Stephen

shit me

interesting stuff, expensive stuff for a bit of tubular steel.

I've had bilstiens on my car for the last year or so, the front set are about 30 odd mm lower than stock and im not quite sure about the rear its definatly lower than stock. the ride is pretty good not too hard and surprisingly its actually easier to get over the humps, I think because it rolls about less. anyways in the ideal world id like to upgrade to adjustable coilovers, however cash isn't overly flowing atm due to other comitments. so ive been exploring different avenues other than forking out £500 for coilovers. ive thought about second hand coilover units using s13/r32 but tbh that isn't anywhere near cheap enough to make it worth the secondhand risk etc etc. So companies such as whiteline produce lowering springs in pairs, with drops from 15-45mm here the confusing bit...without knowing the current drop how can I figure out how much id like to drop it, id like another 15mm I would of thought. so that's the main question what size spring do I need? bare in mind im not talking about cut down springs, im talking about springs manufactured at a lower rideheight.

Yeah theres plenty.of 350s about common as muck lol.

May be worth checking the connections are clean and good on the two iiavc connections.

May be worth asking if the rest of the zed family wanna get inolved. Get the numbers up :)

that zonda is beautiful inside! it looks like the submarine from hell boy. however the chap that designed the mirrors to be like that needs a slap!

pretty much yeah, the box internals are the same. its just the driveplates, ie flex plate or flywheel and the bell housing that vary. also the speed sensors are different.

that's because people use the end of their rachet to try and do it instead of buying the correct sized sump plug bit. Halfords do a little set of them for cheapish, may be easier with the right tool.

you could easy squeeze a 255 or stretch a 235 on there bud. and yeah sambo I mean the actual shock. I think they just don't rebound or hold properly. they are probably 20+ years old.

not to be a knob but you are trying to turn it the right way?

yes that lip is awesome :) - - - Updated - - - try changing your suspension struts, ive lowered mine and catch less bumps now than I did on stock setup because the stock ones were shagged.

I saw a very tidy bodykittedvred on in bath a little while back.

Sorry bloody phone 3mm, sits on the throttle body, part of the cc.

A slight drop and some spacers and that will be lovely.

I was wondering if you were going to be making an appearance. haven't actually seen your car, last time we met you brought martins(madmax) car with you to the bell.

I have those whels exactly like that but with a bit more dish on the rear.

Im not really sure what your asking but with some fettling all boxes will fit all engines.

Dont forget the ymm line on the throttlebody that goes to the cc aswel.

if you swap it off you wont have one to experiment on.

oh right didn't read that properly, yeah there is one there isn't there that goes down to the front, as you say think its for the bov. the carbon canister also goes up near there doesn't it? I cant remember, bothe those long lines wouldn't reach the balance bar on mine. as long as it gets to the plenum im not sure it matters.

cant say for sure but I recon its balls, unless you've got an ultralight full blown racecar.

do you mean the 4mm harline on the balance bar that goes to the little nut with a 4 mm take off just by the fuel filter? if so tahts the prv. have a look at robos300zx page it gives some good write ups of the vac lines etc.

the egr has three hardlines, two to the underside of the plenum and on from the manifold by the battery. and a vacline that runs from the unit to a solenoid on the wing on the brake master cylinder.

its suprising how fast a stock manual z feels when you've been driving euro boxes for weeks lol