Stephen

I saw a silver one broken down on the hard shoulder near there few months back. I’ve seen two different white Z32s today.

Time will tell Joel. Once you start adding roll etc into things it changes. I’ve hacked the front arch liners and rolled the rears pretty heavily. I’ve seen lower though...

Yeah it’s incredibly aggressive. When I first put the wheels on I was really worried about hitting the arch, on full droop I had about 25-30mm of protrusion. That pulled in and initially the rear was so low that half the tyre wall was in the arch and the mid section of the exhaust was mm from the gravel, at that stage it rubbed. I brought it up an inch where I wanted it and my maths was bang on with fag paper clearance. I know my camber is effectively zero so once I dial in just over a degree it should all come together nicely. Real world vs hard parking is the test though and I’d be quite happy to add another 10mm all around for driving quality. I’ve rolled it around and other than noisey it seems ok. Gotta book it in for an MOT now.

Il leave this here;

Sounds good to me. Although I’d pop them Cams out, there’s not much work left to do that and the timings compromised anyway. That way the valves will all be closed and you can rotate the bottom end independently and perform a leak down. Soon be obvious if esp on the inlet a valve is banana shaped.

Well done mate. These things take time.

I think I have the medium which is t quite big enough.

125-135psi is a touch on the low side I’m afraid Art. 150psi would be more in keeping. That said it’s the difference between each cylinder that is informative and a blanket average is less useful, obviously you have no way to know about how well the test was executed either. If the car doesn’t smoke I wouldn’t worry too much.

Iirc and it’s been a while, that inch allows you to come forward before you lift and gives the clearance. I’m sure looking at it it will be obvious if that is the case. If your talking about the steering column Ali, those four bolts half way up are a pain to do with the engine out ey alone in.

Have you dropped the subframe by an inch or so?

It’s a pain in the ass. Why do you need it off?

The Halfords one has been fine for me too, they do a few types in different sizes. The cheaper blue one is crap, the more expensive grey breathable thing is better. Make sure you buy a big enough one, I brought one size too small and whilst it fits it’s very snug and has torn.

I wouldn’t say mine smells of fuel tbh Joel.

I think there’s details in my build thread of the indicator mod. Wasn’t hard. I left the washer bottle.

Cheers for sorting this out Howard.

For a link to the video?

It’s just such a shame they aren’t a bolt in affair (well they are), it’s not a case of if your not keen switch back etc it’s a complete rear end swap. Obviously there’s the leader gears but that’s not exactly cheap.

Just done mine. FJ renewal, £680! Just insured with Lancaster, £290. Monthly it’s like £25 no complaints from me on a car with a mod list longer than a Chinese takeaway menu.

Well done Greg. Bargain!

Heater blower sorted, Brakes bled, Just got to reassemble the dash, wheels on, on the floor and torque up the strut tops. Then it’s MOT time! But wait, one hick up still... the rad has a tiny pin prick in one of the cores. I suppose it’s lasted 10 years nearly but still. Grr. Not the end of the world but none the less it’s an item on the list.

A mate popped round today after work and we went through mapping the 12v signals from fuse box female connection M11. Then the same with the harness male. After discovering a 12v supply to earth, dead short with my new tool we then applied live to each 12v connection to see what lit up, in short (no pun intended) none of it. Odd. What we’d found frustrating is that the colour codes on the manual and the fuse box don’t match up. A cup of tea later and he was musing about connecting blocks, I explained that they are all different configurations and can’t be crossed over, so we decided just in case to inspect the fuse box. At this point something became clear terminal block M11 and E106 ARE the same shape. Not getting ahead of ourselves we applied 12v to the pins that correspond and the dash lit up where it should. Putting my big boys pants on and proceeding with caution with this new found evidence I reassembled it all and powered up. And.....drum roll, SORTED! So the original fault was quite rightly the aftermarket relay failed and then I assembled the fuse box with two terminals mixed, ones on the front and one on the rear so it’s not a glance the solution issue. Thank Christ for that!

Pretty sure they are the same as the Jspspeed ones I have. Bit of fettling to fit but yeah they fit pretty easy. From the reviews I’ve read they are an improvement over stock but not on a par with say Ash spec ones etc. If they’re cheap, get them.

NM that! Fancy seeing you here!

Ratchet spanner from above is my preference.

Be interesting what they make of that come MOT time, the guy that did mine last maimed enough about it being “noisy” as it was. :lol: