Stephen

Makes perfect sense I spose. Seems a bit brutal to gain a few mm I may pop the arch lining out and see if I can "encourage" a rake on the intercooler, as I say I only need a few mm.

I have indeed.

Starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Uncovered a small issue though, in that the intercooler is sitting a few mm too far forward to allow the indication housing to fit them back on. Anyone encountered this? Hopefully I can tweak something without removing the front bumper again. :taz: The newly assembled front struts are in and nipped up just need torquing up as I ran out of time.

I hope you got it for a reasonable price, nice find though. Good luck.

Cheers for the list massage Joel.

Ah good, see you next Tuesday :lol:

Springs installed

Is Chav censored?

The crazy thing is some old biffa that possibly should even have a car liecense still can attach a Caravan or Boat and off they go. I've seen some really nasty accidents occur because of this.

This is why I'm comfortable to go with a softer spring, the rest of the set up is there to allow the springs to not have to be so stiff. I hear if you combine a high rate with strong ARB it can make the car hard to control on the limit and snappy. Not desirable for a normal human. Advice taken 6kg/mm going on the front, 8k to be sold on and some 4s to be be purchased.

I'm not no but yes I can provide you with the info. Its best to text me but it's getting my number to you without putting it up in public. Howard sorted this.

It's the consistenty that's important here, you of corse don't know how accurate the gauge is. Your looking a big difference or range, for example a TT engine that is showing 140psi across all 6 is likely far healthier than one reading 160 on 4 and 140 on two. Between 150-160psi is good for a TT. Those 200psi numbers throw a flag, however there's not a big range and with the battery starting to flatten, if that engine isn't showing any other symptoms then I'd be alright with that. Maybe retest that 175 with a freshly charged battery.

Cheers for the feed back guys, their older units not Meister, with no adjustment on damper. I've got the Stillen ARB which are set soft F medium R at present. But as you say Pete I can feel the spring rate being too high is making the car slower in real life situations, I'm sure on a smooth as glass track it would be fine and tbh once I'm out of the little roads it's ok. The little cracked, potholed, repaired and lorry tutted etc roads it skips like well skippy. The current rate is unknown, but looking at the thickness of the spring and its length and the feel of the ride I'd say high. I did find some math to calculate it but haven't got round to it, gonna take me a few minutes to do these sums. :whack: Spring Rate = GD^4/8ND^3 G=Torsional Modulus for Steel = 11.25x10^6 D=Wire Diameter in Inches N=Number of Active Coils D=Mean Coil Diameter in Inches 8=A Constant for all Coil Springs Also not to be forgotten was my upper arm faux par, how much of the big bumps were actually contact on that arm and mount...hard to say, but there was a definite clunk at times.

A selection of springs arrived today with a pair rated at 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm, these should be a bit softer. If there not the 6kg ones will go up front and I can switch in some 4kg ones to the rear. Exciting stuff :tt2: anyway a photo for those interested in some springs :lol:

Hot or cold and NA or TT numbers, regardless they are very high.

Happy birthday mate!

We've topped 30, let's hit 50 cars guys that's a real proper number. Probably the south biggest Z meet of the year. Get yourself down. Pre meet cruise is set to be announced as is a new addition this year for 300zx club members exclusively of a choice between a country pub dinner, a new forest car treasure hunt or a BBQ limitations will apply to this event. Let me know what interests you. This will likely be the afternoon/evening before. See the cover page for the list.

There's probably two full days labour in it but I'm short on a few parts etc. Got to wait for pay day to finish up a few bits. I might have it back on the floor running by then, might but I'd still need to get the MOT and Alignment sorted.

Do it warm mate, that's the way with a compression test. If your looking at assessing a motor you can run, in storage etc then a leak down is what you want.

I would but I do t think olive ready in time.

Dreadful problems to have :lol:

That's what I thought, never seen a copy of one before.

What front lip is that, never seen one like that in fibreglass.

I too have found this when I replaced the nipples on my Brembos.