Stephen

my speedo has always been a bit intermittent, but now its duff. it will work occasionally if ive been stationary up to about 20mph, then it just drops off. then i get hicas warning and no powered steering. now ive read the articles about dry joint and all the rest but if i pull it all apart what exactly am i looking for with a "dry" joint? and do i just remelt it and add some more solder? i also read jeffs thread on the speed sensor popping out its cartridge, and causing the issue. but how do i check the actual functionality of the speed sensor?

mines doing the same, and i want it sorted before it causes problems but it seems to be coming out behind the plastic on the targa, the vynal covering is lifting with the wet.

Yeah I would expect it to be one or more of the little water pipes that go from the tubs, they also connect to the plenum and the hard parts rust. The layout is designed to allow convection current to passivly cool the turbo after shutdown, so the water in there moves slowly pulling heat away all that heat etc takes its toll and the rubber perishes. Remove yojr battery and zhine a torch down the back you will be able to see them.

Theres plenty about, its worth soaking up as much zed knowledge as possible before you take the plundge. And going out in one or two to see whatva healthy one feels like

if you google them you will see some drastic differences in the calliper looks wise, the brembo calliper is bigger and more solid looking for starts and there are different marking on them. make sure its off an r33 or 34 i nearly got stung like this the r32 gtr has near on the same breaks as us.

2k to pull the block rebuild the tubs and service the engine cambelt etc is very cheap mate, but id be cautious over their experience level with the car.

what apart of hampshire are you in im in bournemouth with a few other members and theres a few your way now, if i can be any help in choosing acar to you let me know.

I backed outta going through a puddle today after watching the landy infront get water half way up.its doors!

pop the targa out and you will see some drain hole sin the inlayed metal. get a jug of water and pour that down the hole, you should see a dribble coming out the sill, front and rear depending on the hole you put it in. so that first things first, the second thing is to check that the square piece in the corner is still seated properly most are not esp if the cars been touched up or resprayed, this allows water to pass through into the cabin. futher more and more obviously you may notice like mine a dribble that runs down the window where the rubber is squashed and no longer firmly presses against the window. - - - Updated - - - vaseline is petrolem based and will deteroate rubber, silicone is a far better alternative.

this is really starting to get into the nitty gritty of what i wanted and giving me some things to take away and learn on my own. im becoming progressively more interested as each day passes in they way a car works not just mechanically but design wise why things are built how they are and how changes we make change things for the better or worse sometimes. i also totally agree that the car is generally better than the driver, certainly to push my zed even though its near stock on a public road would be pushing on beyond the boundaries of whats legal and driving it on its limit would be about my current level of skill, im just a normal person not a race car driver. i think ultimately what i want to achieve is a car that is comparably as controlled and grippy through the bends as a modern sports car like the z34 or similar, my car has no quams in catching most things in a straight line but the corners that make me loose confidence in it. i also want to take the car out on track a few times this coming year to actually be able to drive it properly without fear of loosing my license which i depend on for work, without being slower than something like an stock mx5 or boyed up focus, i dont really have any experiences in terms of this so i really dont know what my car is capable of in comparison to others. in reality though its not about racing i just want the car to feel liek a solid and controllable machine not an axe murder that will wrap me round the closet tree at a hint of damp.

the current setup ive got is tyres: front falken 452s 225x30x18 rear perelli pzero 265x30x18 the shocks are bilstien with ebiach spings witha 30 front drop 20mm rear drop. few polybushes here and there but not everywere, the hicas i think is a big weak link in my car the rear feel rather floaty. in terms of a fast road car set up are aftermarket camber arms necessary ? srry for the sp

i think your getting on the answer here technology of bushes etc the compouns they are made of has moved on, but even replacing with oenm wiuld make a massive duifference but its pushing teh car beyond what it was orginally capable of is where my mind is puzzling.

i dont really see the point in terms of components they are very similar in design simply purchasing or adjusting shocks and springs that match your requirements will be just as effective.

I did day aside from weight I actually dont think its that heavy comparitivly the z3y is just as heavy and the average sloon these daus is def heavier

obviously most would agree that mechanically the z32s greatest fault is space, that engine is in their snug! which causes and creates a whole hoast of other issues. however thats not what im thinking about, been thinking about bobs car today and how well it goes round corners. thinking back i seem to remember pete saying that nothing drastic had been done to the chassis. so what is it about the stock setup of the z32s suspension that makes it less good through the turns than many other sports cars of a simular weight class, im led to believe the z33 and z34 go round corners far better? obviously other cars of a simular age im thinking yank tanks have issue slike crappy leaf springs etc but the zeds quite modern under there with the double wishbones etc and our cars use quite a few of teh same parts that are used in teh skylines which are renowned for great handling. so i guess what im asking is whats the best way to make a z32 go round a bend faster and under more control, and what is the major limiting factor in that game.

please dont tak ethis the wrong way as im not very good at explaining myself but what exactly does this mean? theres not much info here apart from pricing structures i assume thsi is part of the historic show not a set s30 meeting or festival. in terms of that and parade laps how does that stand the z32? as we are meer modern classics not historic class. just a little confused tbh.

how do i resub and is it still only a tenner for a resub?

I relocated my side lights into the corner light msles the car look wider and its easier access.

They dont, thats the fog light adjuster, you remove the corner light which gives you acess to the fognside light from behind, few 10mm nuts and it slides out.

makes sense strange though that nit ended up wider, i guess its to do with the roof line?

once your a subscribed member it becomes an option on people profile.

nope they will cost you around 200 maybe less if your good at looking. also they are newer and even bigger, the problem with gtr calipers is the fact they are now getting on, most sets with teh dics are now going to set you back 400 maybe its alot of cash for 15+ year old calipers.

i think you will find pete it yanking your chain.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?538979-345mm-EVO-Caliper-big-brake-kit-special-%A3305-D may be of some interest to you.

I think its cos you cant move the seat as far back, but its the same seat, hell its the same car With a few inches missing. I commented to gaz about it a while back that his shorty felt less roomy, but there was some stuff behind the seat we put it down to that.