Stephen

swbs are very common in the states as they didn't make lwb twinturbos for their home market. in the uk lwb tt was the only one released so all swb are import, hence the rarity. and at the end of the day its personal preference, if you want a fast road car either is fine if you want a track car a slicktop or at least a swb are pretty much the best starting block. have you checked the insurance and running costs though? I don't know what sorta spare cash youve got but at 20 these are pretty expensive cars to run.

that's not many fish in 450 litres of water really so overstocking out the question, I spoke to a friend of mine for you today who is currently working with bournemouths oceanarium, and was previously to that a big of a big wig within the company maindenheadaquatics. anyways what he was saying is that because you're putting in effectively dirty water its a chain reaction. Ideally id like to do a 50% change on that tank, with good quality water and then reduce down to 25% for the next few weeks, obviously that isn't going to very easy when doing 200+ litres of water, not to mention expensive. but I think at that level even a 50% with 40ppm no3 in it will help. then move onto ro for the 25%s. get those nitrate sponges recharged and hammer it. move the outlet of your filter close to the surface to it breaks the surface as much as possible, causing turbulence and bubbles, this will increase your gas exchange. personally id reduce the amount of gravel in your tank that deep bed at the back is a damn sediment trap. furthermore id reduce your feeding down to one every other day and push you onto a good quality flake such as newera. aquariun flake food is full of crap and not very high in nutritional value. did I read that your po4 is 0.25? with a no3 of 160? that is imbalanced and I would be surprised if you didn't have cyanobacteria. link here.... http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/cyanobacteria-23633/

wasn't it in portsmount last year or something? its in York now though :( that's the opposite end of the country.

ahh ok that makes sense, thankyou for clarifying. that make sit easier to understand whats going on, it would be cool if noz or someone did a quick thread to show how these graphs work and what is optimal.

just buy some diesel europeon estate, audi, vw preferably 4wd but front is fine with the correct tyres. its the most popular choice for that sorta thing for a reason.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=clarke+top+box&num=10&hl=en&tbo=d&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbnid=mkWYNQq1IqErZM:&imgrefurl=http://www.monstermarketplace.com/hand-tools-and-power-tools/clarke-tool-box-27-wide-9-drawer-top-3-drawer-middle-7-drawer-bottom&docid=EtzNy2VPiz8wZM&imgurl=http://cf.mp-cdn.net/56/62/666752c8eb6dcd68de4c6640831d.jpg&w=800&h=800&ei=1hPzUPSWLeTD0QXuhIGQDg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=715&vpy=100&dur=792&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=133&ty=126&sig=112053901119415752764&page=1&tbnh=138&tbnw=134&start=0&ndsp=30&ved=1t:429,r:27,s:0,i:169 that's the top box ive got, they did at the time do one which was wider and had some deeper drawers, which in hindsight would have been better. mallets and valve clamps etc don't fit in the drawers.

yeah its good quality, I had the non nearing drawers before and when your putting heavy stuff in them they fail quick, so these ones with the roller drawers are much better. my mates got some bloody expensive snap'on one its expensive lol.

clear water isn't always clean water, regular testing allows proper management that allows you to see the future before things go downhill, but good on you for your successes, and you are correct the larger the body of water the more stable it is, conversely the larger it is the more of a pita it is when it does go wrong. I work with thousands of gallons of water every day at work , and big can be a nightmare.

lol see you have been influenced by takeshi amano without even knowing it check his stuff out bud.

is that not dangeroulys lean in the midrange? and the fueling curve doesn't match the raise in boost? I use question marks because im learning this stuff so they are much questions as observations.

somehow I managed to convince myself I needed the black and gold top box of this range lol.

theres somethings you can try there bud java fern an Anubis are quite bad tasting and should avoid the grazing, or you can use some good quality fakes, or a mix of both, which works well. the above plants are often available attached to wood, which are a little more costly but look great, and you don't have to fill the tank. have a look at Japanese aquariums(yes theres jdm fish tank fan boys too haha.) less can be more.

speak of the devil and he shall appear....:devil2: I haven't used the product itself, although Im aware of similar products. I would stick with the manufactures instructions, however I wouldn't use the product in the first instance. Using products like these are often a cover up tbh, if your experiencing high nitrate then something is a miss, so I would start by solving the cause rather than the symptom. I see you suffer from the issue regardless of water changes, have you ever tested your tap water? Its not uncommon for tap water to be filled with nitrate and phosphate and high in other total dissolved solids. So I would start there, obviously if what you put in in as dirty as what's being removed your achieving nothing. Countray to popular belief tapsafe does not make tap water safe, its merely a chlorine reducer, probably sodium thiosuphate. There are ways round this thankful, the best being reverse osmosis water which is stocked by most lfs, be carefull with this as unreputable ones will not keep upto date and will sell you nutrient rich R.O. You cannot test R.O with convention test kits, you must use a tds meter. to buy your own unit is actually pretty cheap and cost effective. If you find this isn't an issue and your tap water is clean, then I think its bets to start looking at what loads your putting on your system. Ie is it over stocked? over fed? or other factors such as deep substrate beds becoming nitrate factories due to anaerobic activity, or insuffient gas exchange not allowing the nitrogeon cycle to complete at the correct rate(least likely) Anyways lets keep this thread going over the next few weeks, and try to get down to the nitty gritty of it, and solving your issue. :) sorry if any of that was teaching you to suck eggs, and if it wasn't quite the answer you were looking for but as you know I like to do things properly.

I'm about 8 years old, with 3 points, classic policy with footman james limited to 1500 miles. 4 years ncb. and I live in sunny sunny Bournemouth, its not actually gods waiting room, we have our fare share of scum, we import them for drug rehab :)

I got the 13ft float rod out, the centre pin and a few pints of red maggot and trotted the day away for grayling. no grayling but 3 lovely brown trout. couldn't feel my toes for well along time. not everyones perfect day but I drove the zed on Friday :)

harby: £350 is still pretty cheap, im with footman james, second car on limited mileage and classic policy so that all helps. I was with flux before that nearly a grand! no thanks. stonewall: it must just be the London thing plus the whole parking it on the road at night, that pushes it up. must suck, but then everything in London is twice the price aint it.

Unless your 12, a convicted drunk driver or live in a warzone thats very expensive. Most members pay around 400 and some pay naff all I pay 150 a year.

I think its the 3+" that give sit that characteristic warble the labree sounds similar.

cheers gaz we will soon have them both out on those open spring roads.

its a bloody slicktop aswel what a bloody waste.

yeah get it on the road dave, come to japfest its not that far really from you. we can all finally put a face on you! cheers for the rep aswel mate.

I couldnt decide wether to wash it or drive it, I chose drive it lol

Finished work early today, the roads were dry fot the first time in an age, so I took it for a spin. Thats when it happened, I realised I ****ing love my zed! That is all. :) happy zed owner.

overdrive makes the car drive like crap round town when its on, taking it off on a roads turns it into an animal and turning it on on the motorway turn it into a lovely lazy cruiser.

Is this castle combe or the japfest reloaded or whatever they call it further up country?