Stephen

Is that quite right? I thought Z32s pre 93 were regarded as pre cat and not subjected to this? The turbo seals probably already have failed in this instance and the decat/loss of back pressure simply illuminates the fault.

I've had this car now the best part of ten years, it's lived outside that whole time pretty much, covered but outside. It's been a daily driver when I first got it, a second car used every weekend regardless, in all weathers including snow at least once. Now a days it mostly doesn't go anywhere, because I'm working on it but in seriousness when it is on the road it's used for the fun of it. This has taken its toll on the body work, gravel scars, stone chips, car park *******s and worst of all a paint reaction when my original bonnet started peeling. The drive train and underside are, aside from one area that needs some attention still, bloody good. The top side of the car is letting the side down these days. Here's some highlights or lowlights if you prefer. I've pretty much resigned myself to the fact that half the car needs paint again, it had a blow over in 2007 by the previous owner. He reckons it was a full respray but I can tell you quite clearly it wasn't. I really can't decide how to progress on this. I had sort of decided on wrapping it. Why? Because I could do it myself with minimal time input and the cost was low, sub £400. No poisonous gasses to worry about and it would give me a few years to save up a few grand for a full job. A recent BBQ with some mates though and they all really put me off the idea. The scars are still there underneath. One friend who is way more body work savvy than I am reckons it's half a car essentially that needs painting. His recommendation was to chat to his body work guy because for the kind of money I'm talking a deal could probably be done to sort it all out. So what do you guys think? I'm not building a show car, I just don't want it to look like a shit box. Good from 5 feet is fine by me.

If mine had a name it would be Frankezien. Half the car isn't original anymore. The shell may be the original but the entire drive train, engine, box, rear subframe the lot was sourced else where.

Awesome.

Cherry pearl well executed is a great colour.

Nice clean work there Joel.

Don't blame you Pete, one less thing to deal with and break. I've considered doing the same as one of ballasts started playing up, if a bulb blows you can't get them off the shelf etc. As you say the stock covers what you personally need.

Be worth taking your time to do it proper mate, even if you just remove the fans belts etc and the front cover to check it's all aligned again. For the sake of what two hours? Could end up rather painful on your pocket...

You get the idea.

Looks like a glittery turd. I'd rather eat my own sick than that etc, etc. I joke of corse, it's looking great mate.

I think you will find winding those top rings up compressing the spring will add preload not stiffen the spring. Spring rate is fixed by the spring itself, it's to do with how the spring is made. Changing spring rate requires new springs. Didn't you say your spring rate was 10k F 8k R, this should be enough for any street car. Maybe you have another issue that's your car feel soft. Did you overhaul your suspension or just slap the coilovers on? Why did your turbo elbows come loose? Seems odd they all loosened off, did you forget to torque them up or did you use the wrong hardware? Not sure how the picture will hold up against the exhaust temperatures on the turbo.

It will probably break into bits as you remove it. Make sure you install the new one correctly.

Anyone who thinks UK roads are unsafe needs to drive in some different countries. Parts of Spain and France are dire, like shocking. Turkey is pretty fun, not. On the other hand Holland is great.

Better without.

Combined with a relatively small inner barrel compared to wheel diameter. I will probably go that way and would ideally some period Volks or similar. Who knows on the budjet, one for next year I'd say. The kitchen has wiped me out ATM.

Long over due Si, there just not what I want anymore but the budget isn't there ATM. Still undecided what I do want though and there's a secret squirrel idea floating about that would make any wheels that fit now totally useless.

For real?

We still have traditional gypsies round here. There's a guy that collects scrap on a horse and cart, he's no bother, only takes what you leave at the end of the drive. Won't come on the drive or come knocking, he just says "put it on the verge mush and il take it." We don't have any Romos this part of town and I think tbh the traditional gypsies wouldn't take kindly to their turf being invaded.

If it has it hasn't been done well. Probably find one of the hard pipes leaks due to corrosion.

I've been annoyed with the state of my wheels for a season or two, some curb rash combined with the colour which was supposed to be graphite, it was actually a steely navy colour in some lights, not a good look on a red car. There a unfortunate offset for how low the car is and I've had to add some spacers to get the fitment right at this height compared and accolade the brakes. At 8j and 9j respectively there a touch narrow for my ultimate aims, in short I'm not planning on keeping them longer term. A tin of black hammerite has been waiting patiently on the shelf for just this job. Before; After a few coats. Leave them now for a few days to harden before I hit them with the compound polisher. Not perfect but better.

Fellow 300zxclub member and REO Howard aka bigh has stepped up to the plate and will now be guiding you in and will be our representative for the day. As I said before I will still be here upto the day to answer your PMs update lists etc etc. Cheers again Howard.

Real time timing on the engine should match what the ECU talk read out is saying. The ECU "reading" is not a reading at all it's just saying what the timing should be. At idle in park with a warm engine it should be 15btdc on both.

Where are you reading 20 degrees from? Have you referenced a psychical reading to the ECU displayed timing? Is the car upto operating temperature? Is the car automatic, manual or a conversion?

No there is no sensor to detect turbo seizure. You can disconnect the turbo outlet pipework and MAF connection and see if air is expelled while the engine is running. Rubber glove over the outlet does the job. Have you gone through the basics? Seems to be some misunderstanding of what does what going on here.

Maybe worth hiding a spare screen somewhere safe then lads.