Stephen

That's odd, I have one of there's think it's the same one. It's been inbthere about 5 years and I've given it quite a bit of abuse with no problems. Even inspected last year when the engine was out.

Phew, thought I'd given you a duff. Glad to know it's still going strong.

I take it the one I rebuilt and gave you didn't work then if you've rebuilt two. :oops:

Ah ha! I think I have an idea what's going on. Il update whether it worked tomorrow.

Cheers Gaz I think I've found it anyway on the online service manual. Looks like I've gotta pull the fuse box and inspect the relay on the rear of it.

Front of the shaft has a seal IIRC that can leak. Mine was pouring out of the resivoir line, no longer a Nissan produced item.

Got the BMS swapped over today. The old ones rear is horrid, I gave the Servo a clean but I think it could do with testing. The interior of the Cylinder had what I can only describe as a smeg like substance inside, yuk. Peddle feels much better, even with air obviously still present round the ABS unit (makes a squelch sound when ABS is activated) next stage is getting her off the floor. Then I can hopefully get the rear brakes and studs sorted.

Is there a wiring diagram for the climate control system?

There's loads of information on this one Will and encourage you to do some reading. It's one of those things with equal pros and cons depending on what you want to achieve. The purpose of the heavy stock flywheels car manufacturers fit is to create inertia, this makes things like hill starts easier. That comes at a price though. It takes more energy and time to change the speed of that mass, resulting in a less responsive free rev, useful for down shifting etc. One word of advice though don't skimp on it, if a flywheel let's go at 5k rpm or more... well just picture a cross between a Catherine wheel and a hand grenade. You might keep your left foot if your lucky :lol:

Already done, a couple of winters back when I had the frame out. The trans had new oil when installed a few years but it was cheapish stuff and although it's great once warm cold it's a clunky grindy thing. So I've gone for a better product, similar to Redline MT90. Iirc the one I used was 85-95w as that's all I could find at the time on the shelf locally. The budget ran thin and it was a temporary addition, think it was Castrol, may have been Halfords. The replacement is Fuschs Titan Race synth 75-95w. Hopefully should make things a little more friendly.

Trust me mate, I can virtually guarantee even with two zeds you've got less competition for your time. :lol:

Sadly I don't need anything to keep me busy lol.

So without adue it's time for 2017's winter works, lots of niggles to sort. The list of bits it's long but some of it is time consuming. Listed in no priority; Strip front end down removing unnecessary crap and lines that are no longer in use. Fitting the new Japspeed intercoolers on my shelf and improving air flow. Repairs to passenger side ARB mounting point (don't ask). Replace the old Brake Master Cylinder and fit the new one I've got on the shelf. Rebleed the system and sort out the annoying ABS air lock. New rear pads and disks. ABS kill switch. Sort out the rear wheel geometry. The caster is out and the track width is not right. Transmission fluid change and installation of neutral switch. Paint work repairs, it's a tough life living outside and hurtling down Dorsets A & B roads. We do cow crap, gravel and limestone down here. Stone chips a plenty. Create and fit front splitter and smooth off stone gaurd. Potentially fit side skirts. Alterations to the current oil cooler set up. Installation of AFR gauge. Improvement of battery retention. Sort out Climate control faults. If there's time and budget, exchange to dual intake. Jesus, laid out that sounds awful.

Oh ****ing too right. Pick a front page story and start asking proper questions. Even a dyslexic like me can start finding huge holes and bias. You've only got to look back over the last 12 months to see what a load of guff is touted about.

No room for them really Si. These 15mm ones are really the max that will fit. Even with rolled arches. I know ebaich do 15mm ones, I had a set but the thread protrusion effects the wheel face. Plus these 15mm ones are sat here already.

Really? 8 years ago the western economy suffered a big crash, thankfully it didn't collapse. Various other mid and far eastern countries continued to be be extremely wealth. Chinese wealth is in fact crazy, more millionaires blah blah. The global economy is pretty good. The dollar, euro and Stirling are sadly lagging behind, complex. Food, is in surplus in most of the world. Look how much is wasted by supermarkets, restaurants even households. Oil and gas rather than running out are becoming restricted with treaties to leave x volume in the ground to prevent carbon emissions. Look at the crash in price we've seen recently. There is no police state with an iron hand. In fact a soft and overly liberal state and media rule in the west. The police are relatively powerless and resemble social workers more often than not. Violent crime particularly here in the U.K. is at an all time low. Globally things are pretty good compared to 50-100 years ago. We just have a stale economy here and a reliance on fuel technology not dissimilar to that of 50 years ago. The troubles of our times are complex and debated but there's a lot of positive out there if you stop reading the guardian

Ah. Cool. Cheers in advance.

They front or rear bud? Is there a difference?

I'd be tempted, if you can't find a good replacement that is. To either relocate an appropriate battery to the boot, I don't personally merit that much tbh. Or have yours/another acid dipped and galvanised.

Can anyone advise me on some decent quality replacement rear wheel studs to suit 15mm spacers. I don't want to get some off the bay and shear them off first hard launch. The ones I've found only seem available in 10 or 20mm extension. Not sure if the 20s would be too long and prevent proper tightening?

Just to update this I checked the two 15A fuses in the footwell 0v. Tested the one aside it for reference and they were showing 12v. Pulled the glovebox to look for the resistor. I believe I found it and the blower motor itself. There was no power here either. So I guess fuse box removal next?

Ok so I pulled the data from the sensors this afternoon while I had a few minutes. They are as follows; 00 6 01 6 02 5 03 21 04 7 05 8 06 1 07 80 08 31 09 36 10 40 11 111 12 132 13 51 14 30 15 0 16 3 Obviously there's little point in the actuator readings at present because I have no fan to feel any difference. When I get a minute il go test the fuse power. I don't know what 09-16 indicate but number 08 mode door voltage reads 31 and the suggestion was this should read 0-5.

Cheers for the detailed reply Jeff. I'd assume it's a sensor fault due to the fact I've managed to successfully close that valve and cool the heat exchanger manually through the climate control diagnostic. It was probably not refitted when the original owner pulled lots of that stuff out to run his boom box cables. I've had this hot air only issue since I got the car. I suppose the logical step next with thatvthen is to go back through the diagnostics and get the sensor readings. Any idea why the blower isn't activating? This is a new problem that's occurred without me fiddling previously. Can I test wether the fan is recieving power, without pulling the dash apart? I assume there's a fuse or relay.

I thought that would be the case. Cheers for clearing that up.

I thought you were doing away with the Bangkok disco lights?