Bilky

Yes you will bust the transmission if you treat it like that. Normal wheel spin is fine, but dont hold the car still while accelerating on a regular basis, its not normal useage and you WILL need a new transmission.

I got a few sets from Phil at C&S Wood in Manchester for about £35 per set - just normal unbranded pads - they stopped fine but the wear wasnt as good as the Ferodos so you may have to replace them more often - but they stopped well for the price.

If the light doesnt go out when you have filled the fluid pot up, and the fact your steering has gone heavy *might* suggest a speed sensor problem. Is your speedo behaving itself or is it a bit erratic?

There is no difference between UK and import dash cover as far as I know.Sounds like a lame excuse.

Problem is the EBC green stuff pads which are for smaller hot hatches really - arnt up to the job properly on our cars as they are so much heavier and we tend to go that bit quicker. So the next step to improve braking are the Red Stuff's but they are dangerous when cold so your'e between a rock and a hard place with EBC so its best to steer clear.

I wouldnt.....Not unless you want to bust it anyway. Its not designed for that kind of abuse.

Lucas pads? I bought a set of them from Halfords once and they where THE most dangerous pad I have ever owned - they faded into nothing as soon as you got any decent heat into them!

Yach - Halfords own? Lots of people like Porterfields or Ferodo DS racing pads. Steer clear of EBC pads - especially red stuff theres a common theme on them as you can see above and having had them on mine I agree - dangerous when cold damn good when hot. I've got the Ferodo DS pads and quite like them. Change them ASAP.

Its always worth doing every now and then.

Thats probly your pads mate - what have you got on the front? Either that or you need to bleed the lines.

The O2 side of things is always adjusting its settings, its mostly the timing and fuel maps that get adjusted. If the car senses things arnt right at certain ranges, it compensates the timing at that point, this gets remembered. So a bad tank of fuel will have the ECU reduce its performance slightly to make the engine run as well as it can. Reset it and it will assume everything is factory spec and start to learn again.

The TPS is the Throttle Position Sensor. A search will find lots of posts on it.

More like restores lost power - The ECU compensates for problems like bad fuel etc. Resetting it restore the default settings.

LOL! I think this is where I've just picked a leak up - I'm having Phil at C&S Wood have a look at it so if youre still no furehter along I'll get the details off him as to what he did....

try resetting the EC?U by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins, if that doesnt bring it back down it could be the temp sensor is faulty or the TPS needs adjusting.

If when the laptop starts it doesnt say 'Starting Windows....' Then the boot sector has been wiped, most likely by a virus, you may be able to find a utility that will re-write the boot sector and get you running again....

Same here - 30 mins - just use Jubilee clips instead of the Nissan clips, you only lose a couple of cup fulls of water anyhow! I found it easier to cut the old pipes off rather than struggle to get them off intact.

How did you go on for moving the wiring - or does it all just unclip and move across easily enough?

Bots is probly the only way - will come off dead easy then!

I think it runs when the ignition is on even if the engine is off.

Andy Mate - you must be the hardest person in the world to get hold of!! Been trying for ages by phone and email! Are u lightening your car to make it faster?

If you dont have a proper job done then you will devalue the car as it will seem like its been bashed and fixed on the cheap.....

Been with http://www.f2s.com for a while - pay £22.50 per month for unlimited bandwidth, fixed IP, no connection fee..... Good connection at 512 and is very very reliable

If the PCV's dont cure it then it will be the turbo seals....Alternatively how thin an oil is in the engine - thin oils like 5w or even 0w weights are known to leak more for obvious reasons try a thicker oil like a 10 or a 15 and see if that stops it.

Very easy job - just buy a load of carb cleaner and pull off the intake pipes and clean away. The idle valve is left of the battery - a short rubber pipe that you undo and squirt cleaner in though there to loosen the crap up.