Stephen

just get rid it freshens the car up so much not having that funny black line from 1989

isnt there another blue one in our neck of the woods in your area more so rob>?

Probally rob, did it have an aftermarket spoiler?

Have you got them bent up or folded down one of those them seen to jam on.

Well yeah I see your point but is part of a breatherr system thats not working 100% is it not. The pcv on the vg isnt the best as we know but thats a genera engine issue not a reason for tub failure I dont think, especially with the exhaust housing its so hot.

Any chance of a link mate zcrolling through on the phone is a pita.

Some of you may have picked up recently on my turbo failure, sadly I'm an eager beaver. So I went about wanting to know why the turbo seals, in particular, fail. essentially there are two seals, for the purposes of discussion we will call them front and rear. To define what I mean by this the front is the one pointing towards the front of the engine (cambelt end) the rear is obviously the opposite end which is the exhaust compressor end. The seals themselves sit in a recess on the turbo shaft and look very much like a piston ring. The rear one is the commonest one to fail, it seems for our turbos. The reason for this is over pressure from the oil side, causing it to go some where it was never intended. With decatted cars the area of low pressure behind the turbo at idle is an easy route out past the worn seal straight into the exhaust causing white/pale grey smoke, not blue. so this may be because your pcvs are not functioning correctly and are over pressurising the sump pan, this makes it difficult for the oil fed into the turbo to drain out via gravity as easy as it should, hence it finds its way out the shaft seal. Mine was odd in that it wouldn't smoke at idle but at 2k rpm smoke would pour out, this was because the passing oil was puddling up in the compressor housing (the snail shell) then when the flow built up out it came. Within the turbo you will find some small oil galleries that the oil drains out via gravity, in teh scenario where the car isnt run down properly or oil changed regularly enough the oil cokes up and blocks these galleries, causing the same issue as the pcvs ie an back up in oil within the housing. So next time some one says the reason your turbos failed and started smoking is because you decatted its not the whole picture, and this is why refitting them can mask worn seals, that backpressure at the cats will up the limit of pressure able to build up in the housing, before they leak. In situations where the seal isnt damaged simply refitting would sort the smoke, but you will still have a system that isnt running as intended. However replacing your pcs may go a long way further to solving the issue. One of the tubs I had as a spare the front one was leaking, all i can assume is that this one came from a car with cats and the easiest place to pass was the front one, or the seal itself had worn just like a piston ring. I chose to take the extra precaution, and fit both 360 degree bearings and stepped rear oil seals. the stepped rear oil seal is well pretty self explainatory it is stepped both sides to make a better seal. the 360 bearing we all discuss i found out are neither 360 degrees or a bearing. its actually a flat piece of metal 270 degrees to look at that the thrust bearing sits on. below is an exploded veiw so you can see what all the componets are and were they are. There isnt really much in there. the rear seal is number 5, and the thrust bearing is number 8 the front seal is located into this. and clips into the cover plate(number 11) to make the seal. and number 6 is that "bearing" in the stock shape, the 360 degree one looks like a D shape. The other common issue is oil starvation causing excessive wear on the bearings and subsequent failure or damage due to well not enough oil passing through the turbo. The bearings themselves are hydro statically filled, this is why you will get a small amount of play side to side but not forwards and backwards on the shaft when there is no oil pressure. Once the oil pressure increases it locks the shaft into suspension hydro statically. The bearings are labled 1 and held into the housing with the funny circlips labeled 2. there is also a retaining spring after the rear one on our turbos not the tab in this picture this was added later to make it easier, labled 4. If your thinking of doing a home rebuild the worst part is removing the massive circlip labled 15, the easiest way to do this is pry it out with some old flat blade screwdrivers. I also found removing the coverplate a little tricky with it being made of some kind of graphite it chips easily if you lever it, much better to grab the notch of it with some needle nose pliers and pull. once apart clean the housing thoroughly and check the mating surfaces of the seals very closley. Lastly and most importantly they MUST be balanced afterwards otherwise your wasting your time. They are spinning incredibly fast and a slight imbalance will rip them apart sooner than later. I hope this all helps explain some of the mysteries of what those snails contain and why they break, sorry for the poor English and if you have any questions if I can help I will do my best. I used CRturbos based in Hampshire for the rebuild kit and the balancing, Craig and the team there was very helpful and informative.

Its really not, you have 4 choices r33 gtr calipers, straight fit. Z33 calipers, drill out mounting hole to accomadate larger bolt, brembo evos, require a cixing bracket. Or d2/ksport kits. The hard bit is doing it on budjet. But the swap is easy.

I didnt fit it so ive no idea how the things wired, theres 4 cabl es s going into it.

right ive pulled the dash cluster out this morning and removed the speedo, had a good look over the solder joints in the light and they look pretty good, thinking back before i changed my speedo from the 300kph one i had the same issue its just got worse. anyways, i also looked at the speed sensor its all intact and not hanging out. the only thing i can think the problem is now is that the speed converter is junk. its spliced into the harness with bullet crimps. il be trying it out today to see what happens but yeah need to sort it really.

I posted up a link for you a week or so back to a chap on sxoc that does a package with the brackets discs braided lines etc.

my speedo has always been a bit intermittent, but now its duff. it will work occasionally if ive been stationary up to about 20mph, then it just drops off. then i get hicas warning and no powered steering. now ive read the articles about dry joint and all the rest but if i pull it all apart what exactly am i looking for with a "dry" joint? and do i just remelt it and add some more solder? i also read jeffs thread on the speed sensor popping out its cartridge, and causing the issue. but how do i check the actual functionality of the speed sensor?

mines doing the same, and i want it sorted before it causes problems but it seems to be coming out behind the plastic on the targa, the vynal covering is lifting with the wet.

Yeah I would expect it to be one or more of the little water pipes that go from the tubs, they also connect to the plenum and the hard parts rust. The layout is designed to allow convection current to passivly cool the turbo after shutdown, so the water in there moves slowly pulling heat away all that heat etc takes its toll and the rubber perishes. Remove yojr battery and zhine a torch down the back you will be able to see them.

Theres plenty about, its worth soaking up as much zed knowledge as possible before you take the plundge. And going out in one or two to see whatva healthy one feels like

if you google them you will see some drastic differences in the calliper looks wise, the brembo calliper is bigger and more solid looking for starts and there are different marking on them. make sure its off an r33 or 34 i nearly got stung like this the r32 gtr has near on the same breaks as us.

2k to pull the block rebuild the tubs and service the engine cambelt etc is very cheap mate, but id be cautious over their experience level with the car.

what apart of hampshire are you in im in bournemouth with a few other members and theres a few your way now, if i can be any help in choosing acar to you let me know.

I backed outta going through a puddle today after watching the landy infront get water half way up.its doors!

pop the targa out and you will see some drain hole sin the inlayed metal. get a jug of water and pour that down the hole, you should see a dribble coming out the sill, front and rear depending on the hole you put it in. so that first things first, the second thing is to check that the square piece in the corner is still seated properly most are not esp if the cars been touched up or resprayed, this allows water to pass through into the cabin. futher more and more obviously you may notice like mine a dribble that runs down the window where the rubber is squashed and no longer firmly presses against the window. - - - Updated - - - vaseline is petrolem based and will deteroate rubber, silicone is a far better alternative.

this is really starting to get into the nitty gritty of what i wanted and giving me some things to take away and learn on my own. im becoming progressively more interested as each day passes in they way a car works not just mechanically but design wise why things are built how they are and how changes we make change things for the better or worse sometimes. i also totally agree that the car is generally better than the driver, certainly to push my zed even though its near stock on a public road would be pushing on beyond the boundaries of whats legal and driving it on its limit would be about my current level of skill, im just a normal person not a race car driver. i think ultimately what i want to achieve is a car that is comparably as controlled and grippy through the bends as a modern sports car like the z34 or similar, my car has no quams in catching most things in a straight line but the corners that make me loose confidence in it. i also want to take the car out on track a few times this coming year to actually be able to drive it properly without fear of loosing my license which i depend on for work, without being slower than something like an stock mx5 or boyed up focus, i dont really have any experiences in terms of this so i really dont know what my car is capable of in comparison to others. in reality though its not about racing i just want the car to feel liek a solid and controllable machine not an axe murder that will wrap me round the closet tree at a hint of damp.

the current setup ive got is tyres: front falken 452s 225x30x18 rear perelli pzero 265x30x18 the shocks are bilstien with ebiach spings witha 30 front drop 20mm rear drop. few polybushes here and there but not everywere, the hicas i think is a big weak link in my car the rear feel rather floaty. in terms of a fast road car set up are aftermarket camber arms necessary ? srry for the sp

i think your getting on the answer here technology of bushes etc the compouns they are made of has moved on, but even replacing with oenm wiuld make a massive duifference but its pushing teh car beyond what it was orginally capable of is where my mind is puzzling.

i dont really see the point in terms of components they are very similar in design simply purchasing or adjusting shocks and springs that match your requirements will be just as effective.

I did day aside from weight I actually dont think its that heavy comparitivly the z3y is just as heavy and the average sloon these daus is def heavier