Stephen

Winner. Have you decided where your getting the piston rings from?

Kinda hankering over an early 2000s E55 at present myself.

That's good then. Didn't know if you were using the original block or another one or what, plus the fact you never know what's been done.

I think there are genuine ones, as apposed to cars with half a yaucht grafted to it.

It may not even be the sensor itself. The fault, code 34 is "knock sensor circuit" not Knock sensor. You cannot simply remove it or short it, a broken or shorted wire will still throw code 34. In my case the loom itself was damaged. You can make a sub harness with an old knock sensor plug and solder in a 1mega ohm resistor tricking the ECU into seeing a functional if hyperthetical sensor. In any event it's functionality is limited, puts you into safety boost. At idle and off boost your not going to notice, it certainly isn't a limp mode. I think you can safely pop that one to one side for the immediate moment. Do you have consult or equivalent?

Why don't you spend a day cutting back the bad paint and get yourself a roll of Vinyl. It will look great for a few paces and it won't cost much. Gets you going and feeling positive. The mechanics is probably not that bad in reality.

Just a new BM57.

I found I was locking up at the front far too easily, hence why I'm now switching the rear brakes to a more balance ratio. Changing my BMC also seemed to help.

The Andrews have really grown on me. I'm starting to lust over something period like that for mine.

Well that's promising, just have to see if it returns now.

Makes sense really as Joel says. It's a shame TT.net is an awful site to use.

Have you checked the injectors themselves? Free and doesn't take long. Maybe Ines a bit out of spec and throwing things about

Keep it up guys. I did my first 12k last week. 1 hour 4 seconds, legs ached for a day or two. Been out this morning for a five miler, when I started my original 1.6miles felt hard. Booked in now and committed to my first half Marathon in October. Hope to be near your time Stella.

Looking good bud.

That's the spanner/socket size your talking about. The actual thread size for the nuts and bolts would be closer to M6 I'd guess. Some are actually screws with hex heads, such as the arch liner to bumper bracket ones. If I get 10 minutes il have a look for you.

Maybe it's your arms as my car had stupid camber before I corrected it. Lowering the car a lot will cause silly camber on stock arms. I wish I had pictures. I hope your not going this far; It's been done, rightly or wrongly. It's just not the fashion with these cars, more the sub 100hp hatch back crew. Here's an article on of the cars above. http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/12/raising-a-middle-finger-freakin-works-z32/

Indeed they are a hybrid between a T22 and a T25 I believe. If they are stock CHRA (core and wheels basically) then yes they will still have some play. It's only if you go to a Ball Bearing style turbo that the play isn't there. Going forward you need to ensure your supplying the correct oil pressure to the turbos, there's a handed bolt in the feeds and that the engine, particularly its crank breathers are up to the job. Excessive crank case pressure will make your turbos smoke regardless. Oil starvation will kill a turbo double quick.

Are they the later style E.G. valves?

What exactly do you want to achieve? If I understand correctly your asking how to run excessive camber to allow you to "fit" (I use that term very losey) a set of wheels that don't fit properly?

Sure it's oil? There are a number of small metal and rubber hoses at the back there that can fail. A pin hole could show as evaporation esp on shut down when things are hot and pressurised. I had the same issue when I brought mine. The other option is the exhaust cam covers don't use a seal per say and the sealant fails over time. Oil then drops out the joint evaporating/smoking off the exhaust manifold. When was the last time this car was serviced?

Stock turbos are a hybrid, it rather depends on what was used.

Some shaft play in the stock turbos is normal. They are journel bearing turbos, the shaft is held central on a film of oil through hydrostatic pressure. I don't mean to say they are right, just that they shouldn't be solid. Good luck with your refund.

There's no hopefully about Mr P. Be careful.

Start from the known. Andrew has made a great suggestion and what your describing sounds mechanical rather than electrical so start there. With the engine off. Pop the throttle cover (plastic central cover off) and manipulate the mechanism. See if it operates smoothly and isn't notchy. You should be able to see if it's hitting the breather pipes Andrew highlighted, equally you could unhook the throttle and cruise control cables to isolate them from the equation. Once your satisfied there isn't a mechanical problem then you can begin to look at sensors such as the Throttle Position Sensor. You will need a multimeter for this stage. There's a number of sensors that could cause what your describing.

If your going to breathe you need feed. Too long have his turbos been on casual mode.