Stephen

Because you have money to burn and get bored easy because your spoilt? Or because your not loaded, paid for it on credit cards and now HAVE to sell it? There the most common two reasons if were honest.

Hi, my dad had an rx8 the 231hp one. It had all the optional extras full factory aero kit etc, he drove that car back and forth from bournemouth to derby every week and regularly through France. It was reliable but very thirsty often as bad as 16mpg on average low 20s at best and having worked on it for him it was a bit poorly made tbh. I raced it a few times and walked by it every time, I've raced the lower spec one as well which was truthfully poor. Onto zeds, your not going to gain a lot in fuel economy at best you could get 30 to the gallon out of it, it's more likely you will get 25 on a long cruise. Round town significantly less. When it breaks which it will eventually unless you buy one with a lot spent on it parts arnt cheap or easy to get your mits on. Mechanics than will or are experienced are far and few between. Don't get me wrong it's a strong 3l v6 but it's also upto 25 years old, it's verging on a classic car. If you want a daily z the z33 aka the 350z is about a grand more to buy but much more modern and reliable for everyday use. Also being non turbo it's less complex. Sure it's not as tunable or fast out the box but it's a better daily driver. Lots of research to be done. If you really want Japan's orginal super coupe then dive in they are awesome. Be prepared to spend a few quid though, bargain ones are few and far between.

Is this rattle cans or a compressor?

Just to highlight this as well, screamer pipes are different althogether. They vent the air from the Wastegate to astmosphere bypassing the exhaust. So that air is unsilenced and unmuffled etc, ie attracts Johnny law. Doing it on a zed is also slightly odd as they have turbos with internal wastegates, meaning it's part of the turbo not a seperate device. So whilst you can do it, it's a bodge and air will exscape before boost is built. The noise is subjective too.

Sat on a sofa looking across a valley with a cuppa tea in otterham Cornwall, near bude.

Atmospheric dumps are bad for engine health and are an old fashioned way to do the job, especially when combined with a map sensor system such as ours. A recirc is always better. I know the dumps I've got are a bad idea, I recon my engine will die of abuse first though lol. Once I've had a rebuild il switch them out.

Did you read the post Andrew put up from Greg?

Personally I'd spend a whole week ripping useless crap and cables out that car hoping that the money I got from selling it all would help respray it. It could be a bloody nice car at present though it's not too my tastes. It's pretty restrictive in its market because of its styling.

The whole thing, before after and during.

Yes and no, I think that's an old fashioned thing before recircs were much cop or even fitted in the main. A properly functional recircs will keep the turbo spinning through the gear shift and this in turn reduces lag and lessens the chance of loosing the boost mid change. They are FAR superior hence why you will never see a modern super car hissing down the road.

Iirc one isn't a blanket at all it houses a spring that moderates pressure in the system.

I quite like that noise. I had the goose honk issue, sounded ridiculous. So I got a pair of baileys cost me about £100 I think all in, maybe less to fit them. I call them my angry budgies. At low boost they cheep and higher boost they hiss. I did it because it was fun, I kept a set of working recircs incase I got bored, changed my mind etc but I do enjoy the woosh sound especially down tree or stone lines a roads as it echoes off at full boost.

I think we will find the answer to that out before we have to ask that question.

So it's not the casual fit people make out? Lol

See I have seen Simons car, mad maxes car and a few others that have some dollar spent in them. Z32s are bloody expensive to do much to, 10k falls into a z32 and doesn't even touch the sides often. I'm not sure how much gas gone into mine, it's far from perfect and I know there's more money in it that id like to admitt.

Start at the beginning and work forward. Pull all the plugs, have a good look and listen to the bores, you can turn the engine over by hand whilst doing this. It should sound smooth and you should be able to hear each piston. If they all turn nicely and nothing horrid happens, then do a compression test cold. You will need a fully charged battery. If that passes, plugs in. Fluids topped up, check for visible leaks and fix as required. You've cooked old pipes twice now and the next weakest link is likely to have popped. Get that sorted get it circulating and bled out. Get hold of consult or similar and watch the water temp here as the engine warms up to operational temperature. Keep a close eye of those hoses for leaks etc as it gets hot and pressure builds. After that you can begin problem solving. It's possible you will fail before this, but keep you head level and start from the beginning. You've covered your engine in steaming hot coolant now, it won't have made it happy. What concerns me is the exhaust vapours. Btw you could potentially run the tubs without coolant lines it wouldn't kill them that quick.

That explains the lack of hicas etc, it seems quite unusual to get true twin turbo slicktops, usually the original owner would pay for t tops before turbos.

Pretty sure it comes with the fly as well as a package

You won't know exactly what you will need till he tears it down bud, the bearings etc will have to be brought to spec after the crankvetc has been machined and checked. I'm sure he will go through it all with you very soon and then the ball can start rolling.

It's worth checking the bell housing isn't full of oil, the rear main seal can cause the clutch to get oily and slip.

Twin turbo slicktop? Very nice

Still waiting for vtec to kick in then lol

;)

Hrm fine il give my permission. :p

Is it supposed to be Matt black?