Stephen

2 bar! No wonder your seals are leaking, 5 psi is all you need as per the FSM. Or did you mean 2 psi?

Cheers bud, il add you once I'm home. On holiday ATM so no proper internet.

Isn't there an '0' ring on the Vtc solenoid? How bad is this boost leak? The only reason I ask is you won't actually be effected by this on boost. The PCV valve closes and reverses airflow through the breather system, when on boost so the air is passively vented through the front ones on the cam cover, it's not sucked out or anything by force. Try as Brian says getting some spray on leaky area on the engine whilst idling and see if the revs rise. If they don't it probably isn't actually a concern. When your boost leak testing what psi are you testing at? You could be causing the leak by adding an excessive amount of pressure to the system. In theory under normal running conditions those seals should never see more than like 1psi of positive pressure, off boost they're experiencing say 5 to 7 psi negative pressure.

It also allows you to take more than one bird out at a time. Three Infact, helps up your chances. Conversely once tied down the argument of your car is useless for a baby it doesn't even have rear seats is automatically shifted onto petrol costs or safety. :) also my trotting rod wouldn't fit in a swb :D and taking the zed fishing is a great excuse to hoon down empty country roads at 4am.

Stop messing around and drop an LS motor in your slicktop.

In the process of redoing the entire suspension setup ;)

That's because the chassis is the same until the b Pillar aside from the fact that the roof pitch is different to come down earlier for the few difference in length. The remaining difference is in the rear bumper itself which is extended for some reason.

I bet that sump was smelly, that oil looks shitty as hell.

Yeah I misread that gtx2860r those are bloody nice turbos rich and I expect you will gain some very strong and usable boost from them. Previous statement stands, 540-560

Ah right, it's something I have to address as the limiting factor brakes wise for me will soon become the grip up front (even the stock brakes can lock up at 60 odd) rather than the calliper, it seems sensible to add more grip to the better brakes but I don't want to go too large and turn it into a blood hound, as mine is a road car first and foremost.

In the process of doing mine mate, I've got jaffas old rear end which is already polybushed and solid mounts etc which really reduces labour. Just stripping it down to power cost the frame carrier etc. even that's been fiddly, deprecating the lower arm from the hub is a dick.

I think age is more a factor really, all rubber and rubber compounds rot over time. The z is a heavy powerful car, so there's a lot of stress on these components. Front tension rods seem to suffer badly. It all depends what you want out the car, it will likely be safe if they look good, however will you get the most out of it? That's a different question.

Do you guys have issues with the cars tracking on rough surfaces at those widths up front, some tracks are obviously less perfect than others or on road if it ever makes it onto a public road?

I think you answered your own question, there old with 85k miles on them they won't be in tip top shape.

No, just the upper plenum comes off. The lower plenum can be left in place. There's no need to even remove the cam belt covers iirc. If those rocker gaskets need doing and that water pipe it's going to be significantly easier to do it with the plenum off. I've done the passenger side heater matrix hard pipe in situee before myself and it wasn't fun, how you do the drivers side I'd be interested as I swear it bolts up down the front? Off the water pump or something. It's been a while.

I may well be part of the CC system, I seem to remember it going through there.

I think the hybrid system will wonders mate, I heard Ash has been experimenting with the very same lawn mover.

I think you will find that Jaffa has or has had them all round, obviously testing them beyond the norm.

I'll tell you what, without any brown nosing that having met both bri(znut) and jimmer and I can honestly say they're both bloody nice blokes. There are people in this community out for themselves and people who are genuinely helpful and friendly, these two are defiantly the latter.

Oooo please do a lift off front :) how was the removal of the bonnet support simple yet effective.

Mine did exactly this. Because there was no fluid and we were rolling along at 70mph the temp stayed normal. Soon as the speed dropped the temp gauge shot up and thevsteam was viewable, no coolant left really. I let it cool right down fixed the leak (a turbo coolant line) and refilled it and burped the system, no harm done. Start by checking the bores for fluid, and for oil contamination. Then rotate it by hand then try compression testing etc. You might, might get lucky.

I didn't know he had mapped a gt2560r equipped car? Just the clarify any confusion, these are often called gt28r and were fitted to s15 Silvia's. The kits is the one labeled by Z1 as the gt600r kit. 450 can be pulled out of stock turbos and 500 out of gt525s which are much less efficient and smaller, so I'd definatly expect to break 500fwhp.

I would I would say 540-560fwhp there good tubs but I recon you might need breather mods to get more than the mid 500s out of it.

Yeah the pics look good, I take it your up for it gaz? Anyone else got any input?

Watching eagerly as I'm in a similar boat, I need my license for work so I have to be extra careful. To that end it seems sensible to find a way to be able to have legal fun in my zed without crucifying the bank account. That's why I'm overhauling my chassis and breaking, to make the car as usable as possible and get the base right for the power hike when I can afford it. (Getting married next June so not this winter haha) Track days, quarters and auto solo events are all on my wish list of things to try.