Chris

Ah, the 6v must have been a ground loop....the fuse had blown, I didn't realise it was fed by the 'eps/hicas' fuse in the footwell, I thought it was under the bonnet. Guess that's for the actuator. Thanks for the replies anyway! Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Gaz, Ah is that a thing? Could be the connector to the reservoir, I changed the master cylinder earlier in the year Andrew, was pin 1 to ground. I tried a few different points near the control unit, got about the same for all. Will try again though Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

My ABS light is on constantly, ran through the diagnostics in the service manual and it seems fine except the power to the control unit. With the ignition on, pin 1 should get battery voltage, but I'm only getting about 6V. I measured the battery voltage as 12.5V. Anyone got any ideas what could cause that?

I've got an aftermarket unit wired up so it folds/unfolds with lock and unlock when the switch is left in the middle. Having the switch up or down overrides it. IMO better than how that works! Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Personally I'd be happy to pay £850 if I knew the box and clutch booster were good, but otherwise it is a little steep IMO Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Yea I think NA speed sensor is required. I only realised two weeks ago after I fitted an NA box to my TT and wondered why my speedo was wrong for 2 years! I thought my speed correction chip had broken. But swapping the sensor out for a TT one made it a lot better Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Interesting the 95 is suggested, clearly tuned for it then! I'm no expert but I think the 'risk' with lower RON fuel is knocking, which the detonation sensor should in theory control. Whether the ECU can do/does anything else I'd be interested to know

Few bits and pieces I have no need of! Nismo gear knob, good condition - £25 + £3pp Front door speaker adapters, new not used - £15 + £5pp - SOLD Chrome sill covers, have been used, some surface scratches but nothing too bad - £40 + £5pp Front strut brace - £30 + £10pp - SOLD Rear centre light, good condition - £60 + £7pp UK clocks, speedo broken - £10 + £5pp - SOLD Air con fan - £10 + £5pp Recirc valves - £10 + £5pp Condensor, I think it's for an NA? - £20 + £10pp Pedals, I don't even know what they are! - £5 each + £5pp Pictures here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WTT1UC2QRpieIUTm4CseTWpbWkUo9z7o

Don't UK and JDM cars have different maps based on the different fuel available?

Remember you will have to increase the size of the holes in your hub though, from memory I think it's 14mm but don't quote me on that Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

I didn't have to change mine when I fitted them Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Check the service manual, available online. Different value are probably TT vs NA I would guess Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Nut on mine was ruined so I didn't want to put it back on. Had a go at replacing the nut and re-flaring the end but the corner right after it made it tricky and it went badly, so I need a new one. Anyone got one from a breaker? Dead easy to remove. Not sure if they change over the years, mines a 95, picture for comparison!

Wow you should get hold of them my orders normally take less than a week Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Usual suspects would be Z1 or CZP, though I guess the clutch fork might be available from somewhere like nissangenuine.com Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Just thought it was actually more like 3 weeks not 2 months, forgot I moved it

Hmm I don't need full, just a little bit of feathering Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

If I leave mine sitting for say 2 months then I have to blip the throttle to (presumably) get some fuel in for it to start when cranking. Takes it 3-4 seconds of spluttering then it runs like a dream. Not really a big deal but I kinda thought that's what priming the fuel pump was for :blink: Is this normal?

https://www.google.com/search?q=Foreign+Car+Spares+Ltd&rlz=1C1GCEA_enGB826GB826&oq=Foreign+Car+Spares+Ltd&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#lrd=0x4870bb0e107f0067:0x2aa478055fd4b5d5,1,,, :hammer: keep your wits about you Edit: though to be fair their ebay feedback is good https://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=fcsforeigncarsparesltd&ftab=AllFeedback

On the flip side as it's only just been imported it won't have any rust issues, it's probably spotless underneath. And if the 23k miles is genuine, is that even enough miles for something to go that wrong? Kinda looks like something has been leaking in it to me though, seats look odd. Strong money for an NA as well.

You'll need a new pilot bushing, though I guess it might come with the new clutch. Worth checking. Get a braided clutch line as well if it doesn't come with one, much easier to fit. Quite common to fit a chromoly pivot ball and a 350z clutch fork as it doesn't flex as much, again worth thinking about whilst you're doing it. Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Yea auto and manual props are different lengths. Good point about the reservoir, I haven't got one and my clutch goes heavy when shifting after full throttle Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Baffles me why Nissan decided to make a whole different bell housing/flywheel/clutch combo for, what, 5-10mm diameter difference? Guess the only thing to consider is availability of parts (clutch & flywheel) for NA vs TT though seems to be plenty of NA stuff about. Just remembered though when I tried to put an NA box over my XTD flywheel it didn't fit, I think NA boxes need some material removed to fit over a TT flywheel?

Fair enough but thought you were looking before Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

No brackets required for 350z brembo front discs and calipers