Stephen

I could do with one of those!

My local Nissan dealer (is in Toyota) have made it quite clear that they aren't aware or particularly interested in my non skyline classic Nissan. :lol:

I've test fitted a stillen to my own car that belonged to someone else and yeah fitnebt is indeed amazing.

Agreed, the mouse hole ones and vikside look crap. Although the ones on Daves car somehow work. Stillen, or rather copies of are what I intend to fit. The twinz ones are nice but I'm not paying for them. I don't like the way the vast majority have no swageline, it's like the designers never looked at the Z32 properly before making them. The Gracer (I think) looks good, except the swage line absence which ruins it. The similar one the petticoat (I always mix these two up) is not nice. I'd consider a Gracer in urethane if it fell in my lap so to speak but it's the 99 I want and they don't come up second hand much at all these days.

I think the skirts really add to the car tbf, exposed rocker sills like that are very old fashioned. Even similar aged cars have a better profile here. I've already cut and repaired that area on one side, the others pretty good, I'm not so worried about it. It's more something to watch than fear out right.

Anyone fitted one of CarMads 99 copies?

No, at least his cars blue. This cars even red. It's Gaz.

Nothing Andrew, that part of the issue. The change is purely cosmetic. I'd like it to sit lower to match the side skirts and that's easier/better end product with the 99. The other option, which I like is a Stillen lip, at that point me and a local member would be twins...

How sensible are Fibreglass bumpers? I've only ever lived with urethane or metal. Urethane has its obvious advantages, being virtually indestructible, however it's drawback is cost and availability. The reason I'm asking is I'm sorely tempted to fit a replica FG 99 spec. I know someone's going to say buy an OE one but the cost is not something I can justify, remember it's not just bumper it's the indicators, shipping, tax etc etc. Quite a chunk for something 100% cosmetic. Where as I can sort myself out with a fibreglass version for about half. Finding a used 99 is the obvious answer but when the average post for little everyday parts in the wanted section goes unresolved or even unanswered it's a greased unicorn. So thoughts and experiences. Will I regret it as I smash it to pieces in a months time rolling down the driveway as it shatters like sugar glass or is it just a case of if I have a bump the damage will be worse (however easily repaired).

The modification to get it to work with the ECU tricks the car into thinking it's in gear. The 15btdc is activated on manuals by a neutral position switch, without it you get 20btdc at idle.

It's not an automatic converted to manual by any chance?

Iirc you can remove some bits off the turbo, water lines, then use a socket on a long extension. Pretty sure I took them off with the manifolds complete last time. As suggested plenty of penetrant and heat. That snapped bit is going to be fun. Have you tried soaking it in penetrant then hitting it with a drift. You may find it ejects it backwards out the hole. I have a set from Machine Mart that allows you to use the Allen bits as a ratchet, that's what you want.

I have a feeling they are half inch Lee, there's some imperial stuff round there due to the Garret turbos. Makes your realise why removal with the engine in is a pita.

My ex's brother in law had one of these in black. Hit some cow shit in it and it ended up on the driveway getting covered in overspray from the fields either side until is was just scrap metal. That was about 10 years ago. Bet he is kicking himself now.

Well considering the current (and imo logical decision) is to validate everything as stands as UK law. What ever it is on the cut off point (this week maybe) is what it will remain to be. They will then amend and omit as they go. So basically I'd expect very little change with MOT law from the current stance.

Oh don't. Last year was silly, I failed about 6 things, 5 of which well. Even after I jumped through some very pedantic and arguably unnecessary hoops he taggged on "exhaust noisey". The car had done less than 3k miles since the previous year and it was the same test place, new tester. Some are very fair, it has to be said. Others, I swear they work for some cycling lobby.

Punning. Ditch the stock line and use a single long braided line from the master to slave, so much better. Available from ZCentre (you want the long one). The fluid is probably leaking through the master into the cabin, check under the dash for dampness where it goes through the firewall. Rebuild kits are cheap.

I used lines from Drift works, think they were skyline ones. If you look at the site it gives options for brake upgrades iirc. Straight fit.

Should be Andrew yeah. I seem to recall this lump thing being removed off the hub in my mind, but it recall it being like a thimble. Slitting disc and a heartbeat later it was gone.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?156152-SOLD-1990-SWB-NA-Manual-SOLD Looks like someone returned the front to an 89.

Welcome. I always find it hilarious when people say how big and heavy a Z32 is, certainly by modern standards they are pretty average if not small. Imposing though on the road.

Dependant on progress with mine me and the wife might come up.

Infact the front and rear of a 300zx don't lend themselves to a strut brace. The lateral load is across the sub frames, particularly in the rear. That's why the struts are held in with practically cheese, they aren't structural as such. Unfortunately though the TT body dos flex and the rear bar helps here. The biggest flex is in the front rails to body on the monoqote chassis.

So after some fannying about over these intercooler ducts (which has prevented me refitting the front bumper) based on the factory rubber portion, I finally said to hell with it and took a hack saw to the stock ducts. After all you won't ever see them other than with the bumper off, function trumps form here. The lower portion is fitted, and I've got to knock up some brackets to bolt the top half down. So once I've finished them il pop up a picture. As well all do there's been something annoying me and that's the chassis rails and front floor pan. I'd done some work on them last year but tbh it was rushed, a secondary item of lower importance. So today I removed what needed removing, including all that plastic tray over the lines, exhaust etc and masked up the gear box etc ready for some of this Upol Gravitex which comes highly recommended. These come in 1L bottles ready to be shot out my newly acquired Cavity Wax and Shultz gun. Not only will this make the aforementioned application 800xs easier (no exaggeration of corse) it will also allow me to drench the box sections mentioned previously. Il do this in high summer so the airs dry and use more of the Dynax S50 from The other iron in the fire is my rear BBK conversion. This is formed from some 350mm rotors off a 370z which will retain the handbrake function, mated with some Evo VII rear Brembo calipers. Bias should be better than stock with these. Big is an understatement and I'm a little concerned about clearing the rear 18" wheels. Winter works, time for a thread name change...

Yup. Hence the "equal length runners". Getting them to be equal and fit the application is where the spaghetti comes into play.