Stephen

Well considering the current (and imo logical decision) is to validate everything as stands as UK law. What ever it is on the cut off point (this week maybe) is what it will remain to be. They will then amend and omit as they go. So basically I'd expect very little change with MOT law from the current stance.

Oh don't. Last year was silly, I failed about 6 things, 5 of which well. Even after I jumped through some very pedantic and arguably unnecessary hoops he taggged on "exhaust noisey". The car had done less than 3k miles since the previous year and it was the same test place, new tester. Some are very fair, it has to be said. Others, I swear they work for some cycling lobby.

Punning. Ditch the stock line and use a single long braided line from the master to slave, so much better. Available from ZCentre (you want the long one). The fluid is probably leaking through the master into the cabin, check under the dash for dampness where it goes through the firewall. Rebuild kits are cheap.

I used lines from Drift works, think they were skyline ones. If you look at the site it gives options for brake upgrades iirc. Straight fit.

Should be Andrew yeah. I seem to recall this lump thing being removed off the hub in my mind, but it recall it being like a thimble. Slitting disc and a heartbeat later it was gone.

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?156152-SOLD-1990-SWB-NA-Manual-SOLD Looks like someone returned the front to an 89.

Welcome. I always find it hilarious when people say how big and heavy a Z32 is, certainly by modern standards they are pretty average if not small. Imposing though on the road.

Dependant on progress with mine me and the wife might come up.

Infact the front and rear of a 300zx don't lend themselves to a strut brace. The lateral load is across the sub frames, particularly in the rear. That's why the struts are held in with practically cheese, they aren't structural as such. Unfortunately though the TT body dos flex and the rear bar helps here. The biggest flex is in the front rails to body on the monoqote chassis.

So after some fannying about over these intercooler ducts (which has prevented me refitting the front bumper) based on the factory rubber portion, I finally said to hell with it and took a hack saw to the stock ducts. After all you won't ever see them other than with the bumper off, function trumps form here. The lower portion is fitted, and I've got to knock up some brackets to bolt the top half down. So once I've finished them il pop up a picture. As well all do there's been something annoying me and that's the chassis rails and front floor pan. I'd done some work on them last year but tbh it was rushed, a secondary item of lower importance. So today I removed what needed removing, including all that plastic tray over the lines, exhaust etc and masked up the gear box etc ready for some of this Upol Gravitex which comes highly recommended. These come in 1L bottles ready to be shot out my newly acquired Cavity Wax and Shultz gun. Not only will this make the aforementioned application 800xs easier (no exaggeration of corse) it will also allow me to drench the box sections mentioned previously. Il do this in high summer so the airs dry and use more of the Dynax S50 from The other iron in the fire is my rear BBK conversion. This is formed from some 350mm rotors off a 370z which will retain the handbrake function, mated with some Evo VII rear Brembo calipers. Bias should be better than stock with these. Big is an understatement and I'm a little concerned about clearing the rear 18" wheels. Winter works, time for a thread name change...

Yup. Hence the "equal length runners". Getting them to be equal and fit the application is where the spaghetti comes into play.

Well as no one seems to know or cares to comment, I did some googling and it would appear this flap thing is factory.

Nah. They've been making equal length runners like that since year dot. Those in fairness aren't that bad, some are mental. Check out this bag of cats.

Indeed, some of these height adjustable coilovers have spring rates of 13kgmm, up front. For comparison a set of the popular route of Konis fixed height dampers and Ebiach springs will have a rate of around 3.5kgmm! Of corse the damper is important and these huge rates are often used to mask poor dampening. I'm actually reducing my spring rates down to 6-4K front, rear as I don't need the high rates and it makes the car skippy and slower on normal roads.

Welcome along.

You can buy a 5L barrel of Dynax S50 cavity wax, which is highly regarded for about £50. Get yourself a lance off eBay for like a tenner and borrow a compressor if you don't own one and flood the cavities.

Probably air in the system, gives a false reading on the gauge. Complete the coolant bleed and fill process and it will go away.

Don't forget guys he is US based, so climate is different and brands may not be available.

The lower portion is removable so you can undo the Torque Converter from the Flex Plate, otherwise you'd be unable to remove the box. ;)

I looked at it and thought, that's been hacked about. Then looked again at the fixings and Velcro parts. It's quite a comprehensive hack, kinda sock looking.

:pinch: Yesssss, lol. That little rubber flap on one, normal?

Is this normal? Can't see a purpose for it and can't recall seeing it on others cars.

Brain fart. Got my brake pedal and clutch pedal mixed up there, sorry Chris.

We are indeed?

Not sure you can mix and match like that Ali, the NA pedal like what's come from your Donnor is unassisted and has a different pivot point to compensate. I can't say for sure but I'd guess fitting the NA arm into the TT frame would end up with different height pedals. Now that would be chip shop.