game if you want original rails Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

As others have said they are noticeably lower. I've got a lwb and I don't think the seats are fouling my arm rest opening, doesn't ring a bell anyway! But then I couldn't tell you the exact model of seats I've got, look the same to my eye though! But yes getting to the adjustment knob is a pain, have to remember to make sure it's alright before I set off! Also where my drivers side bolster is a bit worn it sticks out and touches the door, passengers side doesn't do it. I'm hoping Mondo you'll be able to work some magic when you do my interior on the GB! Magic or buying new foam is fine, I'm not fussy :-P Oh and I also can't tilt the seat forward fully unless it's pushed back, so they are a bit of a tight fit Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Yea I'd only thought of that afterwards! Internally it's a 300zx to me Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I could never drive a car called a Cedric

As others have said at least you haven't gone completely!

What's the difference to earlier ones then? When did they change? Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

No you won't Jimmer will [emoji13] Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

FYI there's a style of bride rails that fit, fitted them myself. Though I did have to to space the seat up a bit to stop the slider bar hitting the seat

Looks really good, where did you get it from?

This! Mine need doing, though I'm on Mondo's list so hope he has something that matches well!

Some nice new features there

This may be of some use though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTD-STAGE-1-HD-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-FOR-1990-1996-NISSAN-300ZX-BASE-NON-TURBO-3-0L-/192240525429?hash=item2cc26da075:m:mJB2g4y3RoLEfnhYivcT3vA Just under £100 with shipping and import, I don't know how much an OEM kit would cost though. They also have listings that come with lightened flywheels as well if that was something you wanted to think about

Here's the part number I believe 30001-30PS2NW (got it from Z1) which should help you search

Well yes I wondered that too!

I thought about saying something like non-subbed member can only access classified threads that are say at least 3 days old (so subbed members get first dibs), but I'm not sure if that makes it too complicated

I agree, I'm not arguing that we stop only subbed members selling. A good point, but I think that is the wrong way to look at it. This is not at all putting subbed members first, it is just flipping which type of members (in any given scenario) are put first. Sellers are subbed members too and this view point puts the interests of a buying member above a selling member. Is that fair? It sure isn't putting subbed members first, the buyer gains but the sellers loses. As the sellers are obviously selling their own property and until it is sold it still belongs to them, I don't see why their interests should be subservient. In other words, I think it is wrong for buyers to dictate who sellers can sell to. This isn't perfectly explained but I can't think of a better way or writing it right now.

Blocking out too much content unless you sub risks pushing more people to facebook instead. Must say I completely disagree with only subbed members being able to buy, it limits the market a subbed member is advertising to! And I would argue it acted as a catalyst for people to sign up as they could browse the cars and parts available and then think it would be useful to be a member to have a decent access to that side of the club. Not sure how often non-sub members actually buy anything but still. This is asking people to pay their subs so that the club can restrict their market...why not just advertise on facebook?!?

Heating is a good tip, get the hairdryer out!

Gluing?!? Woodscrews for me mate

Well after a 3 day weekends spending about 12 hours a day underneath my zed: New gearbox in, much quieter and shifting well :thumbup: Diff bushes and oil changed :thumbup: Replacement brake master cylinder fitted and all good :thumbup: Front tension rod bushes changed and horrible vibration gone :thumbup: Rear suspension raised up slightly so much more even now :thumbup: Was soooo nice to be able to drive it! To be fair I don't think the diff bushes actually needed doing, but I took the diff out to have a good look and then I thought well I've come this far so might as well do them now anyway. Mistake! Fronts were a doddle, but the rears took almost a day to get out! Sorted now though. Gearbox is actually still a bit rattly in 2nd and 4th (nothing like the old one that was worse in those gears but very noisy in every gear!), but after a quick bit of googling and the realisation that my last zed was the same I think I've realised what it is! I transferred over my gearstick assembly so the rubber boots must be perished, hence both cars made the same noise with different gearboxes. Simon did reference it in an earlier post but to be honest I didn't really know what he meant at the time :whistling: so I've ordered new boots. One last observation that I think might help a few people, when I was removing the old box I realised that with my new divorced downpipes I couldn't get the starter off, not enough clearance to get it over the top stud. I did briefly try to remove the downpipes but that proved too much of a pain, could only fit an open ended spanner on two of the nuts and nothing else, and it just slipped immediately. Not too much of a problem as I could squeeze the box out without taking the starter off, but if I was doing something else that required starter removal and I couldn't do it without pulling the box or downpipes I'd have been pissed! Well when the box was out the car I just removed the stud and replaced it with a bolt, goes in and out easily now :cool3: well worth doing if you're fitting downpipes IMO! Hardly the end of the journey, still lots I want to do but that's the major stuff out the way and I can drive it now!