Stephen

Sorry I completely misread what you asked there. Partly the same answer applies though, to vent the system equally.

This isn't fact it's just how I understand it. It's because as Jaikai says, the system is in two halves and its to increase equalisation. Often when people switch to an EBC etc they do just what your supposing, to T the connections. If you do this you must be careful to firstly not make the lines too long as this can cause funny results and secondly that the two lines are of equal size, both in terms of length and diameter. If you unduly restrict one line over another your going to delay the waste gate opening. This is what your doing with a boost controller or boost jets, causing a restriction to trick the waste gate into seeing less pressure and opening later.

Well done guys the cars look superb. Congrats vig for joining club married.

Your doing well mate. I was over gaz's last week before he sent them out. Gear knob looks bonza.

Potatoes.

Yeah, genuines are cheap enough, K&N etc, just reputable brands. Fairly sure last time I brought a genuine one from Nissan it was like a tenner.

Have a read, the paper part has a habit of disintegrating and killing your engine, amongst other things.

Have you read about those Fram filters? If not I suggest you do, I recon it will be coming off. Surprising how much power steering fluid there is in the system isn't it?

At the end of the day it's a car, a toy car at that for most of us. There's no race against anybody but your own patience. Take it easy, take the time to think, evaluate and tinker with low cost/ free things that are simply time consuming. You will get a better end project taking your time than going hell for leather anyway.

I really don't get why people change the wheel. The series 1 wheel is a good looking, simple and classic design. Very few aftermarket wheels look at home, infact I can't think of any. They normally look too modern or too old. - - - Updated - - - IMHO of corse.

That rear quarter window says s13 to me...

It's one of a series of small pipes and hardliners that form the throttle body coolant lines and turbo coolant lines. There a rain pain to do in situee. You should be able to just replace the hose with some coolant hose from the motor factors, not much point ordering the specific bit.

Well done mate. Give it a damn good flush out. Might be worth running the new oil for 100 miles then draining it again if it's really bad in there.

You can split the diff down to its raw case etc, however do you want to? It's a fairly labour intensive exercise to paint it. Rebuilding it fully is nice but again, do you want to? The R230 diff is a though mother, it's also worth more in scrap so replacement isn't an issue. I simply removed the cover, cleared any sludge then wire wheeled the lot painting the diff with a few good coats of hammerite. The early drift works bushes had issues but I think that's been resolved. ES poly bushes offer a full kit for the z32 and are very popular. Unless you plan to track the car and except it won't be very forgiving of stick with the poly diff and sub mounts. I have solid for both, infact everything going. It handles lovely but it's very unforgiving. Good luck. It would be worth borrowing or buying a good impact gun. The hub carriers, hub nuts etc are very tight. You will find it difficult to undo them by hand. Oh and don't be tempted to knock the drive shafts out with a lump hammer, you will knacker the threads. A rubber mallet is a much gentler way. Make sure you take the opportunity to clean up behind the frame, reseal etc.

I have some set thoughts on the current system, a lot of the wrong people are in prison and a lot of people are allowed to get away with stuff for too long. The application of the law of the land is inconsistent and heavy handed in areas it shouldn't and non existent where it should. It's become about stats and money rather than public interest. Don't forget your guilty until you prove your innocence. If you can't prove you didn't do it and there's political interest no matter how pathetic your stuffed. Enjoy your stay because your life is ruined when you write 2014-2020 HMP blah blah.

I'm just chasing my tail. The body is/was good. The tubs failed, I rebuilt then, then the engine failed I swapped it, now I've got another turbo failed. Its so annoying and expensive. I just want to drive the damn thing, without plumes of smoke intermittently arising.

What's the fluid like? Is it still pink? Or has it gone brown?

Replaced the drivers side turbo banjo bolt, it was wrong. So for the last two years I've been over pressurising that turbo with oil. Took it for a test drive, I can honestly say that it's currently no better. Really sick of this car now. Driving it is embarrassing.

Is it the same torque converter mate? This is why I just converted to manual the autobox is menace.

The stock wheels complemented with some spacers to stop the wheels looking so sunk in, look great. If only they were even an inch bigger in diameter I would of kept them. The improvement in ride quality on them with decent tyres is quite noticeable between a then and an 18/19" wheel imo, much more comfort.

Oh you gotta love stuff like that! The five minute job that becomes a three hour task because of one pissy little bolt etc.

Did you not have the little drilled and threaded holes on the disc hub? Wind a bolt in and off the pop? Or were they that seized?

Expect to import, expect to pay too much. That's the current scenario.

Man power mate, just pull she.

A good quality semi synthetic 10-40w is what I and most others choose to use. A lot of companies sell oil in 4L containers these days and one of those is enough, unless you have a large cooler and empty this too. The stock system holds a measly 3.5L of oil, hence the need esp in turbo models to change it regularly. Don't forget when you get the filter to get a replacement copper washer, otherwise the sump plug will likely leak. Alternatively and my preference is buy an aftermarket magnetic sump plug. Not only do they collect metal shavings and let you in on extra info they also stick to the pan instead of falling straight in the oil drip tray.