Everything posted by Stephen
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Richie's "Redzer" rebuild
Could be an overlay that speedo.
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What did you do to your zed today?
Yup, I've now realised if I take the photo with the volume button down it works fine.
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Error code 13
I think it's the same as the IACC one, that plug is common through most Nissans from that era, Almeras etc
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Error code 13
When mine did it was because the connection plug was crap, replaced it and it's hunky dory now.
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JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build
I did it in situe. Thing is I knew not to and got carried away. That whole thing was a mess, pan came off three times in the end. :lol:
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JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build
I've done it myself :lol:
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Rust inside the rear arch & brake pipes.
Do you recon that's been easier from the inside? Looks like it makes sense and especially if your working outside a breeze can ruin your work particularly using CO2.
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Larger battery fitting, type, sizes, power, etc.
Brexit hasn't bumped up your battery cost Ali, gamblers have. :P More relivantly if you know someone with a trade card for Halfords thier batteries are half decent and reasonably priced. Then of corse if it fails in the warrenty period you can go shout at a spotty teenager on a Saturday and get an exchange, which is worth a few quid all by itself.
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JaiKai - MK2 - Ziggy Build
This. Don't forget the stock configuration sucks in oil vapour to combust. I wouldn't go disturbing the short block, removing pistons etc unless you need to or want to rebuild it. Be worth running the pistons up and down the bores by turning the crank and inspecting the bores.
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What did you do to your zed today?
You don't have stock turbos though do you?
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Project Dittohead Red
Thanks Andrew. Yes! Like it. Got a few kicking about. That looks like the precious few mm I need.
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Project Dittohead Red
Makes perfect sense I spose. Seems a bit brutal to gain a few mm I may pop the arch lining out and see if I can "encourage" a rake on the intercooler, as I say I only need a few mm.
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Project Dittohead Red
I have indeed.
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Project Dittohead Red
Starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Uncovered a small issue though, in that the intercooler is sitting a few mm too far forward to allow the indication housing to fit them back on. Anyone encountered this? Hopefully I can tweak something without removing the front bumper again. :taz: The newly assembled front struts are in and nipped up just need torquing up as I ran out of time.
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Richie's "Redzer" rebuild
I hope you got it for a reasonable price, nice find though. Good luck.
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Simply Japanese 2017
Cheers for the list massage Joel.
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300zx clubs on Facebook
Ah good, see you next Tuesday :lol:
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Project Dittohead Red
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300zx clubs on Facebook
Is Chav censored?
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Towing a 300
The crazy thing is some old biffa that possibly should even have a car liecense still can attach a Caravan or Boat and off they go. I've seen some really nasty accidents occur because of this.
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Project Dittohead Red
This is why I'm comfortable to go with a softer spring, the rest of the set up is there to allow the springs to not have to be so stiff. I hear if you combine a high rate with strong ARB it can make the car hard to control on the limit and snappy. Not desirable for a normal human. Advice taken 6kg/mm going on the front, 8k to be sold on and some 4s to be be purchased.
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Project Dittohead Red
I'm not no but yes I can provide you with the info. Its best to text me but it's getting my number to you without putting it up in public. Howard sorted this.
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Compression test
It's the consistenty that's important here, you of corse don't know how accurate the gauge is. Your looking a big difference or range, for example a TT engine that is showing 140psi across all 6 is likely far healthier than one reading 160 on 4 and 140 on two. Between 150-160psi is good for a TT. Those 200psi numbers throw a flag, however there's not a big range and with the battery starting to flatten, if that engine isn't showing any other symptoms then I'd be alright with that. Maybe retest that 175 with a freshly charged battery.
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Project Dittohead Red
Cheers for the feed back guys, their older units not Meister, with no adjustment on damper. I've got the Stillen ARB which are set soft F medium R at present. But as you say Pete I can feel the spring rate being too high is making the car slower in real life situations, I'm sure on a smooth as glass track it would be fine and tbh once I'm out of the little roads it's ok. The little cracked, potholed, repaired and lorry tutted etc roads it skips like well skippy. The current rate is unknown, but looking at the thickness of the spring and its length and the feel of the ride I'd say high. I did find some math to calculate it but haven't got round to it, gonna take me a few minutes to do these sums. :whack: Spring Rate = GD^4/8ND^3 G=Torsional Modulus for Steel = 11.25x10^6 D=Wire Diameter in Inches N=Number of Active Coils D=Mean Coil Diameter in Inches 8=A Constant for all Coil Springs Also not to be forgotten was my upper arm faux par, how much of the big bumps were actually contact on that arm and mount...hard to say, but there was a definite clunk at times.
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Project Dittohead Red
A selection of springs arrived today with a pair rated at 8kg/mm and 6kg/mm, these should be a bit softer. If there not the 6kg ones will go up front and I can switch in some 4kg ones to the rear. Exciting stuff :tt2: anyway a photo for those interested in some springs :lol: