Stephen

don't worry now you've got one that isn't constantly breaking you can break it deliberately, or modifying as addicts call it lol. ive just spent 6 months fixing mine because I decided to piss about with it lol.

what would I do with this? id stick a vg lump back between those inner wings and drive it :p

lol yeah I agree that his is better looking, but sadly im not in charge of Nissan :( if I was the 350 wouldn't have been nearly as lame. I looked about 1300 without tyres but finding them in 5x114 would be a pain. you may find copies though I found some copies for cheap.

trouble is ian Nissan believe they have already made a retro homage back to the 240 they called it the 350 and moreover the 370. there is a 380in the pipeline, its suppose dto look something like this http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=380z&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbnid=l769bL8vOPGsDM:&imgrefurl=http://my350z.com/forum/2009-370z/495532-when-is-the-380z-coming-8.html&docid=bW5EmWeJ3oKR_M&imgurl=http://www.roadandtrack.com/var/ezflow_site/storage_RT_NEW/storage/images/highlights/frontpage/additional-coverage/2013-nissan-z/2322518-3-eng-US/2013-nissan-z.jpg&w=1280&h=782&ei=HeHlUO6NPMSp0QWfpoDYBA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=2&vpy=281&dur=2238&hovh=175&hovw=287&tx=144&ty=101&sig=112053901119415752764&page=3&tbnh=139&tbnw=210&start=46&ndsp=33&ved=1t:429,r:65,s:0,i:303 and just cos your a lucky boy those wheels are bbs ch and already exist :)

Looks like a twinz

when im not obsenly poor me and you are going to have to to talk about squeezing the magic 400 hp outta my car. lol

do you need any machining done as that's going to really hang things out. if you were pulling one block and dropping in another with two pairs of hands youd be done in a long day I recon aslong as you've done it before and the deletes are all done and theres no hiccups. however once you start cracking open blocks and moving things that haven't been moved for 20 odd years thats were time just slips out your hands

The more pressing question is when will he stop taking parts off.

A honda jazz

you my friend are going to need adjustable coilovers

i think its just broken, it looks like some one stole half the suspension

some years ago these bloody scooter things started showing up in skateparks all over the country, and have now become an "extreme" sport in their own right. now at what point did the toy of a toodler become a sport? they are so annoying and disliked that entry for them is now resisted to one evening a week, joy. but scooters along with these silly cross over suv mum cars are two fashions that need to be put to bed already.

Yeah pesky aivs, mine did it. Delete them and the rats nest thats comes with them

whilst fiddling about the the dash, i discovered a spur from the front fogs that goes into a switch on my dash, and and disappears into the back of teh dashboard i think if i follow it i may find out what the end of this mystery is.

just get rid it freshens the car up so much not having that funny black line from 1989

isnt there another blue one in our neck of the woods in your area more so rob>?

Probally rob, did it have an aftermarket spoiler?

Have you got them bent up or folded down one of those them seen to jam on.

Well yeah I see your point but is part of a breatherr system thats not working 100% is it not. The pcv on the vg isnt the best as we know but thats a genera engine issue not a reason for tub failure I dont think, especially with the exhaust housing its so hot.

Any chance of a link mate zcrolling through on the phone is a pita.

Some of you may have picked up recently on my turbo failure, sadly I'm an eager beaver. So I went about wanting to know why the turbo seals, in particular, fail. essentially there are two seals, for the purposes of discussion we will call them front and rear. To define what I mean by this the front is the one pointing towards the front of the engine (cambelt end) the rear is obviously the opposite end which is the exhaust compressor end. The seals themselves sit in a recess on the turbo shaft and look very much like a piston ring. The rear one is the commonest one to fail, it seems for our turbos. The reason for this is over pressure from the oil side, causing it to go some where it was never intended. With decatted cars the area of low pressure behind the turbo at idle is an easy route out past the worn seal straight into the exhaust causing white/pale grey smoke, not blue. so this may be because your pcvs are not functioning correctly and are over pressurising the sump pan, this makes it difficult for the oil fed into the turbo to drain out via gravity as easy as it should, hence it finds its way out the shaft seal. Mine was odd in that it wouldn't smoke at idle but at 2k rpm smoke would pour out, this was because the passing oil was puddling up in the compressor housing (the snail shell) then when the flow built up out it came. Within the turbo you will find some small oil galleries that the oil drains out via gravity, in teh scenario where the car isnt run down properly or oil changed regularly enough the oil cokes up and blocks these galleries, causing the same issue as the pcvs ie an back up in oil within the housing. So next time some one says the reason your turbos failed and started smoking is because you decatted its not the whole picture, and this is why refitting them can mask worn seals, that backpressure at the cats will up the limit of pressure able to build up in the housing, before they leak. In situations where the seal isnt damaged simply refitting would sort the smoke, but you will still have a system that isnt running as intended. However replacing your pcs may go a long way further to solving the issue. One of the tubs I had as a spare the front one was leaking, all i can assume is that this one came from a car with cats and the easiest place to pass was the front one, or the seal itself had worn just like a piston ring. I chose to take the extra precaution, and fit both 360 degree bearings and stepped rear oil seals. the stepped rear oil seal is well pretty self explainatory it is stepped both sides to make a better seal. the 360 bearing we all discuss i found out are neither 360 degrees or a bearing. its actually a flat piece of metal 270 degrees to look at that the thrust bearing sits on. below is an exploded veiw so you can see what all the componets are and were they are. There isnt really much in there. the rear seal is number 5, and the thrust bearing is number 8 the front seal is located into this. and clips into the cover plate(number 11) to make the seal. and number 6 is that "bearing" in the stock shape, the 360 degree one looks like a D shape. The other common issue is oil starvation causing excessive wear on the bearings and subsequent failure or damage due to well not enough oil passing through the turbo. The bearings themselves are hydro statically filled, this is why you will get a small amount of play side to side but not forwards and backwards on the shaft when there is no oil pressure. Once the oil pressure increases it locks the shaft into suspension hydro statically. The bearings are labled 1 and held into the housing with the funny circlips labeled 2. there is also a retaining spring after the rear one on our turbos not the tab in this picture this was added later to make it easier, labled 4. If your thinking of doing a home rebuild the worst part is removing the massive circlip labled 15, the easiest way to do this is pry it out with some old flat blade screwdrivers. I also found removing the coverplate a little tricky with it being made of some kind of graphite it chips easily if you lever it, much better to grab the notch of it with some needle nose pliers and pull. once apart clean the housing thoroughly and check the mating surfaces of the seals very closley. Lastly and most importantly they MUST be balanced afterwards otherwise your wasting your time. They are spinning incredibly fast and a slight imbalance will rip them apart sooner than later. I hope this all helps explain some of the mysteries of what those snails contain and why they break, sorry for the poor English and if you have any questions if I can help I will do my best. I used CRturbos based in Hampshire for the rebuild kit and the balancing, Craig and the team there was very helpful and informative.

Its really not, you have 4 choices r33 gtr calipers, straight fit. Z33 calipers, drill out mounting hole to accomadate larger bolt, brembo evos, require a cixing bracket. Or d2/ksport kits. The hard bit is doing it on budjet. But the swap is easy.

I didnt fit it so ive no idea how the things wired, theres 4 cabl es s going into it.

right ive pulled the dash cluster out this morning and removed the speedo, had a good look over the solder joints in the light and they look pretty good, thinking back before i changed my speedo from the 300kph one i had the same issue its just got worse. anyways, i also looked at the speed sensor its all intact and not hanging out. the only thing i can think the problem is now is that the speed converter is junk. its spliced into the harness with bullet crimps. il be trying it out today to see what happens but yeah need to sort it really.

I posted up a link for you a week or so back to a chap on sxoc that does a package with the brackets discs braided lines etc.