Stephen

Lol, finding that 5 seconds each day is very stressful il have you know!

I couldn't commit myself to this either. I've been slightly slacker than I would have like this years with REO duties without further NEO works. Unfortunately work is getting steadily busier and with family planning hopes its just something couldn't attend to properly.

I really like the stock wheel, the simplicity of it pleases me. Ok it looks a bit old hat in comparison to a modern car wheel but then I don't like the bulky nature of most wheels. It looks correct and period, because it is.

Well done mate. If I'm correct that's not its first nomination either but it is its first award? It's a very clean car, maybe you will be more tempted to keep it now lol.

I live in cider :lol:

To my mind the north which begins with the midlands, starts at the m4. But then that's my southern mind, as the crow flies 5 miles more South and il be very wet!

This might be worth a read mate if you've not done it before; http://www.thumper300zx.com/z32/boostleaks/boost_leak_guide.htm I appreciate what your saying Jeff and as I said 99/100 it's likely fine. However when the manual says to do it a set way and many of the best minds in the business agree why take the risk? You wouldn't just make up a bolt torque so why make up a test level? I bow to your experience and if you or others feel comfortable doing it that way, that's fine but il keep following the advice laid out by the FSM and several big names in the zed game, certainly I wouldn't recommend to deliberately not follow those intrusions. I'm sure you can understand this.

No the 77/78 is my favourite bri, I do like the later one though. I also like the earlier ones, aside from one blip, 74 -76 I think it is the square head lights phase that followed the bull nose cars, which look great. In fact I love firebirds/trans ams & camaros. I very nearly brought a gen 3 a few years back and often start looking at them when I'm pissed off with the zed.

I'm sure you would get away with it 99/100 or even higher but I wouldn't want to strip the front end off the engine for a cam seal, or removing the gearbox and flywheel blah blah for the crank seal. Not worth the risk imo.

Your definitely not in the southwest, or even the south really. I would class Luton as up North personally but I suppose in reality it's South East Midlands? It's out of the M25 so it's not really London.

You should, should stick to 5 psi. As you say though leaks do appear higher at times which is frustrating. The trouble is if you start putting much more than 5psi though it your going to risk popping oil seals out, apparently the cam seals are a favourite for this. This because the crank case becomes pressurised in the process with the stock PCV system. You might get people tell you you can put loads more through the system and they test it at 15psi, that's fine and they are welcome to carry on, if and when it goes wrong they will stop doing it. The 5psi is recommended by the FSM and its that for a reason.

It's kinda rare to end up talking cars at a car show like that. You may get a little chat here and there based around the little tweaks you do, the only time you end up discussing stuff like engine components is places like here. It's heavy conversation if there's no reason behind it. If you want to get conversations started you've gotta be different.

My two favourite cars, is that an 79 or an 80 trans am?

There are a few sr20 engined Zebs about. However you get more HP and torque stock from a VG30dett, chip and boost increase on a VG will see you over what most SR boys churn out with a much longer mod list. Infact it might surprise you but the VG makes more power than the RB mod for mod. Not to mention the RB suffers its own issues. To switch out the VG on a zed requires something thought out. We all know packing is a restraint and that's the main advantage of an RB engined zed. You either swap to something cheaper to extract power from like the RB of JZ blocks or you go out and fit something that provides gobs of power from the off in a naturally aprisrated form such as an LS motor. I'm all for swaps, but a swap is rarely easy or cheap, in fact normally the opposite. I'm not saying the VG is king of engines, there's definitely better, however you need a damn good reason to change it. Especially when your removing a motor than makes 300hp stock and has had people run over 700hp on stock internals.

I would have agreed with you when I first looked at them Jeff but I've been running them for a few years now without issue. They are a very simple non return valve and that function which is what matters works. The opening and closing of the PCV is far in a way controlled by engine vacuum/boost it would work without a spring full stop. Same as the non returns on the clutch and brake booster.

Check compression first and foremost mate. Also does your exhaust contain a H or X pipe? There is a documented set of cases where running two single lines causes smoke at idle. The school of though is that the frequency causes a sort of sucking or pumping effect on the rear seals of the turbo. I have a suggestion for you which I will PM as its a touch unorthodox.

It doesn't matter how exactly they spring. It's just a non return valve. It's function is to allow crankcase gasses to be scavenged and keep crank case pressure as low as possible whilst in negative boost or vacuum situations. It is then to close once positive pressure is applied to the manifold to stop boost or positive pressure being applied to the crank case and oil galleries. At that point the system is reversed with excessive pressure going out the intake cm cover vents. The issue is especially with turbo cars, excessive crank case pressure by which I mean not a lot, distrupts the ability to drain oil efficiency allowing oil to pass into the exhaust and causing smoke, more technically steam as the oil evaporates. If you have excessive crank case pressure you will most certainly suffer from smoke esp with a free flowing exhaust. So all they need to do is pass air from the hose joiner end to the threaded end and stop flow when the reverse is applied. Put it to your lips and blow check the functionality of it as a non return. If it fails permanently open or closed its duff. If, if the PCV is functioning correctly and you still have smoke it's not the PCV. Checking compression and the vacuum readings on the oil galleries throughout the Rev range should reveal the cause. Unless of course the turbo is what is at fault. What kind of smoke are you experiencing mate?

Has it not got a set down section in the exhaust?

Sounds like a great trip. Look forward to the pictures.

Crack on a fit it then. :phone:

They are pretty different, I think it's all about the fuel tank.

It's very much worth while removing all the guff, it's a lot less confusing and less cluttered. The the carbon canister is a bit annoying and hard to follow. The main thing is that you get the important stuff connected and create an air tight system. I actually went through and replaced ALL the remaining vac lines on mine.

Ah right. Also the one from them is potentially aluminium as well? The Ali ones weigh nothing in comparison. It's worth having a chat with Jimmer though, by the time you factor in the tax and delivery theres a good chance it will be cheaper through him.

That's a U.S. Spec car that's why. Probably left by service personnel.

Doh! Is there not enough left to heat then wind out with mole grips?