Bilky

Just a thought - Have you tried changing both the air filters and the fuel filter - just in case they are blocked and restrictive.

It doesnt look standard...but then there may be different plugs on different years....

When the battery is on its way out the relays start to click rapidly - its a long shot but all sorts of odd things happen when the battery is on its way out. Easy to get checked though.

Surely someone knows! OK I'll just have to have a look myself - BAH!

Sounds power steering pump related when its cold. Could it be battery related for the clicking?

Go home and put your feet up then!

In Neutral.

Is the car completely covered in white snow?

This regards the connection at the arial mast itself - not at the headunit - My mast has busted so I've just disconnected the power to make it go up and down - I use the internal arial on the rear windscreen which gets me by but its not great. I prefer the rear arial staying down and so I bought a stick on powered arial from Halfords for the inside of the car to improve the reception. I would like to stick this at the back of the car out of the way so it looks neater than bunging it on the fron windscreen but can I plug it onto the end of the main arial cable going from the mast unit to the stereo head unit or is it a fixed item? Cheers for any suggestions.

something must have failed on the suspension or the steering. Get it checked sharpish

All, Have found these seem to be in good favour and are excellent value for money - I can get one fitted for £65. :hyper: Anyone tried them or know anyone who had them? Please dont start talking about any other tyre unless its available for the same price (ish) as thats my budget :nono: and I was surprised to find a lot of good reviews on the internet about them. :) Thanks.

Have you checked your tyre pressures?

Go to the pub

If you see me again flash your lights so I recognise your car! It was a blue one I think wasnt it?

If the speedo hasnt had a convertor put on it then it could also be the speed sensor thats on its way out. Usually the vibration you describe is the prop shaft - but I see you had it rebuilt - if its not the rear tyres out of balance or the shocks, or the HICAS then I'd return to that to check it was done properly. The other cause can be a worn out transmission bush - hold the transmission in the correct place into the prop - these can sag over time and cause the transmission to drive the prop incorrectly.....only costs a few quid for one. I'd probably discount the diff at this point as I dont recall anyone ever having to change their diff on a Z due to a problem.

Twas me! Sorry - followed you for ages didnt I then thought I'd have a bit of fun and give it some....You along there often? Thats my everyday trip home! I though the driver was going fast! Just out of interest - Where we doing about 90? My speed sensor is acting up so I have now idea how fast I ended up as the limiter stops working when the sensor acts up - which is nice!

As long as its not TOO excessive - that sdoesnt seem too bad to be honest - Take the centre plate off the engine - the '300ZX' cover and set about cleaning all the joints, springs and put some oil in the wire cover. Then as suggested above clean the throttle bodies out as they get gunked up with oil and can affect the throttle if very badly built up.

It can be sudden - Mine packed up overnight - I could charge it back up but it was dead - new battery sorted it. The giveaway is the very load and very rapid clicking of a relay. If you get nothing at all then it may not be the battery - You could get it drop tested to see if its worn out.

If its giving you a rapid clicking sound you dont have enough juice in the battery to turn it over - the Zed has a high requirement on this front and will prevent the engine turning over if theres not enough to drive it. Charge it up and see - but it sounds like the battery has had it - buy a new heavy duty battery rated for the Zed only - not just any old car.

DO NOT adjust the revs using the TPS - you'll get it all wrong - get the TPS adjusted then reset the system by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins - the car will then relearn how to drive it - the idle revs shouldnt need adjusting unless someone else has played with it. When you are adjusting it with the ignition on but the engine off - you can check to see how accurate you have got the setting by watching the voltage change as you move the accelerator cable by hand. It will be obvious to see the change in the reading.

No! Leave the N/A in and sell it and buy a TT. Dont bother with a conversion - its really not worth it - The TT has uprated engine components that the N/A would need to handle the power reliably.

Danny thats spot on for the way to set the TPS up. Too many people rely on the around .44v setting but this can be way out of adjustment on some cars.

I have a 10mm spanner one end closed, the other open and its my most useful tool as most things on the car are 10mm. Saved me countless times!

rofl!

When you undo the 3 screws - this holds the outer casing on - then the small screw holds the glass in place. It basically all falls apart with the screws off! Shouldnt be a problem.